Sharks and their Captive Care

CaptainKiwi

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This thread is for the general discussion of the Article Sharks and their Captive Care. Please add to the discussion here.

Summary

In this article I will cover the most suitable, commonly kept species of sharks available in the aquarium trade. These sharks will all be benthic sharks – sharks that are able to sit on the tank floor and “buccal pump”, meaning they can force water over their own gills. This is different to ram ventilation which requires the sharks to be constantly swimming to breathe. Unless your tank is 30 feet (and this is on the low end), no ram ventilators are suitable to be kept. This article is meant to help those who would like to keep sharks find the relevant information required in one place.



Shark Basics

Tank Size

With benthic sharks, tank footprint is much more valuable than volume. For example, a standard 180 gallon tank has dimensions 72” long x 24” wide x 24” tall which equates to around 12 sq ft of space. A tank of dimensions 78” long x 30” wide x 18” tall also equates to 180 gallons, but would offer 16.25 sq ft of space – 25% more.

Sharks are large predatory fish that will require either a custom-made tank or stock pond to be kept. The first question many people will ask is “I have a 180 gallon, will [insert shark name] fit in it” and the answer to that is emphatically no. Disregarding the fact even the smallest shark will require a tank that is at minimum 8 foot x 3 foot or a pond 6ft in diameter (roughly 24 sq ft), the mentality of fitting the shark to the tank and not the tank to the shark is inappropriate. The right mindset for a shark would be – “I would like [insert shark name], what tank size is recommended for them”.

Round stock ponds are generally much better than tanks as it allows the shark to swim easier, provides more natural cover and are much easier and cheaper to set up. A 6ft stock pond would cost a few hundred dollars to set up if done efficiently, a tank of the same floor area will cost a few thousand.


Water Conditions

Good water quality is not just a requirement, it is a necessity for their long-term health. Many of the most used aquarium medications contain metals that will harm or potentially even kill the shark it is attempting to treat. Bacterial infections will have to be treated with proper antibiotics. Prevention will always be better than protection and an oversized skimmer along with UV is highly recommended for all setups.

Temperature for most of these sharks will be standard reef temperatures (between 24C-28C) with salinity at 29-34ppt or 1.022-1.025 SG and a pH of 8.1-8.4.


Food and Nutrition

While different species will have different preferences, most sharks will feed on a variety of squids, octopi, shrimp and crabs. Smaller fish will generally be accepted, whether you are feeding them or they are in the tank as tank mates (although some epaulettes in captivity have been reported to not eat fish at all). Ocean Nutrition does a “Frozen Shark Formula” which is made from a mix of different fish and molluscs that seems to have good reviews from shark keepers. It is also highly recommended to feed “Mazuri Shark & Ray Supplement” for extra nutritional support. Feeding amounts and routines will depend on the type and size of shark, since the vast majority of sharks on this tank are nocturnal, evening feedings seem to be many keepers' preferred time.


Tank Mates

Tank mates for sharks are a little tricky and it depends on the fish as much as the shark. Angels (including dwarf angels), triggers and butterflies are generally considered a hard no. All three enjoy picking at cartilage, and all three have been well documented to target sharks - especially their eyes. There are some people who have kept, for example, blue throat triggers with sharks and have experienced no issues, showing that keeping them together isn’t impossible, however the consensus seems to be that if these fish are in the tank it’s a matter of when not if something goes wrong. Tangs seem to be incredibly hit and miss and very much depends on the temperament of the tang. Some tangs will pick on sharks to death, but others don’t bother them at all. This seems to be less to do with the cartilaginous nature of the sharks and more to do with territory, general aggression and the tangs grazing nature.

If you do want to try these fish out, they will need daily monitoring and be prepared to move them out very quickly. Sharks being attacked/pestered by these fish can go from alive to dead in a few hours.

As for suitable tank mates, common tankmates in FOWLRs include morays, lionfish, groupers and snappers, all of which do very well with sharks assuming that neither can fit in each other’s mouths (sharks will of course eat fish but a story came up about an adult grouper eating a juvenile bamboo). For reef tanks, anthias, hawkfish, basslets, grammas, chromis, wrasses (be careful with cleaners as they can harass sharks) etc will all be more than fine, as long as the species is more on the peaceful side. It is not recommended to stock anything you would be upset to lose. All inverts are potentially on the menu so be prepared to replace those.


