Skimmer/biopellet reactor question

shermoen · Mar 4, 2021

So my biopellet reactor has been setup since early January and it still doesn't seem to be working. My concern is what if it is working but my skimmer isn't catching the effluent and filtering out the nasties as it should be.
My nitrates are sitting pretty steady at 40ppm but have tested once or twice at 80ppm (api test kit jumps from 40 to 80 so could be lower). I have piped the out from my biopellet reactor to the intake of my aquamaxx skimmer, but now the skimmer has become not as consistent and needs adjusting quite often to get good skimming action.
Will the baddies in the effluent make it into the tank if the skimmer isn't functioning properly or will they be collected by the bubbles in the skimmer and eventually be skimmed out?
Another question is whether I need the reactor piped to the skimmer like I have it or if I could just have it next to the skimmer input and be alright? I think the reactor pumping water directly into the skimmer is part of the problem with the inconsistencies of the skimmer.
Thanks all

redfishbluefish · Mar 4, 2021

My thoughts

1. Not crazy about API test kits (maybe it's just me). Might wish to consider other options.....Red Sea, Salifert, Hanna checker, are some examples I'd recommend.

2. Didn't mention phosphates, but you need both nitrates and phosphates for biopellets to work (as with any carbon dosing)

3. Tumbling. Are your pellets tumbling?

4. Timing...Biopellets are slow. Need to establish bacteria. I would easily give it three months. Have you noticed pellets being consumed?

5. Plumbing. I wouldn't think your plumbing is an issue, assuming the outflow from the biopellets isn't a firehose. It appears the tee allows excess flow from the biopellets to exit into that sump chamber. I would think your setup is ideal. That all said, the exit of my biopellet reactor was an inch or so from the skimmer pickup. Hard to see with the clear acrylic tube coming from the biopellet reactor:

If you feel the tee is an issue, looking like it's very close to the baffle, take it off and cut that end of the tee off so there is more clearance between the opening and the baffle. My thought is that any excess biopellet water is shooting out that end directly into the baffle and now back into the tee. After just typing that, sounds a bit far fetched, but I'd still try it, it can't hurt

shermoen · Mar 5, 2021

I'm not very hip on the api kits either and I will be getting a new Nitrate kit soon. As for phosphate I had to start testing with an old api kit that is out of date even, and it's been testing at .25 and 0 from day to day. I'm very scepticle on that test but fortunately have a hanna checker showing up today for that!! I did move the skimmer away from the baffle so it's not hugging it anymore and if the problem still persist I will cut that tee off some and see what happens. As for timing with the biopellets, I will patiently await them to show signs of Nitrate reduction, this tank from the beginning has been a test of my patience and its finally over the 10 month ugly stage, so what's another month or 2.

shermoen · Mar 5, 2021

The hanna phosphate checker is reading 0.00 but my nitrates are up in the 40 range. Should I continue the running biopellets or wait until I get some phosphates.

This has been an ongoing issue of mine in all tanks, where my nitrates are high but I have low or no phosphates for some reason. I do feed moderately 2 times a day and its mostly flakes but will change it up with pellets, nori, and frozen from time to time. My system is 120 with 2 tangs, 1 foxface, 1 wrasse, 1 pajama cardinal, 1 lawnmoer blenny, and 1 tailspot blenny. Filtration is protein skimmer and biological (90lbs rock and 3 or 2 inch sandbed)

What can cause my nitrates to be so high and untraceable phosphates? And what is the best option from here? I setup a frag order last week that is getting delivered tomorrow of mostly sps but now Im concerned I wont be able to keep them alive, DUMB mistake on my part.

redfishbluefish · Mar 5, 2021

Probably the easiest and less expensive way would be to dose phosphate. You could do multiple and large water changes, but you'd be looking at hundreds of gallons, if not into the thousands, to drop that nitrate number. I just did a search on phosphate dosing, and THIS THREAD looks like a good start.