Don't combat. Observe.
Trace amounts of most all elements are also present in foods.
Including your sandwich.
Trace amounts of most all elements are also present in foods.
Including your sandwich.
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how’s does one combat this?
Glenn adds rose minerals back in via dosing. not conincidently , he has a product line to do so.I guess less water changes. Or none at all like me and some others do. Like glennf or paul b.
Glenn adds rose minerals back in via dosing. not conincidently , he has a product line to do so.
Paul does lots of water changes. Unless the supermodels aren't at the beach that day.
Sometimes I have used azithromycin when cyano becomes problematic. It works with 1.0 mg / liter in a single dose. It takes 02 to 04 days to remove cyanobacteria in the tank. In that dosage does not affect the animals or the biological filter, in my experience.
The usual presentation is 500 mg tablets. The tablet is cut in the approximate dosage, according to the volume of water of the aquarium, and the piece of tablet is thrown on the display, in a place of good water movement. The tablet (Clindal AZ 500 mg by Merck lab) disintegrates by itself and spreads like a very fine powder all over the aquarium.
It is advisable to turn off the skimmer for two days and remove activated carbon from the system, while not cyano-controlled.
Best Regards
I do not trust KH2PO4 because in my opinion it bring potassium accumulation in the tank.
Lol I wasn' aware Paul does them. Glen Iirc just adds back what he tests for no?
The standard treatment is chemiclean.
It might, but would take a lot. You would need to add the equivalent of 10 ppm of phosphate to cause a 1% change in potassium (4 ppm rise).
That said, I'm not sure why people use that instead of sodium phosphate. I recommend the sodium version if you can get it.
Redfield's verification was of the mineral composition in the plankton, not in the water containing it. Redfield's ratio is not the "goal to achieve", just one finding.
The condition that favors the "growth" of cyanobacteria is the imbalance that ever inhibits competition. After the bloom, due to the imbalance, the cyanobacterium is maintained by its means, being better able than the competitors in the use of a poor environment in nutrients.
This is how I see it.
Redfield's verification was of the mineral composition in the plankton, not in the water containing it. Redfield's ratio is not the "goal to achieve", just one finding.
The condition that favors the "growth" of cyanobacteria is the imbalance that ever inhibits competition. After the bloom, due to the imbalance, the cyanobacterium is maintained by its means, being better able than the competitors in the use of a poor environment in nutrients.
This is how I see it.
I ended up stopped dosing MB7, Vibrant, changed out Carbon, Sediment and DI Resin from RODI unit and increase flow a little and cyano is gone! I also vacuumed my sump detritus.
My tank is only a few months old....is it normal to get cyanobacteria??? First I cycled my tank took a while maybe couple months.....the added couple fish snail and some coral Dyno went away then started getting cyanobacteria I do 5 gallon water change every week on fluval Evo 13.5. plus take out cyanobacteria when I can with a turkey baster I add bacteria I have waste away and eco balance and clear up only use as directed and one bacteria at a time within 48hours ...just tough it almost goes away at night then comes back when lights on ....I'm new to reefing...what can I do to help???? Not as bad after my water change yesterday .... should I hook skimmer up??? I read that with constant water changes u don't need a skimmer.... I don't feed a whole lot but gonna cut feeding down.... Need helpYou may not want to hear this but cyano is a symptom of a greater problem, having good flow, and water changes dont help the issue, cyano will still grow on whatever in your tank, whether your lights are on too much, or you don't have a good nutrient export system, maybe even cut back on feeding. I know this because I'm dealing with cyano/dinoflagllaetes Atm, and I have cut back on just about everything yet it still persists. The only way to stop it is to find the root of the problem, sure you can use chemiclean as a last ditch effort although that doesn't do much if you are looking to get rid of it for good
My tank is only a few months old....is it normal to get cyanobacteria??? First I cycled my tank took a while maybe couple months.....the added couple fish snail and some coral Dyno went away then started getting cyanobacteria I do 5 gallon water change every week on fluval Evo 13.5. plus take out cyanobacteria when I can with a turkey baster I add bacteria I have waste away and eco balance and clear up only use as directed and one bacteria at a time within 48hours ...just tough it almost goes away at night then comes back when lights on ....I'm new to reefing...what can I do to help???? Not as bad after my water change yesterday .... should I hook skimmer up??? I read that with constant water changes u don't need a skimmer.... I don't feed a whole lot but gonna cut feeding down.... Need help