Ethics

Buying a shark when it’s small and then planning to give it away when you can no longer care for it is entirely unethical – you should not buy any animal you know you will not be able to care for at some point. Most sharks will comfortably live 10+ years, with many reaching 20 years and even longer with proper husbandry.

The minimum tank dimensions in the care guide are exactly that – minimum dimensions. If you have the space for a 10x4 and get an 8x3, you are doing the sharks a disservice.

Please do not buy a shark if you are not ready to commit to proper husbandry of these very large, messy animals for life.

Species Profiles

The Epaulettes

These will be, by far, the “best” shark to keep for a variety of reasons. Firstly, their natural habitat is very shallow, cramped tidal pools – exactly like a fish tank/pond. Their main method of movement is their famous “walk” and while they can be found swimming along the bottom of shallow reefs, compared to other sharks, they are relatively poor swimmers. Secondly, they are naturally hardy - due to the nature of tide pools, epaulettes have been observed in temperature and water conditions that other sharks and fish simply wouldn’t survive in. Lastly, they feed readily and are also well documented to have been bred in captivity, with places such as ORA breeding many lines (it should be noted ORA have discontinued their epaulette breeding program). As with all animals, buying captive bred is always recommended when possible.

They are nocturnal, during the day movement is very limited, and they will often hide in caves or under ledges in the tank. PVC pipes are a cheap and easy way to provide shelter for them. During the night they are generally more active as they forage for food and they will occasionally swim around.

Tank height should be minimum 1.5ft.


Hemiscyllium ocellatum (Epaulette Shark)


1769182890004.png

Image Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Hemiscyllium_ocellatum_Océanopolis.jpg

By far the most common and also largest epaulette found in the trade. Found in the western Pacific, mainly in Australia, but also from in New Guinea and even up to Indonesia.

Max Size: 107cm

Average Size: 90 cm

Size at Birth: 12-15cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 60cm

Growth Rate: 5-28cm per year

Temperature: 22C-28C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 8ft x 4ft (7ft diameter pond)


Hemiscyllium trispeculare (Speckled Epaulette)

1769182998496.png

Image Source: https://fishesofaustralia.net.au/home/species/3265

The second most commonly available epaulette, found on the northern coast of Australia. They are more difficult to find then the ocellatum, but places can stock them on request. Can be considered a more compact ocellatum, their beautiful speckled pattern sets them apart visually.

Max Size: 79cm

Average Size: 60 cm

Size at Birth: 12-15cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 55cm

Growth Rate: 10-18cm per year

Temperature: 24C-28C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 8ft x 3ft (6ft diameter pond)


Hemiscyllium hallstromi (Papuan Epaulette)

1769183044218.png

Image Source: https://fishesofaustralia.net.au/home/species/5171

Found along the coasts of Papua, primarily in the Gulf of Papua from Port Moseby all the way to the eastern tip. Rare and difficult to find, but very occasionally available.

Max Size: 77cm

Average Size: 65 cm

Size at Birth: 12-15cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 55cm

Growth Rate: 10-18cm per year

Temperature: 24C-28C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 8ft x 3ft (6ft diameter pond)


Hemiscyllium strahini (Hooded Epaulette)

1769183144749.png


Image Source: https://se.reeflex.net/tiere/12766_Hemiscyllium_strahani.htm

Found along the north coasts of Papua, they are theoretically available as there are no issues with collection, they just aren’t wanted in enough numbers that they are exported. There are some vague references to them being sold, but nothing concrete.

Max Size: 77cm

Average Size: 65 cm

Size at Birth: 12-15cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 55cm

Growth Rate: 10-18cm per year

Temperature: 24C-28C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 8ft x 3ft (6ft diameter pond)


Hemiscyllium michaeli (Hooded Epaulette)

1769183195863.png

Image Source: https://www.sharkwater.com/shark-database/sharks/leopard-epaulette-shark/

Found along the east coasts of Papua, they are theoretically available as there are no issues with collection, but there are no records or rumours of them being collected or sold.

