THE BEST WAY to implement a CO2 scrubber!

Mengchhorn Chhun

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When I ran this setup, I would get excess moisture at the bottom of the media canister. It wasn't foam from the skimmer, just a collection of moisture from high humidity. That moisture would bubble somewhat if it was high enough to touch the media, but it was minimal... If your reactor is actually pulling foam from the skimmer then that might be an issue.


You're mostly right. It also contains ethyl violet for the color change indicator. I would guess that is something you don't want to get into your tank.

I think you are right with too much moisture, so is there anyway to fix it, i once seen the water pull through the media and i don’t want that to happen so right now i just run my scrabber to pull the air from the room.
 

dannyfish

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When I ran this setup, I would get excess moisture at the bottom of the media canister. It wasn't foam from the skimmer, just a collection of moisture from high humidity. That moisture would bubble somewhat if it was high enough to touch the media, but it was minimal... If your reactor is actually pulling foam from the skimmer then that might be an issue.


You're mostly right. It also contains ethyl violet for the color change indicator. I would guess that is something you don't want to get into your tank.

The BRS indicator is for the change in pH. Ca(OH)2 is basic, when converted to calcium carbonate the pH decreases.
 

JDowns

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I wonder if some of these methods, by drawing air through water or multiple canisters is more about reduction in air intake than the actual moisture content. I noticed with the new BRS media that is smaller in size that I had to adjust my skimmer due to the loss of air on the intake.

Would be an interesting experiment to take two sensors like the SCD30 and compare CO2 on the intake and outlet side and measure the actual CO2 differential.

Looks like its time to print up some test enclosures for air to pass through.
 

rob safron

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Just ran into this thread. So I did connect my co2 scrubber line to the lid of my skimmer. All was great until we lost power last night. After the power returned I guess the skimmer went crazy and did start a siphon through the soda lime. My phone woke me up with high pH alarm. Ph went from 7.8 to 8.35 in about 10 min. Even though theoretically the water in the jar should not go as high as the skimmer lid, it does.
 

TX_Punisher

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Want to update.

Weather is warming up here. I see my ph lower and the media not lasting as long. Thus, I’m thinking of adding a second chamber. Can I just plumb in another single reactor like the singles from brs? Essentially having two in line. Tired of changing media out every week and it’s not even 98 degrees yet
 

smartwater101

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Want to update.

Weather is warming up here. I see my ph lower and the media not lasting as long. Thus, I’m thinking of adding a second chamber. Can I just plumb in another single reactor like the singles from brs? Essentially having two in line. Tired of changing media out every week and it’s not even 98 degrees yet

I'm wondering this as well. I live in a building that is essentially a furnace lol. It holds in heat even on nice days. I even keep my balcony door open almost 24/7/365 and its only a few feet from the tank. I need to figure out a way to do this without changing media or adding water constantly.

Although, couldn't the other reactor just be water for more moisture? That should save media in the following reactor?

Skimmer pulling from > media reactor > water reactor > skimmer cup? (maybe skimmer cup is a little redundant in this example?)
 

smartwater101

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Some might be interested in this.

I've implemented CO2 scrubbing, but after some experimentation and testing, have decided only to do it at night to 1. stabilize pH, 2. not let pH get too high during the day, 3. keep alk from dropping excessively, and 4. leave plenty of CO2 for photosynthesis and skeletal growth during the daylight hours. At first I would insert and remove the scrubber hose into the skimmer aspirator manually in the evening and morning, respectively, but this got old quick. At first I thought of setting up a bypass with a solenoid and controlling this through an Apex outlet, but the problem with using a solenoid here is that the open and closed durations are long and of similar length; so any solenoid would need to be energized (and getting hot) for far longer than I would consider safe.

Instead of a solenoid, I eventually found this motorized valve. This thing is great. Plug it into an AC outlet (or turn the outlet ON), and a motor turns a ball valve 90 degrees over a few seconds to obstruct the flow, and then turns the motor off, latching in place. It will stay that way until you unplug it from the AC outlet (or turn the outlet OFF), when the device detects the loss of power and opens the valve.

