Charles Zinn
Active Member
So is all the most important to watThis is what has worked for me
Is Alj the most important? What is next? Found that if I put in magnesium it would drastically change my Alk and Cal
So you want to grow beautiful acropora huh? Take a tip, leave a tip.
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Kalkwasser is most important bc it keeps my ph elevated
arussellnsg
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I bought some SPS but not specifically Acro. So far, my SPS is not going well. I lost a birdnest and probably a setosa. I wanted to see if I could sustain anything of the sort. Guess I'm good with RFA, mushrooms, Duncan, Acan, and some palys
BTimms
Active Member
What is the reef spectrum study? Have a link?
Charles Zinn
Active Member
Yea that's been a problem. Usually about 7.8
OREGONIC
Well-Known Member
My last tank I had up for about 5 years, never could keep acros alive for more then 2ish months, all LPS did great. It was my first tank and I think many noob mistakes early on led to the tank never developing the proper foundation for future success. I also experimented with different equipment chasing numbers and success.
My newer tank has been up and running for 11 months. I started out with a little seeded rock from the prior tank as well as some seeded rock from 2 other reefers long term tanks all in the sump. All the rock for the scape was man made rock. I dosed tons of bacteria and some ammonia daily for the first few weeks. After the cycle was complete I let it run for another few weeks and introduced chaeto. During this time I slowly stocked my fish from previous tank to new tank. Within a month I started introducing acros and have had zero issues. The tank is simple, refugium, skimmer, and a calcium reactor. No filter socks, occasionally run floss for a day or two just to polish. I also recently started dosing kalk as alk uptake increased to offset low ph of reactor. I dont think I have lost a single stick the entire 11 month of it being up and running. It has not been without its challenges, dinos that I combated with uv and bacteria and a few other small bumps but all the sticks have thrived. I attribute the success to simplicity, not making chasing parameters if they sway a little, starting with a variety of live rock from successful tanks for good foundation, and implementing changes such as introducing kalk slowly.
My newer tank has been up and running for 11 months. I started out with a little seeded rock from the prior tank as well as some seeded rock from 2 other reefers long term tanks all in the sump. All the rock for the scape was man made rock. I dosed tons of bacteria and some ammonia daily for the first few weeks. After the cycle was complete I let it run for another few weeks and introduced chaeto. During this time I slowly stocked my fish from previous tank to new tank. Within a month I started introducing acros and have had zero issues. The tank is simple, refugium, skimmer, and a calcium reactor. No filter socks, occasionally run floss for a day or two just to polish. I also recently started dosing kalk as alk uptake increased to offset low ph of reactor. I dont think I have lost a single stick the entire 11 month of it being up and running. It has not been without its challenges, dinos that I combated with uv and bacteria and a few other small bumps but all the sticks have thrived. I attribute the success to simplicity, not making chasing parameters if they sway a little, starting with a variety of live rock from successful tanks for good foundation, and implementing changes such as introducing kalk slowly.
UnderseaOddities
Well-Known Member
@Riotjj21 because ime that's how most mix up as a base I use fritz marine pro reef salt(blue box)and it has an alk of 10 to 10.2 when mixed to 1.025 outta the box ...by the time it sits is added to system and is watered down
I do 25% to 35% wc daily so added to the system it causes the alk to raise to high 8s temporarily. But here's the trick freshwater is getting added to the sump while your draining the systems waste so your actually adding like 3% rodi to that 25 to 35% u just did during the minute or two it took u to drain out the water. The system is getting freswater which in turn will water down and dilute that fresh saltwater u just made to a alk of 8.9 or so(you have to have your own method and know your sump levels) you then test the alk again and add freshwater to dilute to the desired ratio, after your alk is at the desired level your dosing regimen will keep the water stable once you figure out your daily nutrient uptake(cal mag alk,trace minerals) and nutrient output(no3 po4)
The solution is dilution!as well as replace chealated trace minerals
Waterchange with the high alk base water at a given ratio depending on watervolume and desired numbers then top off with freshwater if necessay,knowing how or if u need to dilute is key imho
But on the subject of the alk I'm not saying you cant run the alk that high. but most people that are using that salt are probably not using it as is directly but diluting before or during wc or running high nutrient systems to begin with so they can use it right outta the box without topping off freshwater
I do 25% to 35% wc daily so added to the system it causes the alk to raise to high 8s temporarily. But here's the trick freshwater is getting added to the sump while your draining the systems waste so your actually adding like 3% rodi to that 25 to 35% u just did during the minute or two it took u to drain out the water. The system is getting freswater which in turn will water down and dilute that fresh saltwater u just made to a alk of 8.9 or so(you have to have your own method and know your sump levels) you then test the alk again and add freshwater to dilute to the desired ratio, after your alk is at the desired level your dosing regimen will keep the water stable once you figure out your daily nutrient uptake(cal mag alk,trace minerals) and nutrient output(no3 po4)
The solution is dilution!as well as replace chealated trace minerals
Waterchange with the high alk base water at a given ratio depending on watervolume and desired numbers then top off with freshwater if necessay,knowing how or if u need to dilute is key imho
And some people like to push things to the max this isnt good unless you have the output(no3 po4 alot of fish poop) to support it otherwise your tips will burn certain pieces will stn rtn green tricolor will become just green any coral with blue will become totally blue purples purple some dull out others die ,but even then what's the point chasing those numbers or even attempting this sure you'll get growth but you'll lose color or coral,which is worse?... when this happens some people will panic(everyone is guilty of this in the past ) which is a no no and adjust the water chemistry and kill what they have left, you shouldnt change your whole system around for one coral if the rest are doing fine and one is being fickle... things happen.
But on the subject of the alk I'm not saying you cant run the alk that high. but most people that are using that salt are probably not using it as is directly but diluting before or during wc or running high nutrient systems to begin with so they can use it right outta the box without topping off freshwater
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UnderseaOddities
Well-Known Member
@Charles Zinn Metal halide, and t5 mix is closest thing to sun af far as lumens cri ppfd, led and t5 would be for optimum coloration or mh and led would be the best of both worlds a programable sun... you may want something high tech like a radion or kessil that is dimmable or programmable to replicate nature, with the t5 you should have to replicate daylight ,ramp your lights .start with blue then turn all lights on then mid say turn off blue then turn both on for a little bit turn on just blue for a little while then blast with coral plus and actinic to replicate a sunset then go back to the blue for a few mins, ligh5s out a broad mixed spectrum of 10k 12k 15k 18k 20k for optimum coloration coral fluoresce the most under 400ish nm blues,growth happens with the reds @600nm to 800nm, as well as knowing par ppfd cri lux lumens nm penetration of each individual light
willieboy240
Active Member
Find your rhythm with the sps aquarium. Then don’t touch it and let it do it’s thing. It took me a very long time to figure out what equipment works with what and just leave it be. Set the lights, flow, testing, dos. Etc. then just watch and adjust very little.
traggy
New Member
Your right there . Went to our LFS on Monday . Had a big shock didn’t spend anything .Will make up for that next week .
Acroporas have a wide light range. If the light source is adjusted correctly in this range, then many other moments can be caused by death. I have never acclimatized my new acroporas and have not lost a single one in all the time.
The Hanna checker will be a game changer for you.
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