Sump Layout Design Check

NotoriousENG

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Hello Everyone,

I've been working on designing a sump layout (my first one!) and wanted to gut check my design to make sure I'm not missing anything and that the sump won't flood. Some background on the system (disclaimer, this is a freshwater set up): 20 gallon long drilled for eclipse S overflow and return, aqueon 10-gallon aquarium for the sump, undecided return pump but likely the Jebao DCP-2500. I've included a sketch below (excuse the rough sketch).

sump layout.jpg


As for the design, I'm thinking a 3 baffle design should maximize my media space while still being relatively simple.
Chamber 1: Water in and coarse sponge. 5" wide, baffle overall height (including gap at bottom) is 10" with a 1.75" gap at the bottom for water outflow
Chamber 2: Heater chamber. 5" wide, baffle height is 8.25". I wish this chamber could be smaller but this size already has me placing the heater in at an angle
Chamber 3: Fine foam, ceramic bio media, and purigen. The baffle is the same as chamber 1
Chamber 4: Return pump

Flood protection math:
I measured the display tank's inside height at about 11.75 and the height from the bottom of the weir teeth to the top of the tank at 1.4. So dividing 20 gal by 11.75" gives about 1.7 gal per inch in the display tank. Then multiplying 1.7 gal/in by 1.4" gives a power outage drain volume of 2.38 which I rounded to 2.4 gal.

Moving to the sump, the inside height is 11.375". If we divide 11.375" by 10 gallons we get 1.1375 in/gal. Multiply that by 2.4 gives us a water rise of 2.73 inches. Add the water rise to the operating height of the fixed height chamber of 8.25 for a worst-case water height of 10.98" which is a bit tight on the 11.375 height of the sump since the above math doesn't account for water in the overflow box or lines. However, the height of the overflow from the tank top was measured right to the lip at the top, the actual water level will likely be lower. Also, I used the operating height of the fixed level portion of the sump and from my understanding, the right two chambers will have a lower water level which provides an extra safety net.

Does this reasoning and design sound correct? I really appreciate everyone's help!
 

lapin

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Wow.
With all that i would think you have it covered
 

PeterC99

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Lucky for most of us that we can buy the standard setup with these calcs figured out.

Always impressed when someone has the talent to figure out the calculus for these designs! Good luck and looking forward to reading about your build!
 
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NotoriousENG

NotoriousENG

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Wow.
With all that i would think you have it covered
Haha, as I newly graduated engineer I get a bit carried away with this stuff sometimes and tend to overcomplicated things. Part of the reason I ended up going with a sumped freshwater hi-tech planted tank...

Lucky for most of us that we can buy the standard setup with these calcs figured out.

Always impressed when someone has the talent to figure out the calculus for these designs! Good luck and looking forward to reading about your build!
Thank you! Like I said this is a freshwater tank but if people would be interested in the details I can definitely start a build thread.

A couple of more specific questions I forgot in my original post.

Is the 1.75" gap under baffles 1 and 3 large enough to flow freely?
For sizing the glass, I know I need to factor in a silicone gap on the pane widths. I've seen a couple of recommendations ranging from a 1/4" to a 1/16". Should I split the difference at a 1/8"? Should I also account for silicone height on the bottom of the sump for baffle 2?
 

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