Tank concerns

[AmaleeC]

Hello everyone! It’s good to be back online once more So I’ve had a few issues here and there with my tank that I’ve worked through but I’ve got the same problem. Phosphates are too high (2.0 ppm) , pH is too low (7.6 - 7.8 range) and the water is super cloudy. Any help?

I’ve been trying a few different things in regards to filtration to get the water to clear up. At the moment in my filter I have filter floss, a sponge, purigen, carbon, and phosguard.

 

[DraggingTail]

Tell us more about your set up. Is it a tote full of water or a reefer max. Or something in between?

 

[W1ngz]

Cloudy water is usually bacteria. Are you adding or dosing anything to the tank?

Low pH is usually caused by high CO2 in the air, it's not so much a tank problem. Can you open some windows or run a bathroom exhaust fan for a few days?

High phosphates is likely caused by over feeding or not exporting enough. Is there a skimmer? How often do you change the filter floss?

 

[Tahoe61]

No skimmer? Size and age of tank please.

Welcome Back

 

[AmaleeC]

Sorry for the lack of additional information.

Information on the tank:
currently own a Waterbox 20 with no skimmer, or fancy equipment besides and ATO. I added a filter caddy in the first box, where I keep my filtration and converted the center box into a mini refugium (bio balls, chaeto, a little light, and a sponge). The last box is where the pump is. I’ve had the tank up since October 2019.

Misc Info: I’ve tried taking a “natural” route in regards to filtration and letting the tank adjust on its own. But I didn’t have much success so I decided to add in some new filtration which has been very efficient in lowering the phosphates, and dropping ammonia to 0. So it’s the thing I’m least concerned about.

In regards to pH: It has been a real pain to get my pH right and I’ve been adding Seachem Marine Buffer to raise the pH. I haven’t seen too much of a difference since I started using this. I also pointed the nozzle of the pump up a little to get some good surface agitation, and good airflow. It’s helped slightly.

My phosphates: The new filtration has been very efficient in lowering the phosphates.

Welcome Back

Usually I just silently stalk the forums when my tank is doing well LOL But thanks!

Tell us more about your set up. Is it a tote full of water or a reefer max. Or something in between?

With the issues it gives me, if feels like I own a tote full of water ;Hilarious

 

[AmaleeC]

I change the filter floss whenever I feel it needs to be replaced. I feed my lawnmower blenny some Nori every other day, so I replace it at least twice a week.

 

[DraggingTail]

Sorry for the lack of additional information.

Information on the tank:
currently own a Waterbox 20 with no skimmer, or fancy equipment besides and ATO. I added a filter caddy in the first box, where I keep my filtration and converted the center box into a mini refugium (bio balls, chaeto, a little light, and a sponge). The last box is where the pump is. I’ve had the tank up since October 2019.

Misc Info: I’ve tried taking a “natural” route in regards to filtration and letting the tank adjust on its own. But I didn’t have much success so I decided to add in some new filtration which has been very efficient in lowering the phosphates, and dropping ammonia to 0. So it’s the thing I’m least concerned about.

In regards to pH: It has been a real pain to get my pH right and I’ve been adding Seachem Marine Buffer to raise the pH. I haven’t seen too much of a difference since I started using this. I also pointed the nozzle of the pump up a little to get some good surface agitation, and good airflow. It’s helped slightly.

My phosphates: The new filtration has been very efficient in lowering the phosphates.



Usually I just silently stalk the forums when my tank is doing well LOL But thanks!



With the issues it gives me, if feels like I own a tote full of water ;Hilarious

Tank needs to simply sit and stabilize. IMO. My tank sat with everything running, live rock and a dead shrimp for 3 month. If I had it to do over again, I would keep adding shrimp for bioload and wait for my rocks to get calcareous before even adding a fish.

Way less stress. Not to burst your bubble. Just setting realistic expectations

 

[DraggingTail]

I change the filter floss whenever I feel it needs to be replaced. I feed my lawnmower blenny some Nori every other day, so I replace it at least twice a week.

Like I said, needs to mature. I don't even run filter socks, floss, just a bag if carbon in the sump.

Can we see a pic? Are you bare bottom?

 

[Greg P]

What are you using to test your pH?
I'd recommend you STOP adding pH buffers.
If you keep doing so, there's a good chance you'll raise your Alk level so High you won't be able to read it with a decent test kit.

Low pH can happen for a number of reasons, and adding buffers is not the right way to go.
It's all about gas exchange and photosynthesis critters in your tank.

Cloudy water could possibly be a bacterial bloom.

