Seeking Success Stories with Anthias

[kboogie]

I love anthias! Prior to my crash last year I successfully kept several Lyertail, Bimacs, Squarebacks, and Red Line anthias all together for a long time. I had three to five of each in my 300G FOWLR. I've been trying to restock and starting with Bimacs because they are my favorites. I get them in groups of six or more and only females. In the past, I would foolishly add them directly to my display tank. We all know that is a terrible thing to do and having lived through the negative ramifications of no QT I'm not living that life anymore. I'm struggling to get my anthias through QT. I typically lose one or two during QT and then I get down to a quantity of anthias where the aggression becomes concentrated, resulting in losing all but one or, in my case, all of them.

On the surface, it feels like I just need to order larger batches (10+), but I was wondering what others were doing to get their anthias through quarantine?

 

[Dan_P]

I love anthias! Prior to my crash last year I successfully kept several Lyertail, Bimacs, Squarebacks, and Red Line anthias all together for a long time. I had three to five of each in my 300G FOWLR. I've been trying to restock and starting with Bimacs because they are my favorites. I get them in groups of six or more and only females. In the past, I would foolishly add them directly to my display tank. We all know that is a terrible thing to do and having lived through the negative ramifications of no QT I'm not living that life anymore. I'm struggling to get my anthias through QT. I typically lose one or two during QT and then I get down to a quantity of anthias where the aggression becomes concentrated, resulting in losing all but one or, in my case, all of them.

On the surface, it feels like I just need to order larger batches (10+), but I was wondering what others were doing to get their anthias through quarantine?

I am afraid I don’t have any useful information. I was wondering whether heavier feeding might bring down the aggression? It seemed to for Green Chromis.

 

[areefer01]

I am afraid I don’t have any useful information. I was wondering whether heavier feeding might bring down the aggression? It seemed to for Green Chromis.

I do not think it will hurt although it seems to go against the grain as it relates to those wanting to keep lower nutrients.

I have successfully kept 4 Pink Square Anthias for almost three years now. I recently lost one of which I do not know why. My best guess is that after some reef restructuring I recently performed it retreated and injured itself in the process and subsequently died. The area I was working on is also the area they retreat and sleep. They are pretty sizeable and fast swimmers so that is my best guess but of course I really don't know. I do know there are no pests or disease or pathogens in my display. So now I'm left with 3.

I feed my display hourly between 0830 and 1830 dry using an auto feeder. I mix up several different types such has Hikari A, S, herbivore, PE mysis, TDO x-small, and small. Small portions, 2 drum rotations each time. Larger fish hit the larger pellets first the smaller ones get caught in the current, float around, and the smaller fish can get that. I do this thinking there are enough feedings that someone will always get something regardless of fish location and/or size. Seems to work and I honestly do not care about nutrients.

I feed frozen once or twice. One feeding happens in the evening always. I rotate through LRS Reef, Fish, Live Aquaria plankton, Live Aquaria Mysis and Brine combo, PE Calanus, and prime reef. Sometimes I will do a feeding in the morning but it isn't always a sure thing.

I feel a fish with a full belly is less aggressive. I also feel that they are less likely to nip at corals and misbehave with said full belly. I don't know but this is what works for me.

I attempted 5 Lyretail Anthias but didn't have much luck. Infighting due to a couple transitioning at the same time mixed in with a possible pathogen or parasite I missed. Beautiful fish but I won't try those again as it seems I didn't have the right number combination. Having a couple transition at the same time was pretty chaotic. That or I didn't have a large enough display.

I had success with Bartlett's back around 1999 / 2000 time frame but lost them with my display due to my lack of planning. One thing I remember is that I had a difficult time keeping their natural color. I didn't have their diet right I don't think. Fully bodied though but dull in color if that makes sense. I do not believe I was feeding as heavy as I do now.

TL; DR - seeing Anthias in the wild as a scuba diver they are constantly eating. In fact many of the fish on the various reef crests I've been to the fish are eating, bickering, foraging, and being naughty. I figured it can't hurt in a reef tank at home so that is the route I've gone. When all else fails feeding more makes me happy.

Here are my Biota Pink Squares for reference:

 

[Dan_P]

I do not think it will hurt although it seems to go against the grain as it relates to those wanting to keep lower nutrients.

I have successfully kept 4 Pink Square Anthias for almost three years now. I recently lost one of which I do not know why. My best guess is that after some reef restructuring I recently performed it retreated and injured itself in the process and subsequently died. The area I was working on is also the area they retreat and sleep. They are pretty sizeable and fast swimmers so that is my best guess but of course I really don't know. I do know there are no pests or disease or pathogens in my display. So now I'm left with 3.

I feed my display hourly between 0830 and 1830 dry using an auto feeder. I mix up several different types such has Hikari A, S, herbivore, PE mysis, TDO x-small, and small. Small portions, 2 drum rotations each time. Larger fish hit the larger pellets first the smaller ones get caught in the current, float around, and the smaller fish can get that. I do this thinking there are enough feedings that someone will always get something regardless of fish location and/or size. Seems to work and I honestly do not care about nutrients.

I feed frozen once or twice. One feeding happens in the evening always. I rotate through LRS Reef, Fish, Live Aquaria plankton, Live Aquaria Mysis and Brine combo, PE Calanus, and prime reef. Sometimes I will do a feeding in the morning but it isn't always a sure thing.

I feel a fish with a full belly is less aggressive. I also feel that they are less likely to nip at corals and misbehave with said full belly. I don't know but this is what works for me.

