Tank crashing
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DarthSimon
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You can just use the Calcium part of your 2 Part Solution for now...
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Damprid, unscented.
Mix a tablespoon into a cup of tank water. It will cause an exothermic reaction with water, so stir until it is dissolved and slowly add to your sump. It will bring your calcium up quickly.
I think the corals that are stringy are probably not going to recover. It appears like an LPS brown jelly issue, IMO. Yes your parameters are off and need to be fixed (SLOWLY), but tissue loss in these cases is from a pathogen, I believe.
What do others think?
#reefsquad
Mix a tablespoon into a cup of tank water. It will cause an exothermic reaction with water, so stir until it is dissolved and slowly add to your sump. It will bring your calcium up quickly.
I think the corals that are stringy are probably not going to recover. It appears like an LPS brown jelly issue, IMO. Yes your parameters are off and need to be fixed (SLOWLY), but tissue loss in these cases is from a pathogen, I believe.
What do others think?
#reefsquad
DarthSimon
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Need some questions answered also, lighting, age of the tank.... plus tank parameters....
DarthSimon
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Stay calm, you will be ok.... Run some carbon... What is the total water volume in your tank?
Rick.45cal
2500 Club Member
You run GFO? What is your phosphate (PO4) levels at? What are your nitrates (NO3)? Did you recently change the carbon/GFO before the tank started to decline?
I would first be sure that the low Calcium is 'real' ie check it with another test. Before trying to raise it - check your Magnesium - if thats low - you're going to have precipitation when you bump it up. Most people dose equal amounts of Ca and All. If you dose them differently - it can easily cause precipitation - which can then lower both - especially with a low Mg.This has been going on since last week. I have done water changes. Calcium is around 350 maybe a little less. Is this recoverable? Any suggestions on what to do?
I would never dose 2 part unless you can measure both parts (ie Ca and Alk).. Hopefully you get an answer.
Rick.45cal
2500 Club Member
I’d stop doing waterchanges, remove your GFO and start dosing Nitrates and Phosphates (you need to figure out what your phosphate levels are at). Your water is too clean and the corals are starving.
Rick.45cal
2500 Club Member
You also need to know you carbonate hardness. All of these factors result in really unhappy corals
Sarah24!
2500 Club Member
Hello,
The most important thing to do which others have expressed is test your alk, and other parameters. Having 0 ammonia and nitrites is good. Having zero phosphates and nitrates is not good at all. Your alk should be at 8 and cal at 440 and all tanks vary. But generally speaking it’s 8 and 440 for those. Make a trip to your lfs and have them test your water, if you have none try the local aquarium. If you don’t have either option, you should be keep this on hand for such situations. Corals usually react to something that has happened days or weeks ago.
Pics would help, do you have sps, lps softies etc. Are any of the fish (if you have any) reacting to this? I would also dim the lights, (which ones do you have, I saw it was mentioned sooner). You have to raise alk and cal SLOWLY because it will also have to large of a swing and kill your corals.
Try and place your lights back on acclimation start something running carbon only and personally I would stop the gfo if phosphates are at zero. The corals need food and your water is too clean and your starving them. I would also as you slowly raise your alk and cal I would feed your corals with reef roids or marine snow.
The most important thing to do which others have expressed is test your alk, and other parameters. Having 0 ammonia and nitrites is good. Having zero phosphates and nitrates is not good at all. Your alk should be at 8 and cal at 440 and all tanks vary. But generally speaking it’s 8 and 440 for those. Make a trip to your lfs and have them test your water, if you have none try the local aquarium. If you don’t have either option, you should be keep this on hand for such situations. Corals usually react to something that has happened days or weeks ago.
Pics would help, do you have sps, lps softies etc. Are any of the fish (if you have any) reacting to this? I would also dim the lights, (which ones do you have, I saw it was mentioned sooner). You have to raise alk and cal SLOWLY because it will also have to large of a swing and kill your corals.
Try and place your lights back on acclimation start something running carbon only and personally I would stop the gfo if phosphates are at zero. The corals need food and your water is too clean and your starving them. I would also as you slowly raise your alk and cal I would feed your corals with reef roids or marine snow.