Max Size: 70cm

Average Size: 61 cm

Size at Birth: 12-15cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 52cm

Growth Rate: 10-18cm per year

Temperature: 24C-28C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 8ft x 3ft (6ft diameter pond)


Other Epaulettes:

H.freycineti, H.henyri, H.halmahera and H.gallei are all endemic to Indonesia. Due to collection restrictions around sharks, restrictions around collecting epaulettes specifically and that they are found in or near marine reserves far away from the main islands, these species are impossible to find. Fish collectors/exporters, including specialist shark exporters in the region, struggle to collect them. If by some miracle you find one of these epaulettes available, their care can be assumed to be more or less the same as trispeculare and hallstromi.


1769183236297.png

Hemiscyllium species A) H. freycineti, B) H. hallstromi, C) H. galei, D) H. trispeculare, E) H. ocellatum, F) H.
michaeli
, G) H. halmahera, H) H. henryi & I) H. strahani Credit: Allen et al 2016


The Catsharks

The catsharks are probably the most mistreated shark in captivity due to their size. Most catsharks max out at around 60cm so people assume they can be kept in smaller tanks then say, an epaulette. This is absolutely not the case as they are considerably more active than epaulettes and will spend a large amount of time actively swimming during the day and especially at night when they would naturally forage for food. I recommend watching this video by Chris Avila showing how much space adult banded sand catsharks use: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDn8U-Dktro. During the day, they will spend time resting on the bottom, so lots of cover is also recommended for them.

In the wild, some of these species can be found in rock pools, but the vast majority of their time is spent scouring the bottom of the reef for food. Like the epaulettes, they are also quite a hardy group.

Tank height should be minimum 2ft.


Atelomycterus marmoratus (Coral Cat Shark)

1769183448682.png


Image Source: https://www.aquariumdomain.com/SpeciesProfiles/MarineFish/CoralCatshark.shtml

By far the most common and also largest catshark found in the trade. Found all over the Western Pacific and the Eastern Indian Ocean, from Pakistan all the way to the Philippines and Indonesia, but most commonly are collected in Australia and the West Pacific. These are intertidal sharks that are often found in shallow reefs and often in rock pools, though their use of tide pools is more limited then the epaulettes and appears to come more from being trapped in shallow areas at low tide then being tide pool specialists like epaulettes.

Max Size: 71cm

Average Size: 61 cm

Size at Birth: 11cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 50cm

Growth Rate: 13-15cm per year

Temperature: 20C-28C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 8ft x 4ft (7ft diameter pond)


Atelomycterus macleayi (Marbled Catshark)

1769183493514.png


Image Source: https://animalia.bio/australian-marbled-catshark

A common catshark found in north-west Australia, they are available in the pet trade but not as much as the coral cat. As with coral cats, they are found in very shallow water and can also be found in tide pools at low tide.

Max Size: 61cm

Average Size: 56 cm

Size at Birth: 10cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 47cm

Growth Rate: 9-10cm per year

Temperature: 22C-28C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 8ft x 3ft (6ft diameter pond)


Atelomycterus faciatus (Banded Sand Catshark)

1769183532668.png

Image Source: https://en.aquaworld-oarai.com/shark-list/atelomycterus-fasciatus/

A common catshark found in north-west Australia, they are available in the pet trade but not as much as the coral cat. They differ from the other catsharks in that they are not found in shallow water but slightly deeper, there are no records of it being found in tide pools.

Max Size: 47cm

Average Size: 43 cm

Size at Birth: 9cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 35cm

Growth Rate: 9-10cm per year

Temperature: 20C-28C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 8ft x 3ft (6ft diameter pond)


Other Catsharks:

Atelomycterus baliensis is a small catshark that is very irregularly available, they face the same collection restriction issues as the Indonesian epaulettes, but due to their proximity to Bali they do occasionally come up. Their care can be assumed to be the same as A.faciatus. The Izu catshark (Scyliorhinus tokubee) is a small catshark found of the waters of Japan and can occasionally be found in the trade, a large chiller will be required to keep them however, as they prefer water around 9C-16C.



The Bamboos

Bamboo sharks are among the most commonly encountered sharks in the aquarium trade and are often marketed as “beginner sharks” due to their hardiness and frequent availability as small juveniles. This reputation is misleading. While bamboos are resilient and generally tolerant of a range of water conditions, they grow into large, heavy-bodied sharks that require a substantial amount of space and care. Many bamboo sharks outgrow their systems far faster than their keepers anticipate, making them one of the most rehomed and, unfortunately, mistreated sharks in captivity.

