Shipped Fish/Inverts - Drip Acclimate or Not???

[Clawfish]

I've followed the same protocol as suggested by Reefcleaners multiple times and have not suffered any losses through shipping (that is usually where I buy inverts), but I'm sure just as many hobbyists can point to similar anecdotes where they've dripped snails/crabs and had perfect success. I would def still drip the fish though.

One thing isn't debatable however - it sure is a lot more convenient to only float the inverts. Not that that should be dispositive but in a world where information is conflicting/uncertain it's not bad to consider.

I order my CUC from Reef Cleaners as well. I have never had an issue just floating CUC.

What do you suggest for the carpet anemone?

 

[damsels are not mean]

We only drip fish for large salinity shifts. Anemones are more sensitive to this though and there is no tradeoff with those as the ammonia buildup isn't an issue like it is for fish. If the salinity of the vendor water and your water is close then the ammonia build up is more likely to kill the fish than a small salinity shift. Especially if that shift if downwards. Ask the vendor what salinity they keep their tanks at or just test the water when the fish arrive. Float to equalize temperatures (however long that takes) and in they go unless there is a big gap in salinity.

 

[GARRIGA]

I have certainly done both methods, but yes will stick with that they say, I would prefer not to drip due to a Blend that only lasted a few days and the shop offered to send me another and send, acclimate it how you want then...

I would like to float maybe add a little water over 20-30 minutes just to not shock him then add.

I think the fish needs to get out of the bag and toxic water and into the aquarium with room and hiding spots basically as soon as possible after adjusting temps, just my personal thoughts on it.

Wouldn't be concerned about the fish stressing over being confined a little longer. They already endured cramp conditions in the dark.

Many don't believe in Prime but it's worked for me and I add to all fish being acclimated. I've used it to transition mollies to brackish as that took several hours. Could call Seachem and discuss with them so they give you better information. I have and been using it since 2017 or possibly earlier.

I'd check the salinity just to be on the safe side. Some sellers might have it low to reduce issues with pathogens so that's something that might need longer acclimation. Going up in PH less stressful then down but might want to check that before dumping in the tank. Two biggest variables that concern me. I would also check to see the bag alkalinity. Another area of concern and why drip acclimation tends to work.

Not sure if it's been discussed or mentioned but I'm assuming these are going into QT. That being the case, could test the bag water and perhaps quickly adjust the QT within reasonnable difference and just temp acclimate and dump. Then raise the QT slowly to required paramiters which might be lower salinity if that's preferred to again reduce issue with pathogens.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Good afternoon all!

I hope everyone is doing good!! I have heard some very mixed things about acclimating fish upon arrival via post/shipment. Some people say just to acclimate temps while others suggest drip acclimation. I have also heard that drip acclimation can actually shock the fish even more.

As a man with a Male Splendid Pintail Fairy Wrasse, Green Carpet Anemone and 2 Engineer Gobies set to arrive tomorrow morning, I am searching for the best way to acclimate my new fish. So please give me your thoughts on acclimation process.

P.S. I do know that wrasses do not ship that well, but due to my location I just could not find the right wrasse that I wanted.

Thanks in advance!

Float bags at least 20 minutes for temperature adjustment. Release contents into a very clean bucket and add a cup of water from tank to bucket every 15 minutes 6-8 times.( 1.5- 2 hours) and verify salinity in bucket with that of tank). If the same or close, capture fish in same cup, pour off water and release into tank

 

[Clawfish]

Wouldn't be concerned about the fish stressing over being confined a little longer. They already endured cramp conditions in the dark.

Many don't believe in Prime but it's worked for me and I add to all fish being acclimated. I've used it to transition mollies to brackish as that took several hours. Could call Seachem and discuss with them so they give you better information. I have and been using it since 2017 or possibly earlier.

I'd check the salinity just to be on the safe side. Some sellers might have it low to reduce issues with pathogens so that's something that might need longer acclimation. Going up in PH less stressful then down but might want to check that before dumping in the tank. Two biggest variables that concern me. I would also check to see the bag alkalinity. Another area of concern and why drip acclimation tends to work.