Here's how I have it rigged under my sump. The valve is at the upper left, with a hose directed to the right. The hose from the CO2 scrubber is coming from the upper right toward the left. A black T in the upper back connects the two, with a hose coming down and forward from this to attach to the skimmer. Apex turns the valve's outlet ON, the valve turns to block the flow of air, and all the skimmer air passes through the scrubber first. Apex turns the valves' outlet OFF, the valve turns to allow the flow of air, and all air now uses the shorter lower resistance route through the valve, with no CO2 scrubbing.


IMG_9133.jpg

I use a similar setup, but instead of a solenoid valve I use a motorized valve. The problem for me with a solenoid is that it stays energized all the time that it's open or closed (depending on the design). For a valve that will only be in the energized state for a short time, this isn't an issue. But in my setup, the valve may be called on to maintain either state for many hours continuously. Many solenoids get quite warm or even hot in this situation, and although I have no proof, I am concerned about premature valve failure or system electrical issues.

A motorized valve is neat because, when you first supply it with power (plug it in), it turns the ball valve to either open or closed, and then stops using power. When you remove power from the valve (unplug it), it automatically goes back to the other position. It doesn't use energy continuously, and stays cool.


A motorized valve is such a great idea. I found this one on amazon (uses a 12v battery) and, if i understand correctly, should be able to connect it to the Apex breakout box. Looking forward to setting all this stuff up.

bbPCeqk.jpg


EDIT: I meant to edit this awhile ago, just in case someone stumbled upon the thread via google... The Reverse Polarity valve is not the correct valve to get. The one with Auto Return is what you'd want:

autoreturn.jpg
 
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rkpetersen

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A motorized valve is such a great idea. I found this one on amazon (uses a 12v battery) and, if i understand correctly, should be able to connect it to the Apex breakout box. Looking forward to setting all this stuff up.

bbPCeqk.jpg

That's a nice looking valve but that's not exactly how it works.
You will need to connect those wires to a 9 to 24 VDC power source that you can control and turn on and off.
So it could be powered by one of the 24 VDC outlets on an EB832, for example.
Connecting it to a breakout box would not do anything. It just needs an interruptible power supply to turn the ball.
 
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smartwater101

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That's a nice looking valve but that's not exactly how it works.
You will need to connect those wires to a 9 to 24 VDC power source that you can control and turn on and off.
So it could be powered by one of the 24 VDC outlets on an EB832, for example.
Connecting it to a breakout box would not do anything. It needs a power supply to turn the ball.

Ohhh I see. I must of read it wrong. I thought the power came from a battery.

So I'd need something like the 24v cord in this image? (I assume the EB832 connection isn't propriety?)

2SBbV20.jpg
 

rkpetersen

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DBR_Reef

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A motorized valve is such a great idea. I found this one on amazon (uses a 12v battery) and, if i understand correctly, should be able to connect it to the Apex breakout box. Looking forward to setting all this stuff up.

bbPCeqk.jpg

You would do better with a auto return valve like this one- https://www.ebay.com/itm/272626731194?ul_noapp=true
you could then connect that to a 24 v apex plug- the break out box is input only- so no way to control valves
 

DBR_Reef

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Ohhh I see. I must of read it wrong. I thought the power came from a battery.

So I'd need something like the 24v cord in this image? (I assume the EB832 connection isn't propriety?)

