Yes to both an upgrad in size is always awesome!!! But the 120 is a great footprint with a good amount of volume. I have a sca 120 with the synergy overflow cut, I believe, but its low iron glass. That wouldn't be a deal breaker for me. I guess what I would be sure of is scratches and leaks when full of water and a light on top, I have a new tank in a crate with scratches that were not noticeable until I had everything set up and added salt and turned the light on.
Well my 60 gallon is the same dimensions as the 120 just half the depth. I bought a 48” reefbreeders photon pro so that will work fine over the 2 - 2’ cubes of the 120 I would hope. I waste a lot of light on the front and back of my tank because it’s only 13” deep. My return pumps are a eflux 6010 and eheim compact on 3000 that I turn all the way down flow wise basically. I’m ready to buy more gear if I have to but I kind of bought everything with this upgrade in mind so I think I’m answering my own question
I will have to inspect it super close when I go look at it with a truck! Maybe bring a high powered flash light?Yes to both an upgrad in size is always awesome!!! But the 120 is a great footprint with a good amount of volume. I have a sca 120 with the synergy overflow cut, I believe, but its low iron glass. That wouldn't be a deal breaker for me. I guess what I would be sure of is scratches and leaks when full of water and a light on top, I have a new tank in a crate with scratches that were not noticeable until I had everything set up and added salt and turned the light on.
So buyer beware when buying any tank, I know they get scratches but if I'm buying it I want to put the scratches in it, or the discount needs to make up for them, either way I would definitely say, I would go for the UPGRADE!
Done it a few times, it's best to have both running at once but that's not usually doable, but I would make a temporary holding tank off to the side with heat and flow just in case it takes longer to do than expected. Then you won't be pressed for time and be stressed, and in case you need parts or anything for the new tank that could take a few days.
Lol I bought 2× when I went from 90 to 120 the first time and then used one as a sump
but if you don't scratch the 40's they re sell easy, and here petco use to do 1$ a gallon sale once a year up to 40gallon aqueon tanks, im not sure but I'd guess they don't do it anymore. 
If you are moving everything from the 60, the additional new water won’t really affect anything. I moved everything except my sand from a 110 to a 210 and added new dry rock and was fine.
many cycling trolls are angered by this rule he he we are likely to get an angry retort soon based on me typing that.
I will definitely post on here when I get the new tank so I can show everyone the plan I have set up and adjust it accordingly before the transfer ! This will be done the right way for my fish and corals sake. No point in upgrading if everyone dies from the stress I put them through! Thanks for the feedback!once you're ready to enact the transfer of materials across tanks, post here and we can build an easy tank transfer, pretty much exactly like Hank said above with the option of adding + more rocks to existing or just keeping the existing, and all new sand OR tap water rinsed old sand, the point being cloudless state of sand in the new tank. you can only attain that via rinsing, sandbed bacteria don't matter. that was an old rule made up in 1998 as reefing fact, it's not.
bare bottom tanks exist today by the hundred thousands in numbers due to this proof principle, and, removing sand does NOT mean more bacteria build up on rocks. it means that this whole time, rock bacteria are enough, and it doesn't matter what accessory bacteria you remove. hard to believe, but it's fact.
the rule does not fail and helps reefers in this way: lets say you have 10 fish, 2 canister filters, a sandbed and X pile of rocks in the old tank
when the new tank gets here, the only thing you need to do is transfer over rocks into the new tank and it will carry your ten fish that is carried right now
the 2 canister filters, the sandbed, all the extra surface area people add has no benefit nor can you detect it being missing from the new tank. we were misled that bad regarding filter bacteria in reef tanks
why:
reef tank rock is inherently craggy/jutted/high surface area and it's enough to power any display including fish by itself.
freshwater tanks are polished / low surface area/ not jutted and craggy, so the training to pack in extra surface area for those setups is legit
reefs don't need it: literally their rock is enough and if you want to know the boundaries of the "rule" we use in the 50 page sand rinse thread, we could even reduce your current live rock by 50% and remove the 2x filters and the sandbed, and any test tank hooked to seneye would still indicate pure ammonia control carrying ten fish
large tankers were also equally angry when shown a pico reef in 2001, they said it was a lie and couldn't work. what are there, a million running pico reefs now> the masses rarely accept new findings.
in your case, the + dilution means your bacteria existing in the new tank won't see as much waste concentrate anyway. the rule of surface area is so pronounced in reefing that even if you were downgrading, losing dilution and a ten-fish load would present harsher to surfaces, we still wouldnt care. half anyone's live rock will still run their whole reef, we have several rock cull jobs to lesser aquascapes in the sand rinse thread. the rule doesn't fail.
the only way to fail is to let fish jump out while moving, or to fail to rinse new sand to total cloudlessness
total. cloudlessness, not partial cloudlessness because you care about it's bacteria. there's reasons we do 1000% cloudless sand in the new tank not stated here
if you move old sand, it's cloudless rinsed for the new tank
if you buy brand new sand marked on the bag: don't rinse, you still rinse it to total cloudlessness if you want this job done right. move no cloud, that's key to safey.
