Shaun's 2000 Litre (530 USG) Living Reef & Red Sea Max S 650 LED Design & Build

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SPR1968

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I did my normal weekly water tests today, all levels were fine, alkalinity usage is fairly high at 250ml (now 260ml per day) of Foundation B and the Magnesium usage was fairly high as well.

Well magnesium usage made me suspicious as although at 1320ppm the level was fine I couldn’t believe the dosing amount. So I investigated and found there was very little coming out of the dosing tube. Infact it was virtually blocked.

So I investigated a little further and took a look at the dosing container. The magnesium liquid had solidified in one corner were the dosing pipe goes in at the bottom. It was like clear glass/acrylic so clearly some form of reaction.

So I emptied this out, replaced some of the dosing tubing and it works fine now but I’ve halved the dosing amount on the basis it must have been wrong and I’ll adjust again in 7 days

These things are sent to test you from time to time!
 
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Good catch with the ATO Shaun, the Neptune one seems to be better for what you are saying. I think the S-650 is telling you not to forget him for his bigger brother.
Assuming the Neptune one is reliable it’s far better, infact the design and integration with Apex is non comparable. The fact it’s got 2 optical sensors, but then a float switch final shut off in the event of complete failure and of course you get alerts and can also manually turn off the pump via Apex.

If you haven’t seen it this is the Apex ATK Log that it records when it’s on and off. At the moment it’s still ‘learning’

0249749B-889A-47CB-A719-735E873F2A57.jpeg
 
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Nice catch. :)
I know. I learned a while ago not to skip weekly tests to avoid issues Simon.

If you haven’t tried them take a look at the NYOS calcium and magnesium tests. They take just minutes and match Triton within a few ppm. I still use Hanna for alkalinity which again takes no time, but the NYOS are very good, and simple.
 
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SPR1968

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Of course! This one definitely deserves some recognition. This has to be my favorite build I have come across on R2R. I bet a LOT of time went into planning this. And yea, I better! Before someone sees! Hahahaha! ;Hilarious
Thank you very much, that’s a wonderful compliment!

A massive amount of planning has gone, and is going into the new system certainly. Take a look at the equipment list a few pages back for an idea if you haven’t seen it.

The S650 is different as of course they are just standard Red Sea tanks.

I just fell in love with the hobby to be honest, and then for my trip to the Galapagos (link below) I purchased a new camera, and photography is the perfect companion hobby as we have such amazing creatures in our tanks.
 
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Now this may be made by Neptune, but it’s not a part from a Trident submarine or the USS Alabama or anything like that.

It’s the plumbing required to install a 2 inch Neptune Apex flow sensor into 32mm pipe work. It’s about 18 inches long including the union and ball valve connectors to make it easy to remove if needed.

2CD3047F-5E8F-46B0-817B-506055DE850C.jpeg
 

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Now this may be made by Neptune, but it’s not a part from a Trident submarine or the USS Alabama or anything like that.

It’s the plumbing required to install a 2 inch Neptune Apex flow sensor into 32mm pipe work. It’s about 18 inches long including the union and ball valve connectors to make it easy to remove if needed.

2CD3047F-5E8F-46B0-817B-506055DE850C.jpeg
That's is a sweet prefab product right there!

And nice work figuring out the Mg issue. I wonder if anyone else has ever encountered a similar situation eith theirs?
 
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I’ve installed a few systems over the last few days, or at least partially other than some of the plumbing and tubing, including the 2 Apex DOS units, UVC and now the Clarisea SK5000.

I’ve also ordered the final main equipment items including the Deltec Twin Tech 1500 Calcium Reactor, additional Apex ATK module to replace the one used recently on the S650 and many other (expensive!) items to the tune of around £3600.

I spent a few hours this afternoon staring at the pipework, altering it and dry fitting it, and then finally solvent welding it into place. The 40mm downpipe reduces to 32mm just under the ball valve which is the correct size to fit into the Clarisea

The ball valve is in addition to the gate valve so I can just turn the water straight off when I want to take the clarisea out, rather than messing with the gate valve every time and then having to fine tune it.