In the wild, bamboo sharks inhabit shallow coastal reefs, sandy lagoons, and reef flats, where they spend much of their time resting on the substrate during the day and actively foraging at night. Unlike epaulettes, bamboo sharks rely far more on swimming to move between resting and hunting areas, and compared to catsharks they are heavier, less agile, and require more open turning room. Their cruising behavior along the bottom means that tank footprint, particularly width, is critical, and narrow tanks will lead to constant fin and snout damage as the shark struggles to maneuver.

Tank height should be minimum 2ft except for C.punctatum which should be 3ft.


Chiloscyllium griseum (Gray Bamboo Shark)

1769183584919.png


Image Source: https://www.aquariumbcn.com/en/especies/sharks-and-rays/gray-bamboo-shark/

The gray bamboo shark is widely distributed across the Indo–West Pacific, occurring from the Persian Gulf and Indian subcontinent through Southeast Asia and into parts of Indonesia. It inhabits shallow coastal reefs, sandy lagoons, and reef flats, often resting under ledges or among rubble during the day and actively foraging at night.

Max Size: 77cm

Average Size: 66 cm

Size at Birth: 11cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 44cm

Growth Rate: 15-18cm per year

Temperature: 23C-29C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 8ft x 4ft (7 ft diameter pond)


Chiloscyllium arabicum (Arabian Bamboo Shark)

1769183636750.png

Image Source: https://www.sharksandrays.com/arabian-carpetshark/

The Arabian bamboo shark is native to the warm coastal waters of the western Indian Ocean, ranging from the Persian/Arabian Gulf through Pakistan and western India where it inhabits coral reefs, rocky shores, mangrove estuaries, and shallow coastal habitats. These sharks are quite rare to find but are available.

Max Size: 80cm

Average Size: 71 cm

Size at Birth: 11cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 50cm

Growth Rate: 15-18cm per year

Temperature: 23C-29C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 8ft x 4ft (7 ft diameter pond)


Chiloscyllium plagiosum (White-Spotted Bamboo Shark)\

1769183690465.png

Image Source: https://www.aquariumbcn.com/en/especies/sharks-and-rays/whitespotted-bamboo-shark/

The white-spotted bamboo shark is found across extensive parts of the Indo-Pacific, from the coastal reefs of Indonesia and Southeast Asia up to regions near Japan and west toward India, typically along shallow reef flats and lagoons. They are one of the more commonly found bamboos.

Max Size: 99cm

Average Size: 85 cm

Size at Birth: 11cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 50cm

Growth Rate: 15-18cm per year

Temperature: 23C-29C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 10ft x 4ft (7.5 ft diameter pond)


Chiloscyllium punctatum (Brown-Banded Bamboo Shark)

1769183741539.png

Image Source: https://www.floridamuseum.ufl.edu/discover-fish/species-profiles/brownbanded-bambooshark/

Probably the most common bamboo and unfortunately the least appropriate. Unless you have a swimming pool, they are completely inappropriate to be kept by the average aquarist. As with other large fish, many people see a small baby and buy without realising the huge amount of space these sharks will require. A shark for only the most dedicated aquarist.

Max Size: 132cm

Average Size: 106 cm

Size at Birth: 15cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 80cm

Growth Rate: 15-18cm per year

Temperature: 23C-29C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 16ft x 6ft (11.5 ft diameter pond)


Other Bamboos:

C.hasseltii
are a dwarf species of bamboo that can be found, however they are documented as being very sensitive and often die during shipping. They are considered to be an expert level species and should not be kept by anyone except expert level aquarists.



The Wobbegongs

Wobbegongs are relatively inactive sharks that sit in one place for a long time until prey comes by. They are a quintessential ambush predator and have a very aggressive feeding response. Their low activity level makes them suitable for home aquariums, but unlike the rest of the sharks that will occasionally eat tankmates, be assured a wobbegong can and will decimate anything in your tank – in the wild fish make up the bulk of their diet and are recorded to have even eaten smaller sharks. Tank mates must be large and robust if any at all.

