Suddenly having issues with Cyanobacteria

[saltyfilmfolks]

Don't combat. Observe.

Trace amounts of most all elements are also present in foods.

Including your sandwich.

 

[Cory]

how’s does one combat this?

I guess less water changes. Or none at all like me and some others do. Like glennf or paul b.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I guess less water changes. Or none at all like me and some others do. Like glennf or paul b.

Glenn adds rose minerals back in via dosing. not conincidently , he has a product line to do so.

Paul does lots of water changes. Unless the supermodels aren't at the beach that day.

 

[Cory]

Glenn adds rose minerals back in via dosing. not conincidently , he has a product line to do so.

Paul does lots of water changes. Unless the supermodels aren't at the beach that day.

Lol I wasn' aware Paul does them. Glen Iirc just adds back what he tests for no?

The standard treatment is chemiclean.

 

[Cory]

Fwiw i had cyano once. What made it worse was dosing trace elements. What made it go away overnight was using phosban phosphate remover.

Now iron oxide po4 remover will remove po4, but also a lot of other elements too. So that could be an effective way to control it if your not interested in chemiclean.

 

[Pette]

I'm also struggling with cyano. Many italian experts say that these are in the system and appear when phosphate is 0,00 and nitrate is detectable or the opposite: the ratio should instead be 1 (PO4) to 10 (NO3). Then they recommend: strong movement, frequent water changes, do not administer amino acids, remove carbon sources and add phosphate (KH2PO4) or nitrate (KNO3).
Now, I removed all the Aquaforest products I used (amino, vitamins and -NP), removed phosphate resins, changed frequently water, dosed bacteria, add new fish and the result was in 3 months: nothing.
I do not trust KH2PO4 because in my opinion it bring potassium accumulation in the tank.
H2O2 3% can be dangerous if you use Iodine supplement (and this is in all solutuions for balling).
Last week i used Royal Red Slime Remover: much of the cyano have disappeared but remained red-brown patches at the points where the coat was thicker.
Given what Saltyfilmfolks wrote at beginnig, are not they (just) cyano?

 

[Jose Mayo]

Sometimes I have used azithromycin when cyano becomes problematic. It works with 1.0 mg / liter in a single dose. It takes 02 to 04 days to remove cyanobacteria in the tank. In that dosage does not affect the animals or the biological filter, in my experience.

The usual presentation is 500 mg tablets. The tablet is cut in the approximate dosage, according to the volume of water of the aquarium, and the piece of tablet is thrown on the display, in a place of good water movement. The tablet (Clindal AZ 500 mg by Merck lab) disintegrates by itself and spreads like a very fine powder all over the aquarium.

It is advisable to turn off the skimmer for two days and remove activated carbon from the system, while not cyano-controlled.

Best Regards

 

[Pette]

Sometimes I have used azithromycin when cyano becomes problematic. It works with 1.0 mg / liter in a single dose. It takes 02 to 04 days to remove cyanobacteria in the tank. In that dosage does not affect the animals or the biological filter, in my experience.

The usual presentation is 500 mg tablets. The tablet is cut in the approximate dosage, according to the volume of water of the aquarium, and the piece of tablet is thrown on the display, in a place of good water movement. The tablet (Clindal AZ 500 mg by Merck lab) disintegrates by itself and spreads like a very fine powder all over the aquarium.

It is advisable to turn off the skimmer for two days and remove activated carbon from the system, while not cyano-controlled.

Best Regards

Probably because the azithromicin (like erithromicin) attacks the Gram+ bacteria and in our tanks there are the Gram-

This complex discourse leads me to believe that not all cyano are what they seem: they are probably often associated with dynos: you eliminates one and remain the other.
In Italy against the dyno people use Dyno X (Fauna Marin), which, by the way, also reduce cyano.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I do not trust KH2PO4 because in my opinion it bring potassium accumulation in the tank.

It might, but would take a lot. You would need to add the equivalent of 10 ppm of phosphate to cause a 1% change in potassium (4 ppm rise).

That said, I'm not sure why people use that instead of sodium phosphate. I recommend the sodium version if you can get it.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Lol I wasn' aware Paul does them. Glen Iirc just adds back what he tests for no?

The standard treatment is chemiclean.

Glenn adds a massive amount of iron as a phosphate binder, precipitating iron phosphate.

 

[Pette]

It might, but would take a lot. You would need to add the equivalent of 10 ppm of phosphate to cause a 1% change in potassium (4 ppm rise).

That said, I'm not sure why people use that instead of sodium phosphate. I recommend the sodium version if you can get it.