I attempted 5 Lyretail Anthias but didn't have much luck. Infighting due to a couple transitioning at the same time mixed in with a possible pathogen or parasite I missed. Beautiful fish but I won't try those again as it seems I didn't have the right number combination. Having a couple transition at the same time was pretty chaotic. That or I didn't have a large enough display.

I had success with Bartlett's back around 1999 / 2000 time frame but lost them with my display due to my lack of planning. One thing I remember is that I had a difficult time keeping their natural color. I didn't have their diet right I don't think. Fully bodied though but dull in color if that makes sense. I do not believe I was feeding as heavy as I do now.

TL; DR - seeing Anthias in the wild as a scuba diver they are constantly eating. In fact many of the fish on the various reef crests I've been to the fish are eating, bickering, foraging, and being naughty. I figured it can't hurt in a reef tank at home so that is the route I've gone. When all else fails feeding more makes me happy.

Here are my Biota Pink Squares for reference:

Those are gorgeous creatures

 

[Reginald Reefer III]

Have had 0 luck with any type of Anthias even if they are fed 6-7 times a day. All of them have either died in the first 1-2 days or died within 1-2 weeks. Never longer than that. :(

 

[Miami Reef]

The issue in my case is uronema. They aren’t only dying in my QT, the LFS themselves are having uronema with them.

I wrongfully assumed formalin baths would be the magical cure to at least get me a few in my display.

Looks like the uronema is internal by the time I buy the anthias. I only bought the clean looking ones in hopes I could prevent the ciliate.

 

[gbroadbridge]

I put about 10 anthias in my 75 gal 3 years ago.

The 2 that remain are going great :cool:

 

[JGT]

Have 3-5 each of various Anthias: lyretails, dispars, bartletts, bimacs, red bars. Have them for about 5 years. Put them all thru QT but I use hybrid TTM, not copper. Seems to work pretty well for Anthias with minimal losses.
Once in the DT, I find you need to have a lot of rock where they can hide and allows them to get away from any bullying and feel safe. That’s where they sleep as well. Feeding is nothing out of the ordinary. Twice a day a mix of frozen and flakes/pellets.

 

[56longroof]

Have you looked into buying pre quarantined fish? I just got 10 Ignitus anthias from Dr Reefs and they are doing great.

 

[jonelder68]

I got 3 ignitus Anthias from local pet store. They do TTM for them. I lost 1 within first 48 hours. Wasn’t eating. Thought it was uronema as it had a red spot but I now believe it was an injury/puncture. The other 2 have been happy for last 2 months and are very fat/healthy fish. I feed 2-3 times dry food mixes while at work with avast plank auto feeder. Then will feed frozen foods and fish/lobster eggs. 2-3 times when I’m home.

I really love them! Becoming one of my favorite fish. So I just ordered 3 more female ignitus from Dr. Reef.

Going with that…Dr. Reef does full QT before shipping. But even with that they’ve said sources are really bad for Anthias right now and uronema is a real problem. So even with QT being performed they suggest observation/isolation tank for 2 weeks before adding to DT. So that’s what I’ll be doing.

 

[jonelder68]

Have you looked into buying pre quarantined fish? I just got 10 Ignitus anthias from Dr Reefs and they are doing great.

That’s why I’m waiting on my order now :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:

 

[56longroof]

I'm like you. I think they are my favorites in the tank.

 

[Miami Reef]

I'm like you. I think they are my favorites in the tank.

I’m ready to buy it from him. Did you add them directly to the tank?

 

[TheCoralCurator]

Avast Marine makes a great auto feeder called "The Plank" - https://www.avastmarine.com/products/autofeeder

We've found it to be helpful in keeping up with the feeding requirements for Anthias.

 

[56longroof]

I’m ready to buy it from him. Did you add them directly to the tank?

Yes. I don't have the time to set up another tank. Everything I've got from them has been doing awesome.

 

[Griev]

I've had a dozen or so Lyretails for about 3 years now in my 200 gallon reef. Three keys imo;

1. Make sure they're healthy and eating when you buy and at a minimum observe for 48 hours in a QT tank.
2. Feed at least 3x a day. Just enough so everyone gets some to minimize food based aggression.
3. Have enough of them to ensure the normal male charging behavior is spread out enough not to stress any individual fish to death. In the wild the M/F ratio is 30-50/1 so if you only have 2-3 those females are getting 10-15x more charging from the male than they'd get in the wild. I've always aimed for at least a group of 9+.

That's all I do! Only time I've lost any is when a female gets too big and challenges the current male. It's some real game of thrones stuff.

 

[jonelder68]

I’m ready to buy it from him. Did you add them directly to the tank?

You can add direct to DT but Dr Reefs said they perform QT with formalin and metroplex. Then hold in observation for 30 days before available. Even after all this he says it’s not uncommon once stress from shipping and tank transfers for uronema to come to light. It’s a real problem/issue they state. So they suggest once received to hold in isolation 2 weeks. Also helps with getting them eating etc.

 

[Zodiac]

Uronema will kill your anthias very quickly. I had anthias go from first visual sign of lesion to dead in 48 hours. They're very susceptible fish, as if feeding them wasnt hard enough. Some I had to constantly hatch baby brine shrimp.

That being said I was able to keep a few for a couple of years. Its a mix of technique and luck.

They're my favorite fish. I've had fathead, dispar, resplendent, ignitus, evansi, red saddled, sunset, princess, purple queen and waitei.