Stock tank sterilization

  • Thread starter Thread starter xradikalx
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

xradikalx

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 10, 2019
Messages
62
Reaction score
22
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey all,

I built out a water change station using 2 side by side 55 gallon stock tanks located in the 'fish room' behind my display, shown here:

1758806871854.png


This picture doesn't show my magdrive pump hooked up on the lower left to move water from one area to another. The RO water goes into the first one on the right. By changing the valves, I can them pump RO water into the second tank, which I then add salt to. Thus, I keep a ready made reservoir of salt water and RO water for any needs that may arise! I have a plumbed in 40g breeder which I have drilled a bulkhead near the bottom, so I can just open that, drain the 40g breeder, and then turn the valve on to the system to add the new salt water. It's great, water changes take all of 15 minutes.

Now - for the problem!

When I built out this system, I chose these semi-opaque white tanks so that I can see the water level. Well, it still lets too much light in. Much to my dismay, I went to do water change yesterday and found that dinos had colonized the entirety of the inside of the tank. The wall of the tank which is exposed to ambient light from the main display has a nice furry wall of brown dinos.

Now, I know that step 1 is I am going to wrap the whole mixing station in blackout curtains. It doesn't need light, and this would prevent further outbreaks. However, I am wondering about sterilizing the tank. What would anyone recommend for this to eradicate the current colonization, but also wouldn't introduce harmful chemicals into the system later during water changes? Bleach would be too risky, in my opinion. Muritiatic acid would probably kill it, and with a good rinse out or two, wouldn't have much long lasting harm? Or, would you just do blackout curtains and assume they die off and can't regrow?

Thanks!
 
I think this the first I have heard of dinos in a RO/DI system. Have you checked your RO/DI unit lately? Sounds like it may be time to replace from filters/cartridges.
Anyhow, as far as cleaning. A good vinegar bath and scrub will take care of it, plus any residual vinegar that may not have evaporated or been wiped out will not harm the tank. You could also dilute bleach at 50/50 and scrub it out that way, only use plain, regular bleach. Not the concentrated or splashless stuff because that has added chemicals which are harmful.
 
Thanks for the reply.

I should have clarified - the dinos are only in the pre-mixed salt water tank on the left. The RO/DI water is in the tank on the right and it remains clean and clear with 0 TDS from the RO unit.

I like the idea of vinegar, since it shouldn't harm the tank if there is a little residual vinegar left over!
 
Hey all,

Just an update on how this has gone.

I ended up doing the following:

Drained the mixing tank. Filled with tap water and 1 gallon of 12% hydrogen peroxide.Fi Let this circulate 24 hours. Drained. Let tank sit dry for 1 week.

After a week, filled with tap water again. Another gallon of 12% hydrogen peroxide. Let circulate 6 hours. Drained tank.

Filled with tap water and allowed to circulate for 24 hours. Drained.

Filled with RO/DI water. Mixed salt to tank salinity (1.026)

I purchased blackout curtains and used a staple gun to cover the entire mixing station (quite proud of the fit!) so no more light = no more photosynthesis.

Since doing all of this, I have not had any more dinos/algae in the mixing tank! That has been a total win.

The only downside I have noticed, and I'm not sure if it's due to all of the above:
Previously, I would watch my ORP after a water change. Usually, when my ORP dropped to 325, I knew it was time for a change. I would do a 10-20% change, and the ORP would go up to 375-400. After the protocol above, I have done 2 water changes. Both times, the ORP has dropped, instead of rising. So now my ORP sits around 260-270. I am somewhat confused, because I would anticipate with the hydrogen peroxide, if anything, the ORP would rise. But that's not what I'm seeing.
 
Only other difference - I changed from using Fritz RPM salt to Tropic Marin salt. Not sure that would have a large effect on ORP, however

-grammar
 
Last edited:
When I do a water change my ORP drops but then starts to rise again. I run ozone in my tank so would expect any freshly mixed saltwater to have lower ORP. My situation may not be comparable but wanted to provide a datapoint.
 
I agree, when I do a water change, I typically see a sharp drop, but then it trends up. Usually this levels out at a higher baseline. With my most recent changes, however, it drops sharply (as expected), but I don't see it trend back up.

Certainly with ozone I'm sure it recovers nicely, but I'm not currently running ozone. Always more equipment to consider! hah
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

ARE YOU READY TO CONFESS TO CRAZIEST, DUMBEST, FUNNIEST THING YOU’VE EVER DONE IN REEFING?

  • Yeah, I'll confess! (Share your story in the comments!)

    Votes: 61 55.5%
  • Nah, I'll keep mine a secret...(Don't be like that, share with the class!)

    Votes: 49 44.5%
Back
Top
Home
Post thread…
Market
What's new