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not sure what the actual question is but..in my experience managing a glass business is that butt glazing glass is a strong application if done properly with a 1/16 to 1/8 space between the glass..being a 120 tank its never a bad bet to use ever precaution in more stability..wet glaze the corners or even a aluminum or stainless corner trim..hope that helps.
Thanks for the advise. I was thinking a stainless corner trim .instead of cross bar .not sure what the actual question is but..in my experience managing a glass business is that butt glazing glass is a strong application if done properly with a 1/16 to 1/8 space between the glass..being a 120 tank its never a bad bet to use ever precaution in more stability..wet glaze the corners or even a aluminum or stainless corner trim..hope that helps.
how tall is the tank and what thickness glass did you use?Thanks for the advise. I was thinking a stainless corner trim .instead of cross bar .
also is the glass tempered or annealedhow tall is the tank and what thickness glass did you use?
Thanks for the advice. Cross bar is the thing.I think you are talking about a cross brace on the top? I will tell you from experience, if it pops, your whole week (and maybe more) will be spent trying to clean and dry your home. Imagine tipping over 4-30 trash cans full of water at the same time. And not just water but saltwater. It will instantly go everywhere!!!!
Cheers! Mark
Ah, my mistake then at 24" high you need 0.625 glass or 16mm. thickness. If you rim it you can get away with 0.375" or 10mm thickness.
thats some good silicone..i would do corner braces to insure corners stay strong..1/2" anneled glass is ok for what you have..i agree with TJ that floating the bottom with a pad is good for distribution
I had a doubt. I should definitely rim it.Ah, my mistake then at 24" high you need 0.625 glass or 16mm. thickness. If you rim it you can get away with 0.375" or 10mm thickness.
I should rim all corners. might think of padding the bottom as well.at the moment I have used 1 inch regiform on the bottomthats some good silicone..i would do corner braces to insure corners stay strong..1/2" anneled glass is ok for what you have..i agree with TJ that floating the bottom with a pad is good for distribution
Thanks for the advice. I have used 1 inch regiform on the bottom. Do you think it will be sufficient. Please advice .For a 120 rimless with roughly 12" of water hight ime youd want 1/2" thick glass. When you build rimless you also generally float the bottom to change your load bearing seams a bit. If this is how you constructed ypur good to go.
Float the bottom means the sides go around the bottom piece not connected on top of it. With a rimmed tank the sides attach on top of the bottom on a rimless the sides connect on the sides of the bottom piece aka the bottom floats between the sides. Basically the construction process is different right from the beginning so you either build one or the other. A floated bottom tank with no rim is usually placed on a pad to help with even load bearing where a tank with the bottom panel for support is placed on a rim for ridgid support all the way around.Thanks for the advice. I have used 1 inch regiform on the bottom. Do you think it will be sufficient. Please advice .
I wish I knew this before building .but when I built my tank I have put 2 glass on the bottom.Float the bottom means the sides go around the bottom piece not connected on top of it. With a rimmed tank the sides attach on top of the bottom on a rimless the sides connect on the sides of the bottom piece aka the bottom floats between the sides. Basically the construction process is different right from the beginning so you either build one or the other. A floated bottom tank with no rim is usually placed on a pad to help with even load bearing where a tank with the bottom panel for support is placed on a rim for ridgid support all the way around.
I wish I knew this before building .but when I built my tank I have put 2 glass on the bottom.Float the bottom means the sides go around the bottom piece not connected on top of it. With a rimmed tank the sides attach on top of the bottom on a rimless the sides connect on the sides of the bottom piece aka the bottom floats between the sides. Basically the construction process is different right from the beginning so you either build one or the other. A floated bottom tank with no rim is usually placed on a pad to help with even load bearing where a tank with the bottom panel for support is placed on a rim for ridgid support all the way around.
You have three pieces of glass on the bottom stacked up?
I didn't know any of this thanks for the support it's better I cover the rims and put a cross for the safe .there this easy way to build a tank I went with whole new hard way.You have three pieces of glass on the bottom stacked up?
I am very confused by what your trying to communicate but maybe ive just never seen what your refering to. You cannot stack glass together to add strength. If you have layers of glass load is transferred to each individually in turn but they dont really add to eachother. Its not like building with wood where you can bolt together (2)2 by 4s instead of buying one 2 by 6 etc. So, if each layer is at least 10mm and theres no gaps between layers causing stress points (you dont want your tank loaded on a bead of silicone for example) you should be fine, if you stacked up glass and used two 6mm pieces to add up to your 12mm the tank is very likely to fail. I wish youd asked these questions before building as well, i would definitely help a new tank builder to a good start.
If your doing a center brace you want to use glass theres not really a good way to make a lasting glass to acrylic connection to hold the constant force that will be exerted.