Tall aquariums/reef tanks

My tank is only 29 inches tall and getting to the bottom to clean the bottom is a chore. I really like to clean all the algae that you can see at the bottom side glass and my arm is barely long enough. To me, not being able to physically reach the bottom of the tank is a hard “no”. I have to clean my 380 gallon tank 2-3 times a week and I have to spend more time than I want to.

Having to relay on scrapers on rods to clean the algae off the side walls will greatly increase cleaning time- perhaps 2-3 times longer. Plus’s it’s acrylic which will scratch very easily. Just something to think about.
 
My tank is only 29 inches tall and getting to the bottom to clean the bottom is a chore. I really like to clean all the algae that you can see at the bottom side glass and my arm is barely long enough. To me, not being able to physically reach the bottom of the tank is a hard “no”. I have to clean my 380 gallon tank 2-3 times a week and I have to spend more time than I want to.

Having to relay on scrapers on rods to clean the algae off the side walls will greatly increase cleaning time- perhaps 2-3 times longer. Plus’s it’s acrylic which will scratch very easily. Just something to think about.
My 30” cube is like that,
but I’m fine with it.
Once I got it arranged exactly the way I wanted I had never really have a need to reach the (bare) bottom …“where there’s a will…”
 
I have a three foot deep tank. The height gives it a very majestic and beautiful appearance. However, it is a challenge to maintain. Keep reaching tools handy. Make sure you have full access from above, I do not and wish I did
It would be in a room with ceilings at about 9’
 
thanks so much @UncommonSense

@Troylee is spot on!

Just checked the acrylic thickness suggested by the calculation tool (link below)

got 1.315". We always round up and not down. If we were commissioned to build this tank, we would use 1.5" thick walls and 1" thick bottom and euro-bracing top.

also with tall tanks, remember it will need maintenance. the tall the tougher.

Hope this helps.

https://www.acrylite.co/resources/calculators/aquarium-calculator
Thanks.
Can you comment on what might be a general “budget quote” cost for something like that?
 
Thanks.
Can you comment on what might be a general “budget quote” cost for something like that?
for sure.

about 14K.

Hope that helps.
 
Looking at lighting, if you are going with something like this, I would suggest looking at what Kessil has available in their Pro section. This is not A360/500… They do make a much stronger light that is track based and built in. It may be a bit more expensive, but if you are looking for that punch, this is the route I would go.
 
Looking at lighting, if you are going with something like this, I would suggest looking at what Kessil has available in their Pro section. This is not A360/500… They do make a much stronger light that is track based and built in. It may be a bit more expensive, but if you are looking for that punch, this is the route I would go.
Thanks.

Speaking of Kessil-
I noticed something when I was browsing/meandering at Reefapalooza NY.
Every time I found a display that looked exceptionally good (to me of course),
when I looked up to see what light was used it was ALWAYS a Kessil…

That was the first time I was able to see so many different displays using different lighting in one visit. Great way to compare in my mind.

I wasn’t there to compare lighting mind you…I already own some Reefi 2.1’s
 
Thanks.

Speaking of Kessil-
I noticed something when I was browsing/meandering at Reefapalooza NY.
Every time I found a display that looked exceptionally good (to me of course),
when I looked up to see what light was used it was ALWAYS a Kessil…

That was the first time I was able to see so many different displays using different lighting in one visit. Great way to compare in my mind.

I wasn’t there to compare lighting mind you…I already own some Reefi 2.1’s
I do know that Kessil has Fresnel lenses for some of their higher end lighting these days too…

These lenses are intended for applications where the lighting is mounted to the ceiling, multiple feet above the top of the tank; yet, the tank is still well lit and beautiful! — this specific design may be advantageous to employ as a “spotlight” which only illuminates the deeper sections of the tank!
 
I do know that Kessil has Fresnel lenses for some of their higher end lighting these days too…

These lenses are intended for applications where the lighting is mounted to the ceiling, multiple feet above the top of the tank; yet, the tank is still well lit and beautiful! — this specific design may be advantageous to employ as a “spotlight” which only illuminates the deeper sections of the tank!
😎
 
I recently talked builder regarding a tall tank for a project I was noodling over. Email exchange was fun because they focused a lot on structure strength and cost vs material waste. Helps both parties which I found insightful.

Long and short of it is that the height drove the material and material the cost. Once I had a couple of options I took it home and looked at what that meant for me keeping it. In short, scrapped that idea and going with a 102 x 30 x 30 or 96 x 30 x 30 for a couple of reasons none of which are related to flow or lighting.

Basically an empty tank can be worked on. Snorkel, mask, or even getting my scuba gear. Tank with rock can somewhat be worked on depending on the aquascape. Again not the end of the world. A tank 5 to 10 years later though with coral colonies can no longer be worked on even with scuba.

