Stabilizing my tank - getting ready for first acros

[Max93]

Hello,

I’m looking to get a good sized box of acros from battlecorals in the next 2 months, or whenever my tank stabilizes.

background:

220 gallon


tank only has zoas, 1 acan, 1 toadstool. Tank has been active for 1 year and 5 months. 15 fish.

lights: T5 hybrid with 4 hydra 32s.
par: reads at 280 on the sand bed, to 580+ at the highest point of the tank.

lights ran from: 1pm to 11pm, LED only
3pm -930pm with T5s and LED at full power.


Parameters:

alk - 7.7 every time I test
Calcium - 380 every time I test (raise this?)
Magnesium - 1170 - always fluctuates.
phosphates - 0.02
Nitrates - 5
SG - 1.026
Salt mix: Red Sea blue bucket

I am going to start dosing Aquaforest products component 1, 2, and 3 once acros are introduced and I figure out consumption.

I run a large ATS - maybe this is eating up the magnesium?

I recently started dosing vodka because I’ve always had issues with stable nutrients. The best tank I ever had in the last 16 years was a 25g lagoon that I was vodka dosing. I want to replicate my results from that lagoon. I’m thinking of taking the turf scrubber offline since I am dosing vodka.

Equipment:

filter socks (clog every day and replaced daily, very annoying).

regal 200 int skimmer

2 4K gyres
2 octo 4s

my goal is to keep alk at 7.7 or lower, magnesium at 1350, and calcium at 420. I always have an issue with this but I am hoping that Aquaforest products will get me there.

my intentions are to drop 10-12 acros in at the same time, with a monti cap or two. Later down the road I will add a couple euphyllia and fill any gaps with zoas.
I have been at this tank very slow, as I have already come across a lot of challenges (ich) which has been resolved.

I also run a 57w UV with about 1100 gallons per hour flowing through it. It’s been over a year and a half almost, and I am looking forward to adding acros and not killing them.

any tips or flaws that you see here?

testing is all done with salifert except for phosphates, I use the Hannah ULR. Refractometer for SG

 

[ScottB]

You have been patient enough I think, so you should be okay. At least some of them should stick around.

How big are your fish and how often do you feed them. I am guessing you are feeding enough given the clogging socks. My favorite method is heavy in heavy out with a large fish load. That seems to keep my sticks the happiest.

 

[Max93]

You have been patient enough I think, so you should be okay. At least some of them should stick around.

How big are your fish and how often do you feed them. I am guessing you are feeding enough given the clogging socks. My favorite method is heavy in heavy out with a large fish load. That seems to keep my sticks the happiest.

Thanks for the comments!

I have the following fish and their sizes:

yellow eye Kole tang - full grown I believe
Hippo tang - 5”
3 lyretails - full grown
2 clown fish - 1” and 2.5”
Yellow tang - 3”
Midas blenny - 5”
Yellow watchman goby - 2”
Yellow coris wrasse - 3”
2 fairy wrasses - 4”
One spot fox face - 7”
Convict tang - 4.5”

I feed half a sheet of nori a day.
1 mysis cube a day
Good sized chunk of rods food once a day

 

[bnord]

Appreciate your slow and steady approach

I have the following suggestions. Start your 3 part now. Clear your Ca test is either inaccurate or too low, (salt mix
?) Mg is low and your statement that it fluctuates is not my experience, it trends more than swings, again test kit?
As to Alk, there is no consensus, but I have been convinced with reading and practice that a higher dkh (8.0 - 9.5) has a positive impact on pH, one of the stats you did not supply and critical for SPS.

So... compare your test results with an LFS for accuracy?
Start your dosing now to get those SPS sensitive numbers stable?

Lastly, and from personal experience, buy a few hardy frags first - get a frag rack to get them used to your light and add a few at a time from there

And please do not start with Green Pocillopora... it is worse that Xenia, in my experience
Best of luck

 

[Max93]

Appreciate your slow and steady approach

I have the following suggestions. Start your 3 part now. Clear your Ca test is either inaccurate or too low, (salt mix
?) Mg is low and your statement that it fluctuates is not my experience, it trends more than swings, again test kit?
As to Alk, there is no consensus, but I have been convinced with reading and practice that a higher dkh (8.0 - 9.5) has a positive impact on pH, one of the stats you did not supply and critical for SPS.

So... compare your test results with an LFS for accuracy?
Start your dosing now to get those SPS sensitive numbers stable?

Lastly, and from personal experience, buy a few hardy frags first - get a frag rack to get them used to your light and add a few at a time from there

And please do not start with Green Pocillopora... it is worse that Xenia, in my experience
Best of luck

Hi!
Thank you for your feedback. To answer your questions:

salt: Red Sea blue bucket
Tests: all completed with salifert, double test every time to check results, 380 on first attempt and 380 on second attempt.

I haven’t tested PH, but I will make sure I do as I don’t own a kit for Ph.

 

[homer1475]

With nitrates at 5 and phosphates at .02 carbon dosing is going to have very little effect. Your basically phosphate limited.

I would just let the tank ride as is, up the mag to around 1250, cal to around 420, and let it ride. If nutrients start spiking, then look into carbon dosing. But at this point carbon dosing is going to have little effect on your nutrients.

Have an FTS for comparisons sake?

 

[homer1475]

I haven’t tested PH, but I will make sure I do as I don’t own a kit for Ph.

If I didn't own an apex with a PH probe, I would never even know what it is. With live rock, and arogonite sand, it will never drop below acceptable range. If it did, the sand would start to dissolve, increasing PH back to an acceptable range. Besides it's nearly impossible to drop that low with the amount of alkalinity we keep in marine tanks.

With that said, if you want to chase that dragon, then by all means go for it. You will notice improved growth as a result. I have a rather full tank, so I'm not looking to maximize growth with chasing PH numbers.

 

[JCM]

With nitrates at 5 and phosphates at .02 carbon dosing is going to have very little effect. Your basically phosphate limited.

I would just let the tank ride as is, up the mag to around 1250, cal to around 420, and let it ride. If nutrients start spiking, then look into carbon dosing. But at this point carbon dosing is going to have little effect on your nutrients.

Have an FTS for comparisons sake?

I agree with this. Your nutrients are in a good spot, if they've been consistent I wouldn't start carbon dosing and risk dropping them too low.

I also don't think it's wise to get SPS and then start dosing carbon and aquaforest products (assuming these aren't for the big 3, I'm not familiar). Either start all this well before introducing SPS, or wait until a need arises. They may lead to instability that you don't want.

Also, if you want a montipora, start with that before dropping big bucks on a dozen acros. Not mandatory, but may save you alot of money.

 

[ScottB]

Thanks for the comments!

I have the following fish and their sizes:

yellow eye Kole tang - full grown I believe
Hippo tang - 5”
3 lyretails - full grown
2 clown fish - 1” and 2.5”
Yellow tang - 3”
Midas blenny - 5”
Yellow watchman goby - 2”
Yellow coris wrasse - 3”
2 fairy wrasses - 4”
One spot fox face - 7”
Convict tang - 4.5”

I feed half a sheet of nori a day.
1 mysis cube a day
Good sized chunk of rods food once a day

Very good fish list. Love them all. Spoil them with more food.