Thank you very much.
But where do I buy it?
What is the chemical formula?
***
However, my question is that: is the redfield relationship so important?
Probabably no.
If yes, why tanks with higher phosphates and higher nitrates not in ratio 10:1 don't normally shows cyanos?
Also, because cyano and dynos seems to be connected although?
Are we missing some (strange) passage in the nitrogen cycle?
Is it not possible that cyano to arise when nitrogen is insufficient for the entire bacterial population?
We all know that they are magnificent opportunists....
However, why raise the organic load does not seem to produce effects?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

The Redfield ratio should not be considered as a goal for nutrients in the water.
It makes no sense, IMO, if one is excessively low, for the other to also be excessively low. And the same for excessively high values.

They should be independently targeted to an appropriate value.

Here's a food grade sodium phosphate:
https://www.amazon.com/Disodium-Phosphate-FOOD-GRADE-Purity/dp/B013TQVSVQ

 

[Jose Mayo]

Redfield's verification was of the mineral composition in the plankton, not in the water containing it. Redfield's ratio is not the "goal to achieve", just one finding.

The condition that favors the "growth" of cyanobacteria is the imbalance that ever inhibits competition. After the bloom, due to the imbalance, the cyanobacterium is maintained by its means, being better able than the competitors in the use of a poor environment in nutrients.

This is how I see it.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Redfield's verification was of the mineral composition in the plankton, not in the water containing it. Redfield's ratio is not the "goal to achieve", just one finding.

The condition that favors the "growth" of cyanobacteria is the imbalance that ever inhibits competition. After the bloom, due to the imbalance, the cyanobacterium is maintained by its means, being better able than the competitors in the use of a poor environment in nutrients.

This is how I see it.

I agree.

 

[Pette]

Redfield's verification was of the mineral composition in the plankton, not in the water containing it. Redfield's ratio is not the "goal to achieve", just one finding.

The condition that favors the "growth" of cyanobacteria is the imbalance that ever inhibits competition. After the bloom, due to the imbalance, the cyanobacterium is maintained by its means, being better able than the competitors in the use of a poor environment in nutrients.

This is how I see it.

Great!!!
Low nutrients-imbalance-ability to avercome.
That's what I was trying to say: they are hungry for nitrogen and they manage to better use what's there. In my personal experience, (maybe) when the level of NO3 is high, the cyano resist if there is little PO4.

 

[CoralReefer1019]

I ended up stopped dosing MB7, Vibrant, changed out Carbon, Sediment and DI Resin from RODI unit and increase flow a little and cyano is gone! I also vacuumed my sump detritus.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I ended up stopped dosing MB7, Vibrant, changed out Carbon, Sediment and DI Resin from RODI unit and increase flow a little and cyano is gone! I also vacuumed my sump detritus.

Glad to hear it cleared up.

 

[Michael ross1]

You may not want to hear this but cyano is a symptom of a greater problem, having good flow, and water changes dont help the issue, cyano will still grow on whatever in your tank, whether your lights are on too much, or you don't have a good nutrient export system, maybe even cut back on feeding. I know this because I'm dealing with cyano/dinoflagllaetes Atm, and I have cut back on just about everything yet it still persists. The only way to stop it is to find the root of the problem, sure you can use chemiclean as a last ditch effort although that doesn't do much if you are looking to get rid of it for good

My tank is only a few months old....is it normal to get cyanobacteria??? First I cycled my tank took a while maybe couple months.....the added couple fish snail and some coral Dyno went away then started getting cyanobacteria I do 5 gallon water change every week on fluval Evo 13.5. plus take out cyanobacteria when I can with a turkey baster I add bacteria I have waste away and eco balance and clear up only use as directed and one bacteria at a time within 48hours ...just tough it almost goes away at night then comes back when lights on ....I'm new to reefing...what can I do to help???? Not as bad after my water change yesterday .... should I hook skimmer up??? I read that with constant water changes u don't need a skimmer.... I don't feed a whole lot but gonna cut feeding down.... Need help

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

My tank is only a few months old....is it normal to get cyanobacteria??? First I cycled my tank took a while maybe couple months.....the added couple fish snail and some coral Dyno went away then started getting cyanobacteria I do 5 gallon water change every week on fluval Evo 13.5. plus take out cyanobacteria when I can with a turkey baster I add bacteria I have waste away and eco balance and clear up only use as directed and one bacteria at a time within 48hours ...just tough it almost goes away at night then comes back when lights on ....I'm new to reefing...what can I do to help???? Not as bad after my water change yesterday .... should I hook skimmer up??? I read that with constant water changes u don't need a skimmer.... I don't feed a whole lot but gonna cut feeding down.... Need help

Cyano is normal in the sense that many people have issues with it. It can be hard to deal with, but there are lots of threads on suggested ways.

Some ways to decrease cyano are more flow, fewer organics in the water (more skimming and other organic removal mechanisms), and in tough situations, antibiotics such as erythromycin.