Regardless of what's going on, sounds like your tank needs some oxygen.

Point your powerheads at the surface to heavily disturb/break the surface to oxygenate the water.

And STOP adding things to your tank until you've had time to learn from the crew here

Your new tank will take time. Just go with it

 

[AmaleeC]

Way less stress. Not to burst your bubble. Just setting realistic expectations

Lol as much as I appreciate you letting me know, please feel free to burst my bubble. It’s a tough hobby as is, I’ll take good advice wherever I can get it.

 

[AmaleeC]

What are you using to test your pH?
Point your powerheads at the surface to heavily disturb/break the surface to oxygenate the water.
And STOP adding things to your tank until you've had time to learn from the crew here

I’m using the API master kit and will adjust the power heads when I get home from work.

I don’t mind waiting for the tank to adjust, it’s just the cloudy water that’s been really annoying. I can add more beneficial bacteria as I own some bacter7. But idk if that’ll fix the issue.
I had cloudy water in one of my FW tanks for MONTHS. I changed the light from a spectrum with red, white, and blue to an all white spectrum and it cleared in less than two days. Should I try changing the color spectrum for a few days on my SW too? Or no?

I was talking to someone else for advice and they mentioned how a lot of my filtration cancels out one another. Should I take out what’s in my filter now? Or no?

The first one is a before pic, the second one is the tank currently.

 

[Radman73]

I definitely feel like you're trying to do too much without knowing how you are affecting the tank. I'd stop dosing anything, do a nice water change, and only run some carbon for a bit. Give it some time and it should clear up on its own.

FWIW, I ran my tank at 7.8-7.9 for years with no ill affects. You could always add a skimmer and run the airline for the skimmer to a garage or tucked into the corner of a cracked window(not realistic in some locations).

 

[WildChurchMonkeys]

What are you using to test your pH?
I'd recommend you STOP adding pH buffers.
If you keep doing so, there's a good chance you'll raise your Alk level so High you won't be able to read it with a decent test kit.

Low pH can happen for a number of reasons, and adding buffers is not the right way to go.

+1. Buffers mainly increase your alk and as a byproduct raise your PH for a short while. I’d stop using the buffer, test for alk/ca and do a WC.

 

[AmaleeC]

Yeah, I could definitely see that as an issue. I’ve been doing massive water changes with not much improvement in water clarity.

So in addition to changing the direction of the power heads, I’ll also remove everything I have for filtration except the carbon. Can I leave filter floss in there? It catches all the seaweed my fish don’t eat.

 

[W1ngz]

Another vote for no more ph buffer. Those pics really look bacterial, and bacteria need a source of carbon which is common in a lot of magic 'stuff' that people pour into their tanks.

Try a bathroom fan or window if you can. Like I said above, pH is normally more associated with the CO2 levels in the air, and not so much to do with the tank unless your alk is too low. If you can maintain ph at or above 7.8, move on to other things and don't worry about it.

Filter floss is fine to leave in, but you should be changing it on a pretty strict schedule like twice a week and not just when it looks nasty. Old food that rots in the filter floss is no different than food that rots in the tank.

 

[AmaleeC]

Thanks guys! I’ll put it all into play when I get home

 

[AmaleeC]

Just wanted to update everyone on this: I went on vacation for a few days and while I was away, magic happened. My pH is now at a perfect 8.3, salinity is perfect 1.025, and the cloudiness? I came home, turning the lighting to the white daytime spectrum, and realized it’s a phytoplankton bloom. I bought a UV sterilizer to clear the water. Thank you all for your help!

 

[W1ngz]

Now that you're home, you'll probably notice the pH dropping off again from 8.3, since there's people breathing CO2 into the house.

 

[AmaleeC]

Now that you're home, you'll probably notice the pH dropping off again from 8.3, since there's people breathing CO2 into the house.

Thank you, that makes a lot of sense. We even took the dogs with us so oxygen must’ve been really high. Looks like the score remains as is. Tank: +2, myself: 0. I’ll be monitoring the pH and probably adding an oxygen stone

 

[W1ngz]

pH is about CO2, not oxygen. Adding an airstone won't alter the pH, since the air comes from the room. The CO2 in the water will always be relative to the air, and an air stone will just speed up the process of it balancing itself.

You need more fresh air in the room (open windows or an exhaust fan), or take skimmer air from a line that goes outside.
If none of those are good options, a CO2 filter on the skimmer is something to research if you continually have pH lower than 7.8.

The last option is no more breathing in the house, but that may have undesirable side effects...