Not sure if it's been discussed or mentioned but I'm assuming these are going into QT. That being the case, could test the bag water and perhaps quickly adjust the QT within reasonnable difference and just temp acclimate and dump. Then raise the QT slowly to required paramiters which might be lower salinity if that's preferred to again reduce issue with pathogens.

I do have Prime, how much do you add, just a drop?

I do have my Evo 13.5 that is currently a frag tank, fire shrimp and CUC. I am planning on adding the frags to the 65, they have all been in there about 2.5 months now. I could acclimate the frags and add them to the 65 tomorrow morning and use the Evo as a QT. That has been my plan all along so might as well do it now.

I have never QTd fish in the past, the 65 has been running about 6 weeks and fully cycled fairly quickly. I have a pair of lighting maroone clowns in there now, mini max carpet, RFA, some Zoos, mushrooms all doing very well.

How long do you like to QT for, 2-3 weeks?

 

[GARRIGA]

I do have Prime, how much do you add, just a drop?

I do have my Evo 13.5 that is currently a frag tank, fire shrimp and CUC. I am planning on adding the frags to the 65, they have all been in there about 2.5 months now. I could acclimate the frags and add them to the 65 tomorrow morning and use the Evo as a QT. That has been my plan all along so might as well do it now.

I have never QTd fish in the past, the 65 has been running about 6 weeks and fully cycled fairly quickly. I have a pair of lighting maroone clowns in there now, mini max carpet, RFA, some Zoos, mushrooms all doing very well.

How long do you like to QT for, 2-3 weeks?

I add prime at 5x the required dosage to deal with ammonia. Just follow the direction on the bottle.

QT should last for several months depending of what it observed. Since Ich/Velvet are recommended to QT for 76 days then that's what I'd consider. My current test tank is just damsels and mollies so I'm not concerned with QT. Technically this tank it is the QT. Plus damsels are very hardy. Mollies as well.

Can't stress enough how QT is the most important aspect of keeping fish. Last thing any want is an infection in the DT. Might want to research freshwater dips. Check the disease sub forum and Humble Fish. Much more knowledge there then I have. No sense chancing it and nothing good ever happens fast.

 

[Clawfish]

I add prime at 5x the required dosage to deal with ammonia. Just follow the direction on the bottle.

QT should last for several months depending of what it observed. Since Ich/Velvet are recommended to QT for 76 days then that's what I'd consider. My current test tank is just damsels and mollies so I'm not concerned with QT. Technically this tank it is the QT. Plus damsels are very hardy. Mollies as well.

Can't stress enough how QT is the most important aspect of keeping fish. Last thing any want is an infection in the DT. Might want to research freshwater dips. Check the disease sub forum and Humble Fish. Much more knowledge there then I have. No sense chancing it and nothing good ever happens fast.

And you add directly to the floating container while acclimating, the Prime that is?

I just think he might go crazy in that little 13.5 gallon tank, I will give it a shot

 

[GARRIGA]

And you add directly to the floating container while acclimating, the Prime that is?

I just think he might go crazy in that little 13.5 gallon tank, I will give it a shot

I have an eye dropper for small volumes. 2-8 drops per gallon depending on task at hand. Lower just for de-chlorination.

One cap full does 50 gallons therefore at 5x to neutralize ammonia/nitrites then that's enough for 10 gallons. Not sure you can overdose this but I'd confirm with Seachem. They answer the phone quickly every time I've called.

I haven't used prime with corals but have with inverts such as snails without issue. Not sure how corals or more sensitive inverts would react. Have heard pods might not do well and did try it once with freshwater daphnia and lost some but don't know if due to water change or prime. Hard to isolate what we do at times and all too easy to just assume.

 

[KeepSwimming]

I like to have a quarantine/ observation tank set up and just match the salinity to what the fish arrives in. Float the bags then drop them in. That leaves time to slowly adjust the salinity to that of the display main tank while I watch for/ treat disease and make sure they’re eating well.

 

[Clawfish]

Welp, package arrived, 0 instructions, just packing slip. Here goes nothing