There is just no room for an adult body (unless you are a horse racing jockey I guess) to get in there. For a normal hobbyist budget that is. Not the extreme displays.

My point - empty tall display no problem. Builder suggested I look at my tank today and its age (8 years), coral size, then picture that in the new tank and that put it to rest.

Lighting - that can be solved. Kessil a500x + lens no problem. Atlas also works. Flow is easy as Tunze can solve that as well Abyzz.

What does the material, tank size, flow, and lighting have in common? Cost. It goes up pretty quickly when you start talking about reliability, safety, and life support.
 
I recently talked builder regarding a tall tank for a project I was noodling over. Email exchange was fun because they focused a lot on structure strength and cost vs material waste. Helps both parties which I found insightful.

Long and short of it is that the height drove the material and material the cost. Once I had a couple of options I took it home and looked at what that meant for me keeping it. In short, scrapped that idea and going with a 102 x 30 x 30 or 96 x 30 x 30 for a couple of reasons none of which are related to flow or lighting.

Basically an empty tank can be worked on. Snorkel, mask, or even getting my scuba gear. Tank with rock can somewhat be worked on depending on the aquascape. Again not the end of the world. A tank 5 to 10 years later though with coral colonies can no longer be worked on even with scuba.

There is just no room for an adult body (unless you are a horse racing jockey I guess) to get in there. For a normal hobbyist budget that is. Not the extreme displays.

My point - empty tall display no problem. Builder suggested I look at my tank today and its age (8 years), coral size, then picture that in the new tank and that put it to rest.

Lighting - that can be solved. Kessil a500x + lens no problem. Atlas also works. Flow is easy as Tunze can solve that as well Abyzz.

What does the material, tank size, flow, and lighting have in common? Cost. It goes up pretty quickly when you start talking about reliability, safety, and life support.
All great points… some that I hadn’t considered
True about the coral, but I would certainly lean into considering FOWLER for such a tall aquarium
 
They’re just less versatile for any given volume of water

Consider stocking a 20 tall vs a 20 long. A 20 tall might be difficult to stock with anything but inverts but you could get 2-3 nano fish into a 20 long depending on scape and filtration
 
All great points… some that I hadn’t considered
True about the coral, but I would certainly lean into considering FOWLER for such a tall aquarium

Fish only would be an option but then it becomes a vertical vs horizontal swim lane and fish size challenge.
 
Think through your maintenance carefully. You might think it’s fine if you have tools that can reach down low enough, but how are you gonna get that coral frag that’s fallen off and is wedged under one of the rocks at the bottom? When you have an outbreak of bubble algae, how are you gonna pull it out down the bottom of the tank when your snails are flipped? Who’s gonna flip them back when you drop one of those dang rubber mountings from the tunze pump?

All these things are regular occurrences that you might not think of when you’re first planning things out.
 
When I said think through maintenance carefully, I mean better than I thought through the punctuation in that last post!
 
for sure.

about 14K.

Hope that helps.
Is there a majority cost to manufacture?What I mean is- material vs. labor cost.

I’m guessing the bulk of cost is in the acrylic, not the labor to cut/build?

Perhaps this factor probably slaves to size and shape of said aquarium …
 
Is there a majority cost to manufacture?What I mean is- material vs. labor cost.

I’m guessing the bulk of cost is in the acrylic, not the labor to cut/build?

Perhaps this factor probably slaves to size and shape of said aquarium …

I can't speak for GC but can comment on a quote I recently received for a tall tank. It was material requirements for anything over 30". Acrylic thickness. Labor didn't change at all at least for the builder I am talking to.
 
Is there a majority cost to manufacture?What I mean is- material vs. labor cost.

I’m guessing the bulk of cost is in the acrylic, not the labor to cut/build?

Perhaps this factor probably slaves to size and shape of said aquarium …
I know I recently got quoted $75/ft2 for mere 1/2” cell cast acrylic…

I can’t even imagine what 1.25” thick acrylic costs per-ft2!
 
I always wondered why there aren’t more “flat packs” available.
In fact I see NONE available

It would save tons on shipping ( much smaller package than an huge box or rectangle) and no labor cost since your building it yourself.

Also no liability on the manufacturer…
Put it together poorly with bad seams and leaks and “that’s on you”
 

WHICH PART OF YOUR SETUP IS HARDEST TO REACH OR REMOVE FOR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE?

  • Glass behind or beside the tank

    Votes: 12 18.5%
  • Powerheads or wavemakers

    Votes: 5 7.7%
  • Sump or rear filtration chambers

    Votes: 9 13.8%
  • Skimmer or other filtration equipment

    Votes: 9 13.8%
  • Overflow or plumbing

    Votes: 11 16.9%
  • Lights or lids

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Mine is pretty easy to access!

    Votes: 18 27.7%
  • Other—tell us what I missed

    Votes: 1 1.5%
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