Temperature Controller for EVO 13.5

[kiteski14]

What is the cheapest temperature controller I could get for my EVO 13.5. I currently have a 100W Heater, is it possible that I could have the heater plug into a controller and monitor the temperature closely or would I need to get a different heater that works with the controller. If anyone has a used one, I'm on a tight budget!

Thanks

 

[Greg P]

Inkbird appears to be the current least expensive and reliable controller.

BRS has a new one but there's controversy about it's tight range of operation.

Set your heater a couple degrees above your desired temp and let the controller turn it off. This way the heater always comes on right away. But don't set it too high in case the controller sticks on.

What brand/model is your heater?

 

[jda]

Get a Ranco. They are reliable and long lasting.

The best thing is that your heater has a thermostat and then the controller does too... this way, both have to fail in the "on" position to nuke your tank and I don't think that I have ever seen a confirmed case of a Ranch failing "on."

 

[Greg P]

Get a Ranco.

I would have suggested the same, but the OP is looking for a budget controller

 

[jda]

They are budget... or a lot cheaper than replacing your livestock if a cheap heater sticks on. Nobody can afford to be cheap with heaters.

 

[Greg P]

They are budget... or a lot cheaper than replacing your livestock if a cheap heater sticks on. Nobody can afford to be cheap with heaters.

So what you are saying is that all the members using Inkbird and BRS controllers are at risk??

 

[jda]

Too many failures with InkBird to think otherwise. I don't know enough about BRS and am happy to let other people test them out for a few years.

 

[kiteski14]

Inkbird appears to be the current least expensive and reliable controller.

BRS has a new one but there's controversy about it's tight range of operation.

Set your heater a couple degrees above your desired temp and let the controller turn it off. This way the heater always comes on right away. But don't set it too high in case the controller sticks on.

What brand/model is your heater?

This is the heater that I have, Amazon product

As I mentioned it's an EVO 13.5 and I'm trying to keep it pretty simple and budget friendly. I told myself when I started that I wouldn't spend more than $1000 unless it was reoccuring costs such as RODI water. I'm trying my best to stay under that and so far I'm at about $900 and the tank is close to what I'm looking for it to be. I don't really need much more and just want to keep it simple but I know that temperature consistency is important

 

[Greg P]

This is the heater that I have

Not knocking your heater of choice, but maybe instead of spending bucks on a controller, consider purchasing an Eheim heater to replace that GMsound one you bought.
Or get a controller now, and replace the heater when your budget allows.

Standing an Eheim up in the back without fully submerging it will have it last many years.
I have a 100w in my mixing tank that's been laying flat for years and has moisture in it, but still runs - with a ground probe and gfci.
I have Eheims in my sump that are 8 and 9 years old. They are vertical without being submerged above the water mark and still pass a testing annually.

What's your water level in the back where it doesn't fluctuate?

 

[kiteski14]

There's about 4 or 5 inches in the back where it doesn't fluctuate. It's a tight compartment in the 13.5 so I need one that will fit, any recommendations?

 

[Greg P]

There's about 4 or 5 inches in the back where it doesn't fluctuate. It's a tight compartment in the 13.5 so I need one that will fit, any recommendations?

Only 4 or 5 inches Vertically? That can't be right.
If your tank is 11 or 12" tall, the back chamber must be much deeper in height than 4-5 inches ...

 

[kiteski14]

Only 4 or 5 inches Vertically? That can't be right.
If your tank is 11 or 12" tall, the back chamber must be much deeper in height than 4-5 inches ...

Oh I thought you meant the height that it was out of the water. It's about a foot high

 

[Greg P]

So, measure the water depth of your 'heater' section, and go to the LFS with a tape measure. Open some boxes and make sure that a 50, 75, or 100 watt Eheim Jager will fit in that chamber properly with the waterline in mind. Only the waterline on the new heater matters. No need to fully submerge the whole head.

Anyway, it's just my preference to use Eheim.

If you want to work with the heater you have now, get a controller and, as I mentioned awhile back, you can change your heater later.

 

[Saybng]

So which model inkbird controller do you do you guys recommend?