Struggling to keep the chemistry stable in my QT

[Peekay]

I have 4 new guys (2 snowflake clowns, 1 yellow prawn goby, and 1 flame hawk) in a cycled 20g tall QT. I just put the Salifert Ammonia Alert Badge in the tank last night. My flame hawk and goby are eating frozen voraciously. My clowns don't seem to be interested (well, they'll take a look, and sometimes take a pellet then spit it out) in food - which worries me.

I did the API ammonia test and I registered 0.25 - 0.50 ppm last night and did a quick 15% water change. My trouble is, I feel like keeping the chemistry stable in the QT is waaay more difficult than keeping it stable in the 100g display (obviously, due to difference in volume). I don't want to treat with Prazipro until I see my clowns eat consistently.

I guess I need to be talked off the ledge here on just rolling the dice and putting my QT residents in the DT. No signs of ich or other distress (knock on wood).

PK

 

[dwest]

I have 4 new guys (2 snowflake clowns, 1 yellow prawn goby, and 1 flame hawk) in a cycled 20g tall QT. I just put the Salifert Ammonia Alert Badge in the tank last night. My flame hawk and goby are eating frozen voraciously. My clowns don't seem to be interested (well, they'll take a look, and sometimes take a pellet then spit it out) in food - which worries me.

I did the API ammonia test and I registered 0.25 - 0.50 ppm last night and did a quick 15% water change. My trouble is, I feel like keeping the chemistry stable in the QT is waaay more difficult than keeping it stable in the 100g display (obviously, due to difference in volume). I don't want to treat with Prazipro until I see my clowns eat consistently.

I guess I need to be talked off the ledge here on just rolling the dice and putting my QT residents in the DT. No signs of ich or other distress (knock on wood).

PK

It’s been a long time since I’ve used API ammonia test, but when I used it, it never read zero. I would trust the ammonia badge. Keep quarantining the fish. Don’t add to DT. It’s not worth it.

 

[Firemanreefkeeper]

Add some denitrifying bacteria to bring down ammonia. 4 fish in a 20 gallon tank is a big jump even if cycled.

 

[Peekay]

Thanks all - I added Fritz TurboStart 900 to help get it through the initial cycle. Maybe I'll look to get another bottle. I was also reading about free ammonia v. 'not free?' ammonia, and how certain test kits measure ALL ammonia, where we only need to be concerned about free ammonia? I'm coming off the ledge.

 

[Cruz Mc5]

You can also add some Seachem Prime to deal with the ammonia as your cycle catches up.

 

[Peekay]

You can also add some Seachem Prime to deal with the ammonia as your cycle catches up.

I suppose I was looking for an excuse to head to my LFS!

 

[lapin]

For QT I use 2ea 10 gallon tanks and do the TTM. This means I change tanks every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks. I squirt a bit of Prime in the tank in case of ammonia build up. Prazi after they are eating. I serve up live white and black worms with fresh hatched brine. I mix in a bit of MetroPlex in the last week of feeding. I never seem to get any ammonia build up. They then go in the observation tank which is a fully cycled 55g for a week or 2. It has a sponge filter.

 

[cracker]

peekay, You rally need to go to your LFS !
all advice above sounds good to me. Also in the future consider a quality Am test kit.
I think a lot of peeps will suggest the Hanna Am checker. I need one myself !