The additional union connector means I can also just disconnect it there if need be for any reason

189033C1-0539-40D2-AE2F-931CC362E7A8.jpeg
 
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It’s taking me long to catch up with your build, page 50-something so far ... just taking time while appreciating the photos :)

Tagging along as well and looking to get a couple of ideas for my build as you are running way ahead of me, exciting!!!!
Thank you, there are ‘a few’ pictures on here from time to time! Lol
 
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And finally managed to catch up, took me a few days hahaha ... and the gear you just got :eek:

Indeed we are at a similar stage although my build is going to take quite longer as I need to get the actual construction first which is going to take several months :/

Reading your posts and your experience with the amount of dosing you are doing to keep alkalinity, nitrates and phosphates in check ... I had the same issue for a couple of years, I was dosing almost 300ml daily of carbonates and a whole bunch of phosphate and nitrate removers which was costing money but more than anything, annoying to refill constantly ... long story short, I gave Triton method a try and went down to 40ml daily which allows me to run for 3 months without having to refill anything, also managed to get my Nitrates from 20-30 down to 5, and my phosphates from 0.2 to 0.05-0.1 by natural means (no additional chemicals).

Anyway just sharing my experience ... looking forward for the next updates :)
 
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And finally managed to catch up, took me a few days hahaha ... and the gear you just got :eek:

Indeed we are at a similar stage although my build is going to take quite longer as I need to get the actual construction first which is going to take several months :/

Reading your posts and your experience with the amount of dosing you are doing to keep alkalinity, nitrates and phosphates in check ... I had the same issue for a couple of years, I was dosing almost 300ml daily of carbonates and a whole bunch of phosphate and nitrate removers which was costing money but more than anything, annoying to refill constantly ... long story short, I gave Triton method a try and went down to 40ml daily which allows me to run for 3 months without having to refill anything, also managed to get my Nitrates from 20-30 down to 5, and my phosphates from 0.2 to 0.05-0.1 by natural means (no additional chemicals).

Anyway just sharing my experience ... looking forward for the next updates :)
I’m sort of waiting a little with the S650 for when I go back to water changes. I haven’t done one for 6 months not on purpose, but just because I left it a month and all was good, then another month...... infact is doesn’t look any different. I am adding trace elements etc.

Very shortly, (infact it would have been sooner if I hadn’t had the ‘incident with the hacksaw’! Lol), the S650 is going to be hooked into the new water change system controlled by Apex DOS so slow continuous water changes will restart. And as such, the amount of foundation elements I need to add will decrease because of the new salt.

The other option is to get another Twin Tech Calcium Reactor, once I know how it works, but I don’t think it will be necessary on the S650 once the water changes start again. This will also help with nutrient control, although this is ok anyway. The Chaeto in the ALR2 reactor doesn’t want to grow probably because it’s being out competed by everything else in place and this is coming out the next time it needs cleaning, if not before.

I did look at Triton, and the new system has a refugium including blacked out glass for light spill, so I can use it if and when needed in the future, but I won’t go the full method.
 
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Here’s a complete list of equipment. I’ve updated it again after needing some more bits. It’s like endless!

Let me tell you, anybody building a big system with high end equipment best start saving! Lol

Abyzz a200 return pump
Ecotech Radion XR30w G4 Pro LED x 4
Ecotech Radion RMS Tank mounts x 4
Ecotech Vortech MP60wQD x 2
Ecotech Vortech MP40wQD x 1 (for the centre of the tank)
Ecotech battery backups x 3
Real Reef Rock Premium x 150kg (to start! Lol)
NYOS Quantum 300 protein skimmer
Teco TK2000e chiller/heater
Clarisea SK5000
Clarisea SK5000 XL Fleece
Deltec FR512 rhowaphos reactor
Deltec Twin Tech 1500 Calcium Reactor
Rowalith W Calcium Reactor media (large grain)
DD 80w UVC
Neptune Apex 2016 Fusion (yes an additional one!)
Neptune Apex DOS (for auto water changes/dosing) x 2
Neptune Apex Vortech WXM Module (to control/monitor Radion/Vortech)
Neptune Apex Magnetic Probe holder
Neptune Apex Auto Top Off ATK
Neptune Apex Leak Detection kit
Neptune Apex 2’ flow sensor (to monitor flow from return pump)
Neptune Apex 1’ flow sensor x 2 (chiller and UVC)
Neptune Apex Optical Sensors x 2
Neptune Apex FMM module (I need an extra one for sensors)
2 x 425 litre water containers for RODI and automatic water changes
ATM Colony x 5 946ml (no I’m not using dead shrimps!! Lol)
Red Sea Reef Pink Live Sand x 70kg
Red Sea Standard salt x 6 22kg buckets
 
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