Tank height should be minimum 2ft.


Orecolobus wardi (Northern Wobbegong)

1769183800916.png

Image Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northern_wobbegong

Found in the north and west of Australia, they are somewhat available in the pet trade. The smallest Wobbegong species, they are found in shallow reefs.

Max Size: 64cm

Average Size: 61 cm

Size at Birth: 14cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 45cm

Growth Rate: 10-15cm per year

Temperature: 21C-28C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 8ft x 3ft (6ft diameter pond)


Orecolobus reticulatus (Network Wobbegong)


1769183841643.png

Image Source: https://fishesofaustralia.net.au/home/species/2613

Found in south-west Australia in the eastern Indian Ocean, they are somewhat available in the pet trade. A medium sized shark, they are found in shallow, temperate reefs.

Max Size: 82cm

Average Size: 72 cm

Size at Birth: 22cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 55cm

Growth Rate: 10-15cm

Temperature: 15C-25C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 8ft x 3ft (6ft diameter pond)


Other Wobbegongs:

O.ornatus and O.japonicus are all available but have the potential to max out at almost 4ft. Both of these sharks would require a tank of minimum 8 ft x 4 ft, with ornatus having care similar to reticulatus and japonicus being similar to wardi. O.ornatus have been recorded to have bitten people in tide pools meaning they can be considered somewhat suitable, but the large maximum size is a barrier for most aquarists.



Others

Pseudoginglymostoma brevicaudatum (Short-Tail Nurse Shark)

1769183893730.png

Image Source: https://thenationaldesk.com/news/fr...cean-madagascar-africas-eastern-coast?photo=1

An endangered shark found off the coast of east Africa, mainly around Tanzania, Kenya and Madagascar, they can be found quite easily in the pet trade. ORA have a captive breeding program for them which would be by far the best source. They are a hardy but lethargic species, famous for resting on their sides or back which can give the impression they are dead. A shark that is quite suitable for aquarium life with the only issue being their high price tag.

Max Size: 77cm

Average Size: 66 cm

Size at Birth: 10-15cm

Size at Sexual Maturity: 55cm

Growth Rate: Unknown

Temperature: 24C-28C

Minimum Tank Dimensions: 8ft x 3ft (6ft diameter pond) (2ft height minimum)


Hetrodontus Sp.

These are large bodied, active sharks. In a similar position to the larger bamboos, they are quite simply too big and active for the average aquarium. The Mexican Horn Shark is the smallest and most manageable of the group, but is impossible to find. The rest of the group can be found, but they get truly massive, with the Californian Horn Shark getting to 4ft and the most famous shark of the group, the Port Jackson, getting to 4.5 feet. All of these sharks would require a tank with minimum 50 sq ft, with the larger sharks requiring closer to 70-80 sq ft.


The following shark species have all been sold in the US pet trade at some point, but all grow too large for home aquariums. As a general rule, they all require a minimum of a 10,000 gallon tank as adults.

Bonnethead shark, Sphyrna tiburo
Lemon shark, Negaprion brevirostris
Leopard shark, Triakis semifasciata
Nurse shark, Ginglymostoma cirratum
Pacific blacktip reef shark, Carcharhinus melanopterus
Pacific Zebra shark, Stegostoma fasciatum
Spotted wobbegong, Orectolobus maculatus
Whitetip reef shark, Triaenodon obesus



References:


Shark and Ray Forum - https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/sharksandrays/shark-care-profiles-f48/
Shark and Stingray Aquarist - https://www.facebook.com/groups/429580500551376/?ref=share
ORA - https://www.orafarm.com/blog/2016/11/03/epaulette-sharks/

Thanks to the many people who have shared information, from qualified zoo keepers, to breeders, to general keepers.
 
