Tenecor's $29* ReefPoint® 3 Gallon DIY Frag Kit Drops This Thursday

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stephnjeph

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I had actually thought about that. I originally ordered the tank to plumb into one of my systems and ordered the sump on a whim thinking "why not a stand alone". When the tank and sump had a manufacturing error I just took that as a sign that I should have followed my original plan. It's no problem really. Just disappointed in the quality a bit. I already started the plumbing remodel to fit the frag tank into one of my current systems. I feel that it will suit my needs better anyway. Thanks for the input!
 

whybenormal

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sump is opaque black right? Can you bond a patch of acrylic over the logo on the inside? Definitely nonideal but should be watertight.
I thought about that, or trying to use weldon inside the letters? I don't have any black acrylic - this is my first attempt at a diy aquarium, and first time bonding acrylic ever.
Where would I get it?
 

dansyr

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I thought about that, or trying to use weldon inside the letters? I don't have any black acrylic - this is my first attempt at a diy aquarium, and first time bonding acrylic ever.
Where would I get it?
That's a pretty fast leak from the E, wow. If you're applying patch on inside you could probably use clear (usually a little cheaper). I've gotten mine at home depot for some projects before and it's pretty cheap. Or, dare I say... sacrifice the cool little tenecor rectangle ornament they sent with the frag tank box?
 

whybenormal

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That's a pretty fast leak from the E, wow. If you're applying patch on inside you could probably use clear (usually a little cheaper). I've gotten mine at home depot for some projects before and it's pretty cheap. Or, dare I say... sacrifice the cool little tenecor rectangle ornament they sent with the frag tank box?
Ok, I didn't think about the fact that it doesn't have to be the exact same acrylic.
My husband made my aquarium lids, and I know there were scraps, but he just said he threw it all away. Darn.
I did think about the little Tenecor rectangle - I just don't really want to sacrifice it, lol.
 

Lochekey

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I thought about that, or trying to use weldon inside the letters? I don't have any black acrylic - this is my first attempt at a diy aquarium, and first time bonding acrylic ever.
Where would I get it?
Lowes or Home depot carry small pieces of acrylic. If you have a local "glass house" (think window repair or building supply store) they usually have acrylic available as well.
 

demonclownfish

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I'm sure that @Tenecor Aquariums will address this in short order once they see this.

Like any new product, especially in test runs such as this, production errors are gonna happen unfortunately.
Oh I had no doubt they were unaware of the depth of the cut in the acrylic, just a weird thing to see and I know they'll get it squared away
 
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Tenecor Aquariums

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Oh I had no doubt they were unaware of the depth of the cut in the acrylic, just a weird thing to see and I know they'll get it squared away
WOW again on this. Anyone with a leaking logo, please email us for a no charge replacement. This was the first time we decided laser etch the logo. As is pretty obvious, need to dial it back a notch or two. Our lasers are very high energy intended we use for thicker materials and shooting down stray "weather" balloons. Another one was delivered last week and three more are on the way for cutting the weirs in our new signature line of ten footers. Reminds me of Austin Powers... :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
L1.jpg
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Cell

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Would it be cheaper/easier to just mail out new single wall pieces sans etching on request? I'd rather not go through the assembly process knowing this will likely leak.
 

Lochekey

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So it has been a while since I posted an update on a remote sump design that would work with this tank but here is my "finished" design pending any feedback from the community (which would be greatly appreciated by the way). The sump design keeps the same 11"x11" footprints but expands the depth to 9". The sump design is meant to operate at about a 6" working height to allow for the capacity of running the tank at full weir operating height of 1" which would result in a water height of 7" when the system is stopped. So why 9" of sump height you ask. Well, Tenecor also has a 6 Gallon version of this kit that has a footprint of 11"x22". My thought process for this sump is that it could also be utilized for this larger tank safely and assuming a 1" operating height on the larger tank would result in a 2" water rise in the sump so this would give a final water height of 8" in the sump if utilized for the larger tank. Then build in a buffer of 1" for good measure. So some quick shots of the sump and then we can get into chamber dimensions and weir heights.

11x11 sump assembly.png

11x11 sump assembly (1).png





Now let's talk about chamber dimensions. The initial chamber is 1.25"x4" to allow for submersion of drain pipes for quiet operation as well as extra room to fit most standard small heaters. The sump is then fitted with a 3" hole for a media cup giving an overall initial chamber dimension of 4"x5.25". Water would then proceed to the second chamber which can be utilized for additional equipment such as skimmers or media reactors, alternately it could be used as a refugium. Lastly, the water will hit the pump chamber which is about 5.25x6.25" which should fit most pumps that would be sized for this size system. In designing the varied chamber dimensions I tried to look at available equipment for this size system and ensure that the majority of it would fit without issue. I know a 3" media cup is not a "Standard" per se but it is used on various AIO aquariums so is available and allows for adequate space in other chambers as opposed to a 4" diameter cup which results in impeding the size of other chambers.

11x11 sump assembly (2).png


Looking at the center divider plate you can see that I chose to go with larger slots than in the aquarium itself. The weir slots are set for an operating height of about 6" give or take a little depending on the exact flow rate. I also have the overall height of the center dividers set slightly lower than the top of the sump so worst-case scenario if the weir slots become completely occluded water can still overflow into the pump chamber instead of running on to the floor.

11x11 sump assembly (3).png




So bear in mind, this is designed to be a "DIY" kit so including features such as floating overflow boxes or hidden water flow channels underneath were excluded to allow for easy assembly. Parts were also designed so that they could be easily adapted and included in other sump designs to help standardize parts production. I considered a center divider wall for the second chamber to allow for further chamber separation but did not know if it would add enough value for end users to make it worth including. Wouldn't have to be anything fancy just a notched plate to allow for water flow underneath as seen below.

extra divider test.png



So I know that was a lot and any feedback would be welcome. I'm hoping there are not any glaringly large issues at this point but if there are minor changes that could make assembly easier or make the system more friendly to the end user I am open to modifying the design to accommodate.
 

Cell

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Would it be cheaper/easier to just mail out new single wall pieces sans etching on request? I'd rather not go through the assembly process knowing this will likely leak.

We can do either way. Some have already assembled theirs

Same as well. Would there be a chance of @Tenecor Aquariums mailing these replacement panels proactively?

Already answered, I think. I too am waiting for an email response on this.
 

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