@ISpeakForTheSeas do you know the type of sponge in post 40?
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Not specifically, no - it's a tube/rope/finger sponge of some variety, but to get a proper ID on it would likely require microscope pics of the spicules with and without spongin present (and no guarantees I'd be able to recognize the sponge from the spicules, unfortunately).@ISpeakForTheSeas do you know the type of sponge in post 40?
Anyway, here’s a good Sponge ID resource for anyone who’s interested- as mentioned, though, sometimes DNA is the best indicator for telling sponges apart:
https://www.fao.org/3/i7773e/i7773e.pdf And, here’s a decent example of why sponge ID by non-microscopic sight is not always reliable:
https://www.researchgate.net/figure...rating-variations-in-shape-and_fig6_248716402
I have a very similar setup going on this build. No skimmer or mechanical filtration. Refugium with caulerpa mexicana in it. and I've recently converted the old skimmer location to a large cryptic zone. No sponge growth in the cryptic zone yet. What are the chemi pure and matrix for?I do not run a skimmer nor do I perform water changes. I don’t use filter roller, socks, or any mech filtration. My only filtration is my live rock, algae turf scrubber, and a cryptic zone in my sump with various whitish or yellow “mound sponges” , 3@ sandbed, various worms. I have a chemi pure bag and matrix bag on a shelf also in the sump between chambers 2 and 3. No snails or crabs in the cryptic zone.
Due to the combination of refugium and sponges I will actually have very low overall nutrients in the tank. The macro uses up nitrate and phosphate and secretes dissolved organic carbon into the water. That DOC is in turn consumed by sponges. Even though I will be feeding heavy as I get more fish the macros and sponges will be removing just as much.Very cool build. Was that a Blue Hippo Tang? I don't think they are ideal for a sponge ecosystem which will likely run very nutrient high.
What are the chemi pure and matrix for?
Was using chemi pure in the 90s. Was using it recently too. Old habits die hard but now switching to ROX. Seems a lot cheaper so I will see how that goes.Chemipure - I just always used this stuff for over a decade. I feel it’s good to help polish water and remove certain impurities
Matrix is a biological media that holds bacteria, I just keep this to seed other tanks that I startup
Was using chemi pure in the 90s. Was using it recently too. Old habits die hard but now switching to ROX. Seems a lot cheaper so I will see how that goes.
Been using pumice (matrix) but now trying Fluval FX biological. Larger pore structure. Looks like a plausible substitute and this way I’m actually paying for something manufactured vs relabeled potting media.
You can see below how the blue die infiltrated the media. Hopefully pores large enough not to clog with biofilm.
![]()
I'll have to checked that out. Looks promising plus I'm also looking to trap detritus and let it decompose.I’ve heard that the matrix pores are too small. But I’ve used it successfully and many others have too. I just had some extra laying around so I threw it in a media bag and leave it in. It’s aluminum free
For new build I bought this and have them seeding in another tank
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
I've been doing a continuous culture. No crashes and very minimal maintenanceAs far as Phyto, are you running a continual culture, or do you restart the culture periodically and clean and sanitize the culturing container?
I just run a rigid airline into my cultures, and they get very dark after a week or so. I think it usually depends on how much fertilizer I use per gallon.
Eventually I plan to experiment with a CO2 diffuser in the culture to see if it increases density.As far as Phyto, are you running a continual culture, or do you restart the culture periodically and clean and sanitize the culturing container?
I just run a rigid airline into my cultures, and they get very dark after a week or so. I think it usually depends on how much fertilizer I use per gallon.
I've been doing a continuous culture. No crashes and very minimal maintenance
I'm not sure. I need to purchase a microscope and learn to identify themNannochloropsis occulata?