2SBbV20.jpg

I don't think it's proprietary but I've never tried to match it. Looks like the bottom one there, perhaps.
I've just bought the bare wire connector that Neptune sells, and wired devices to that.
https://shop.neptunesystems.com/collections/accessories/products/dc24-cable-bare

copied from a apex stir plate I did a while back

• A 24 volt apex cord- these are $18, but they are nice quality cords, so I think it’s worth it. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/dc24-t...e-systems.html
You can make your own 24v apex cord for a couple bucks, but it won’t look as nice.
You would need the plugs http://www.ebay.com/itm/Molex-43025-...-/111448105410
And the pins http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-of-4-Mol...-/121731350959 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-of-4-Mol...-/121833676747
 

smartwater101

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copied from a apex stir plate I did a while back

• A 24 volt apex cord- these are $18, but they are nice quality cords, so I think it’s worth it. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/dc24-t...e-systems.html
You can make your own 24v apex cord for a couple bucks, but it won’t look as nice.
You would need the plugs http://www.ebay.com/itm/Molex-43025-...-/111448105410
And the pins http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-of-4-Mol...-/121731350959 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-of-4-Mol...-/121833676747

Yeah I just ended up getting the neptune cords. Kind of pricey but easy peasy.



Here is my end setup:

SbREgeT.jpg




My pH increased. The old highs are now my lows. The fluctuation up and down is much tighter as well.


ZT7ejJ7.jpg


(Side note: Ignore the twist valve in between the skimmer tube and the pvc. I was just too lazy to find a proper fitting lol)

tFXX1By.jpg

T7SbNyH.jpg

6CBBzoi.jpg


DC24 connections on the EB832.

jUYIdQN.jpg

OP9qymH.jpg


And the programming is super straight forward:

etaS7gK.jpg



BVALVE_REG:
9BE2M4a.jpg


BVALVE_SCRUB:
eYqSqkj.jpg



After using it for a bit, I realize having 2 valves may be a little pointless. The scrubber is open 100% of the time. If I was using only one, I could just have REG closed and open it to let regular air mix in when pH gets high. Who knows though, I plan to increase alk dosing, so it may come in handy in the future.
 

Navymedic

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Yeah I just ended up getting the neptune cords. Kind of pricey but easy peasy.



Here is my end setup:

SbREgeT.jpg




My pH increased. The old highs are now my lows. The fluctuation up and down is much tighter as well.


ZT7ejJ7.jpg


(Side note: Ignore the twist valve in between the skimmer tube and the pvc. I was just too lazy to find a proper fitting lol)

tFXX1By.jpg

T7SbNyH.jpg

6CBBzoi.jpg


DC24 connections on the EB832.

jUYIdQN.jpg

OP9qymH.jpg


And the programming is super straight forward:

etaS7gK.jpg



BVALVE_REG:
9BE2M4a.jpg


BVALVE_SCRUB:
eYqSqkj.jpg



After using it for a bit, I realize having 2 valves may be a little pointless. The scrubber is open 100% of the time. If I was using only one, I could just have REG closed and open it to let regular air mix in when pH gets high. Who knows though, I plan to increase alk dosing, so it may come in handy in the future.


Very Nice and clean setup. Might try this real soon. Thanks for sharing!
 

Mikepasci

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Instead of buying a solenoid i just have the apex turn off the skimmer above 8.3. Keeps it stable and adds some protection in case of a overflow (which would make the ph rise). My skimmer doesnt have to be on 24/7 i have a refugium and the nitrates/phos stays low.
 

ClearLife

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I just thought of a very simple DIY method for re-circulating the air. It will also solve the issue of an overflowing skimmer getting water into the airline. This isn't a perfectly sealed system, but the way I see it, the system would be better if it wasn't completely sealed. Your skimmer function won't be affected by creating a slight vacuum in a sealed system.

SKIMMER CUP TOP
IMG_0332.JPG


TUPPERWARE BOWL
IMG_0333.JPG


Drill a small hole in the bottom of the bowl for your airline.
IMG_0336.JPG
IMG_0333.JPG


IMG_0336.JPG
 
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Ktran350

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I have the classic Octopus 110 skimmer and tapped one of the holes in the skimmer cup for an airline into my CO2 scrubber. However, due to the high humidity and moisture I am getting a little bit of water in the line near the airline/adaptor for the skimmer cup. CO2 scrubber is above the skimmer. Has anyone ran into this issue and what are the work arounds?
 

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