SPS help!! Bleaching or RTN..advice..

[Alexopora]

I’ve had acros stink up the bag from 15 mins from my house, last thing I’d do is dip it for an hour for the 8dkh in the bag to match the 9 in my tank..like I said if you want to drip acclimate do it but it’s not necessary, lots of people float dip and drop without repercussions. As far as I’m concerned it’s a personal preference, there’s no evidence to show either or is better that I’ve come across..I’d love to see documented proof that shows what’s better if it’s out there. Just trying to help this guy out with his frags.

Ultimately its up to OP to decide which method works better. In terms of acclimating method, I do the same as you. Temperature acclimate them then drop the newbies into the QT. I’ve come to the conclusion that a few hours of drip acclimating won’t be that much different than putting the coral immediately into the tank.

 

[Southern Fishing Co.]

Ok one more question.....will the tissue regrow on the skeleton or is what its lost gone for good and I should frag off the small parts that still have flesh and polyps?

 

[Greg P]

Can I ask what you base that off of? No one would tell you to change alk by over 1 dkh in a day or calc by over 100 in a day so why would it be necessary to do it within a couple hours max to a coral that’s been sitting in a stagnant bag of waste for potentially 48 hours? once you open the bag it’s only going to stress the coral out more sitting in that water with oxygen being introduced. Wouldn’t it be better to get it into fresh flowing water instead of having it sit in toxic water for a few hours then exposed to chemicals? THEN put in the tank

Sorry for the late reply
I base that response off personal experience, but only local purchases, so should have stated that.
As per your other comment about even just 15 mins in a bag polluting water, I've experienced that as well, especially with 'slimer' varieties, but never lost any due to my acclimation procedure. Otherwise I wouldn't have suggested it

There is no hard and fast method and each of us will/will not have success employing each method.

I've always closed-bag floated to temp, then dripped, then dipped in DT water followed with a rinse in DT water, then into the DT they go.
Only time I've lost corals this way was with critters that don't like dips, such as Hawkins Echinata

 

[Greg P]

Ok one more question.....will the tissue regrow on the skeleton or is what its lost gone for good and I should frag off the small parts that still have flesh and polyps?

From personal experience, regrowth will depend on the coral species.
I've had some never grow back when the skeleton is covered in algae, and even keep receding away from the algae.
But I've had some that have repopulated it.
Keep an eye on your's. If it keeps receding as algae grows, cut it back.

 

[NatureHold]

Where did you get the frags from? If they were wild caught or mari-cultured they have a slim chance of surviving in a tank anyways, let alone a newish tank.

It is not impossible to keep SPS in a tank of your age. My tank is about the same age as yours +/- and I am successfully growing SPS. I did get a couple of frags that did not make it (might have been fragging procedure on 1 and the other was wild caught, no surprise on RTN there), but the rest have been fine and are growing. The key as previously stated here is stability in Alk/CA/Mag & Nitrate/Phosphate. Diligent monitoring and control will reward you with great results.

 

[Timich]

What’s your mag? Alk is probably too high like people are saying with that low of n+p and it really isn’t really necessary to drip your corals, just float to temp, dip then into the tank..

I know it's a old post but came across due to sps dying lol. Anyways I totally agree. Not a single casualty of any coral I bought so far and been just floating, dipping, and putting in tank.