I would start with small water changes and see if that helps. A problem with running gfo also is it will mess with your alk. To much carbon esp Rox can strip your water fast and cause problems to. Simple is better just do water changes and get your test kits.
You can raise your calcium 50ppm in a day without issue. So from 350 to 400 would be fine. As suggested you should check nitrate and phosphate and stop running gfo. If your nitrates are truly 0 you’re starving you’re coral.
Stigigemla
Well-Known Member
Its many bad advices in this thread.
Panic crashes more tanks than anything else.
The only thing You can do at first is the usual waterchanges so change 10% each day until the tests has arrived.
Big waterchanges can shock Your corals so dont change more each time but do it every day.
Test the exchange water for salinity and temperature.
Dont do anything if You dont know whats wrong.
You need to test for temperature, salinity, Ca, Mg and most of all kH. Salifert tests are cheap and good enough.
If You use an electronic thermometer check it against one oldfashioned.
If You have swing arm hydrometer throw it away. You will probably get a better value licking on a finger with a little water .
In the next round - when Your values are good You should test for nitrate and phosphate. Salifert tests are good enough for a beginner but there are some better tests for those who have more money.
There is no way to have a succesful SPS tank without these tests. There are many ways to keep the good values but You cant do it without knowing.
Panic crashes more tanks than anything else.
The only thing You can do at first is the usual waterchanges so change 10% each day until the tests has arrived.
Big waterchanges can shock Your corals so dont change more each time but do it every day.
Test the exchange water for salinity and temperature.
Dont do anything if You dont know whats wrong.
You need to test for temperature, salinity, Ca, Mg and most of all kH. Salifert tests are cheap and good enough.
If You use an electronic thermometer check it against one oldfashioned.
If You have swing arm hydrometer throw it away. You will probably get a better value licking on a finger with a little water .
In the next round - when Your values are good You should test for nitrate and phosphate. Salifert tests are good enough for a beginner but there are some better tests for those who have more money.
There is no way to have a succesful SPS tank without these tests. There are many ways to keep the good values but You cant do it without knowing.
I find it at ace hardware. I'm in CT but try calling around.
IMHO - you are 'guessing' and dosing without knowing what is going on - and you may be doing more harm than good. You need to know your MG, your Ca and your Alk. If the Mg is low - dose Mg (likely its ok - but if its low and you add Ca/Alk - it may just precipitate). If you are dosing 2 part - are you dosing it at the same rate? Are you sure you mixed it correctly? Are you sure your Ca test is correct? I would tend to correct Alk and Ca together by altering your 2 part.
IMHO - adding pickling lime without knowing your alkalinity is a big mistake - especially if you're adding it quickly. Alk should increase NO MORE than 1 dkh in 24 hours - and probably best to do in divided doses. There is a calculator on BRS that will tell you how much to add - based on your tank volume your current Alk and yoru goal Alk.
You said you're doing large water changes - are you using RODI water - tap water? Are you letting the salt mix for the appropriate time (i.e. the salt I use recommends letting it mix overnight - with a pump. Others say use within 4 hours.)
One last piece of advice. Dont dose (or try to remove) something for which you're not testing - i.e. using GFO without checking PO4 is a recipe for disaster. As is dosing (whatever alkalinity supplement you're using).. It would be nice if you could answer these questions. In the mean time good luck.
PS - you can 'fix' your PO4 and nitrate by feeding a bit more. If you dont want to 'dose'.
IMHO - adding pickling lime without knowing your alkalinity is a big mistake - especially if you're adding it quickly. Alk should increase NO MORE than 1 dkh in 24 hours - and probably best to do in divided doses. There is a calculator on BRS that will tell you how much to add - based on your tank volume your current Alk and yoru goal Alk.
You said you're doing large water changes - are you using RODI water - tap water? Are you letting the salt mix for the appropriate time (i.e. the salt I use recommends letting it mix overnight - with a pump. Others say use within 4 hours.)
One last piece of advice. Dont dose (or try to remove) something for which you're not testing - i.e. using GFO without checking PO4 is a recipe for disaster. As is dosing (whatever alkalinity supplement you're using).. It would be nice if you could answer these questions. In the mean time good luck.
PS - you can 'fix' your PO4 and nitrate by feeding a bit more. If you dont want to 'dose'.
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