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IntrinsicReef

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Great article. I added a Grey Bamboo Shark purchased from Dr. Reef 18 months ago to my client's 8'x3'x2' reef tank at their request. I have another client with a 750 where it will be moved to down the road. It has been an interesting fish. It walks around the tank on it's pectoral fins and digs a lot. I feed it mostly Rod's Carnivore formula and krill but will look
20260130_164351.jpg
into the Mazuri formula. It has grown a couple inches in the last year and a half. His tankmates are Tangs, a Toby puffer and surprisingly a trio of chromis. He spends a lot of time digging pits in the overhang shadows and resting in them. One thing I've found interesting is sensitivity to cooler temperature. I keep the tank at 78, but when my clients went out of town and the tank dropped to 75, he just shut down. He didn't eat or move much while the other fish were unaffected. Raising the temp immediately changed the behavior.
He knows the people who feed him and really only free swims when he knows when it's dinner time. Is there a way to visually sex them? Thank you
 
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I do a 75 gallon water change every two weeks. Here is his current favorite spot where he bulldozed the 6 loose rocks( all others are mounted) so he can wedge himself in. Pictures are today during maintenance
20260130_171928.jpg

20260130_181729.jpg
 
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Glad to see the tangs get on well!

Only way would be to snap a picture of the underside and see if claspers are visible! Here is a visual guide to male vs female sharks.


Thank you for the reply. The shark snaps at the tangs when they try to steal his food. The desjardini postures with his tail in the sharks face. They have a little dynamic almost like typical Tang pecking order behavior.
Only way would be to snap a picture of the underside and see if claspers are visible! Here is a visual guide to male vs female sharks.
The shark sometimes swims up with its belly on the glass during feeding time. I will try and snap a pic, then post it. Thanks again!
 
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Glad to see the tangs get on well!

Only way would be to snap a picture of the underside and see if claspers are visible! Here is a visual guide to male vs female sharks.


I finally snapped a pic of her (I think) against the glass. Let me know what you think about the sex. Thank you again!
20260220_161619.jpg
 

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Zach136378

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I have an epullate in my 180 gallon I know it won’t be big enough but for right now he is perfectly fine for now. I have made sure to give him as much sand space as possible he is pretty small right now at around 11 inches
IMG_0913.jpeg
IMG_0912.jpeg
 
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I have an epullate in my 180 gallon I know it won’t be big enough but for right now he is perfectly fine for now. I have made sure to give him as much sand space as possible he is pretty small right now at around 11 inches
IMG_0913.jpeg
IMG_0912.jpeg
Beautiful shark! How long have you had him for?
 
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Almost a year now only bad thing about him is trying to keep him with small fish like I really wanna keep anthias
You can definitely try some fish, I would go for fish on the the cheaper side and anthias would be a good for for this!
 

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You can definitely try some fish, I would go for fish on the the cheaper side and anthias would be a good for for this!
I have a bit of a theory now on keeping smaller fish with a shark. In my case, the grey bamboo. Size of tankmates is a factor, but not the only factor. The shark in my client's tank ate a pair of captive raised clownfish, 1 of 2 captive raised Bangaii Cardinalfish, and a trio of large adult bar gobies ( around 5" in length.) He did not eat a Regal Tang that started very small, a school of blue/ green chromis or a Dwarf blue spotted puffer. Large tangs make up the rest of the inhabitants. Besides the puffers natural defenses, I think where the fish sleep might be a big factor. If they slept low in the water column and didn't tightly wedge themselves in the rocks, those seem to be the ones that were eaten. Maybe groups of rocks that the shark can't bulldoze and get into at night is helpful? But it's hard to balance that with open sand for the shark.
 
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You can definitely try some fish, I would go for fish on the the cheaper side and anthias would be a good for for this!
I have a bit of a theory now on keeping smaller fish with a shark. In my case, the grey bamboo. Size of tankmates is a factor, but not the only factor. The shark in my client's tank ate a pair of captive raised clownfish, 1 of 2 captive raised Bangaii Cardinalfish, and a trio of large adult bar gobies ( around 5" in length.) He did not eat a Regal Tang that started very small, a school of blue/ green chromis or a Dwarf blue spotted puffer. Large tangs make up the rest of the inhabitants. Besides the puffers natural defenses, I think where the fish sleep might be a big factor. If they slept low in the water column and didn't tightly wedge themselves in the rocks, those seem to be the ones that were eaten. Maybe groups of rocks that the shark can't bulldoze and get into at night is helpful? But it's hard to balance that with open sand for the shark.
This is an excellent thought, epaulettes being nocturnal are most aggressive feeders at night so anything sleeping would be easy prey!
 

Zach136378

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The square anthias seem just about big enough for the shark not to swallow day two now and they are perfect
 

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