the best di resin

[redfishbluefish]

Following. I burn through a cartridge refill after about 60 gallons of useable water (BRS color changing). Have a bulk order of non-color changing resin coming today the reviews say that it lasts longer. Will let you know.

I'm going to guess you're on well water. Even the worst resin in the world should produce more than 60 gallons....and I would not rely on color change for when to change....rely on TDS numbers. Anyway, it's typical for wells to put out high carbon dioxide that will eat up your DI resin very quickly. There is a simply pH test to see if CO2 is an issue. Let your faucet run for a couple minutes and then fill a glass of water and immediately measure pH. Let the glass sit over night and measure pH the next day. If you see the water go for acidic to more neutral, you have a CO2 issue.

 

[jmichaelh7]

I use Liquagen and get approximately 200 gallons + of 0 TDS.

 

[chicago]

hmm... just caught the post.. high co2 eats up a mix cartridge faster.. ?? I was going the cation - anion - mix bead route but that did not seem to work welll.,.

I think my water need alot of anion... anyone run anion - then mixed ....

other quick one.. i have my pump before the sedimet and carbon.. are others running after the carbon.. i saw one poster doing it that way..

 

[fcmatt]

hmm... just caught the post.. high co2 eats up a mix cartridge faster.. ?? I was going the cation - anion - mix bead route but that did not seem to work welll.,.

I think my water need alot of anion... anyone run anion - then mixed ....

other quick one.. i have my pump before the sedimet and carbon.. are others running after the carbon.. i saw one poster doing it that way..

Chicago.. where are you buying your stuff from? You never mentioned. I am telling you some places are not as good as others. I would try a diff vendor or 2 before I went about making a ton of changes in an attempt to figure it out.

If you are coming out of RO below 10 there is a really really good chance your DI is sub par. But once again you have to describe your water situation as well. City or well. High TDS from the source? Water pressure issue? etc..

But it is sure easy to just buy the DI stuff from another place before reacting further.

 

[chicago]

I hear ya... I did not post the vendor as I did not want to take issue with them... I think I got a bad bag from them... I have been a buyer of BRS for years and never had an issue and thus why I did not mention.. I the batch that I used and think the bag was bad I actually had two or three bags I ordered... one bag came all messed up and torn.. called them and of course they credited me right away... Again,... I am not looking to bash BRS - they have always done right by me..

I have tried the anion -- the issue there is the smell.. wife has a great smell... when I make up an anion cartridge.. even hours later she can tell.. and I have to say it smells nasty...

 

[chicago]

I jumped on this thread when I posted this one yesterday.. and frankly.. I must have been tired as I replied on one thinking it was the other.. here was my recent issue that I am referring .. it turned out that some of the cartridges were not uptaking and rather leaking TDS.. came to conclusion I had a bad bag of Mixed.. here is the post..

Ok.. So last week I checked my TDS coming out of my ro/di. Was 45 TDS.. crazy thing.. let me explain first.. my ro/di has many stages.. two ro membranes followed by two or three DI canisters.. the TDS going in is was 125. After the Membranes was 02. Then after the DI it was 45.. So I replaced all the DI resins ect. I thought perhaps the di resin was releasing back what it had taken away.... so I changed out the resins...

Now i still have 125 TDS going in,,, out of the membranes is still 02 ... maybe 04. TDS

That is all good... but. now I still have ,,, after two canisters of fresh DI 15 TDS... Using mixed blue color changing...

Any thoughts on this.. ? And follow up .. are all Resins created equal. ???

Last

 

[Water Dog]

I get 6-8 tds out of my spectrapure dws90. That’s before the di resin. May be why your di lasts so long, the rest of the system pulls more than its weight

Whats your sourcewater TDS? Yeah, I’m going on year 3 of my Spectrapure MaxCap and SilicaBuster DI cartridges producing 0 TDS water. Though I always qualify that with the fact that I only have 80 TDS coming out of the tap and only make about 20 gallons a week. Obviously YMMV based on your source water TDS, post RO TDS and how many gallons a week you’re making.

 

[chicago]

My TDS out of the sink is 115. After the RO membrane its 03 TDS.. so my DI resins are dealing with 03 TDS... I go through a lot of water.. larges system.. about 3-5 gallons a day.. ??

 

[redfishbluefish]

.........other quick one.. i have my pump before the sedimet and carbon.. are others running after the carbon.. i saw one poster doing it that way..

You don't want your pump before sediment/carbon/any other canister......pump always, always, always goes right before the membrane.

 

[Opus]

My TDS out of the sink is 115. After the RO membrane its 03 TDS.. so my DI resins are dealing with 03 TDS... I go through a lot of water.. larges system.. about 3-5 gallons a day.. ??

You should get around 1400 gallons of 0 tds water out of the resin assuming on CO2 issues.

 

[chicago]

You should get around 1400 gallons of 0 tds water out of the resin assuming on CO2 issues.

HMM... so we should put the booster after the carbon and before the membrane ? but yet I watched the BRS video ect and they show this .. which is before the entire systemm...meaning before the sediment and carbon..

Makes sense though.. haha.. I bet this was why I am also having issues with my RO membranes going to fast

https://www.google.com/search?q=how...me&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_xtWrYLDPLoL5tAbXnb6AAg71

 

[jurgenph]

i've been very pleased with the spectrapure di.

using a (mega) maxcap, and enduro di combo, that seems to last much longer than the standard mixed bed i used previously.


J.

 

[chicago]

good to know..

 

[Opus]

HMM... so we should put the booster after the carbon and before the membrane ? but yet I watched the BRS video ect and they show this .. which is before the entire systemm...meaning before the sediment and carbon..

Makes sense though.. haha.. I bet this was why I am also having issues with my RO membranes going to fast

https://www.google.com/search?q=how...me&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_xtWrYLDPLoL5tAbXnb6AAg71

I doubt that is the reason. The booster pump is just adding pressure on the membrane so unless you were to go over the max for the membrane it shouldn't matter. Usually a membrane goes bad early because of chlorine getting to it.

 

[Koigula]

I like the nuclear grade anionic and cationic from brs. I found that my RO water really only gets treated by the anionic crystals, so, I just run a small cationic (which never gets depleated) and a huge anionic. Cut my DI costs in half.

Is it possible dissolved CO2 gas effects anionic resin more?

 

[redfishbluefish]

Is it possible dissolved CO2 gas effects anionic resin more?

Without question. Anionic resin removes anions and carbon dioxide is an anion, so it gets removed by the anionic resin. Did I say anion enough? :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:

That said, if you have high carbon dioxide water (typical of well water in New Jersey) it will consume your resin in a New York minute. If that's your problem, you're better off storing the water post RO and waiting a day or more to run it through DI or put in a bubbler to remove the CO2.

 

[Koigula]

Thanks for verification!

I am just making the upgrade to 2 inline Pentek CBC-10 carbon block pre RO, and BRS Pro Anionic then BRS Pro Cationic. I will change Anionic every 3 months and Cationic every 6 months. I have less than 400 gallons total so a post RO holding tank is not happening.

Reff Builders Youtube channel had RO membranes eliminated as Rocky Mountain water had no harful organics apparently. I am not testing that locally for me.

 

[Fish Styx]

I'm team Spectrapure, too.