THE BEST WAY to implement a CO2 scrubber!

Ty Hamatake

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Hi, my skimmer cup doesn't have an intake port, so an external container with water is my best option, how long does your media last with your current setup with the water in a jar?
If it doesn't have an intake, where will you be connecting the scrubber to? As far as my media goes, it lasts about five weeks though the water usually only lasts three to four. I have my intake valve mostly open though so I could easily add a week or two onto the media if I restricted it a bit (this would bring pH down as well though).
 

ItsAName

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Just implemented this a week ago. I was going through my media easily 5-7 days. First two days, PH would go to 8.2, then drop to 8, then by the 5th to 7th day back down to 7.6
I just set it up so that it's pulling air from the skimmer and it's been 8.1 - 8.2 for a week straight. So far so good. Saving me tons of money!

It's weird, instead of looking forward to Spring for the nice weather, I'm looking forward to spring so that I can open windows and raise my PH!

co2scrubber.jpg
 
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Velcro

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Just implemented this a week ago. I was going through my media easily 5-7 days. First two days, PH would go to 8.2, then drop to 8, then by the 5th to 7th day back down to 7.6
I just set it up so that it's pulling air from the skimmer and it's been 8.1 - 8.2 for a week straight. So far so good. Saving me tons of money!

It's weird, instead of looking forward to Spring for the nice weather, I'm looking forward to spring so that I can open windows and raise my PH!

co2scrubber.jpg

Glad to hear it's working out. I ended up running pvc outside about 20 feet up and getting rid of the media.
 

ItsAName

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Glad to hear it's working out. I ended up running pvc outside about 20 feet up and getting rid of the media.

I don't really have that option based on where my tank is located. However, I could run a air tube to my basement or attic. Has anyone had luck with that?
 
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I don't really have that option based on where my tank is located. However, I could run a air tube to my basement or attic. Has anyone had luck with that?

yea, the problem is that the longer it is, the larger pipe you need. My display is right next to the window and then the pipe goes up 20ft. I'm using 1" pvc to prevent any restriction.
 

ItsAName

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I'm still going strong at 8.1. So far 20 days and it still works as oppose to 5.

Can we make this the tank modification tip of 2017? hehe :)
 

Wrasse-cal

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@ItsAName, did you find adding the C02 scrubber muffled the sounds of the skimmer at all? I have the same skimmer you do so I'm curious if the scrubber will act as a skimmer silencer of sorts...
 
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Style68

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I am curious. It's been a while since I used my BRS CO2 Scrubber, but would it be possible to use a shorter refillable cartridge for the media in order to fit more water on the bottom of the reactor?
 

rkpetersen

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Some might be interested in this.

I've implemented CO2 scrubbing, but after some experimentation and testing, have decided only to do it at night to 1. stabilize pH, 2. not let pH get too high during the day, 3. keep alk from dropping excessively, and 4. leave plenty of CO2 for photosynthesis and skeletal growth during the daylight hours. At first I would insert and remove the scrubber hose into the skimmer aspirator manually in the evening and morning, respectively, but this got old quick. At first I thought of setting up a bypass with a solenoid and controlling this through an Apex outlet, but the problem with using a solenoid here is that the open and closed durations are long and of similar length; so any solenoid would need to be energized (and getting hot) for far longer than I would consider safe.

Instead of a solenoid, I eventually found this motorized valve. This thing is great. Plug it into an AC outlet (or turn the outlet ON), and a motor turns a ball valve 90 degrees over a few seconds to obstruct the flow, and then turns the motor off, latching in place. It will stay that way until you unplug it from the AC outlet (or turn the outlet OFF), when the device detects the loss of power and opens the valve.

Here's how I have it rigged under my sump. The valve is at the upper left, with a hose directed to the right. The hose from the CO2 scrubber is coming from the upper right toward the left. A black T in the upper back connects the two, with a hose coming down and forward from this to attach to the skimmer. Apex turns the valve's outlet ON, the valve turns to block the flow of air, and all the skimmer air passes through the scrubber first. Apex turns the valves' outlet OFF, the valve turns to allow the flow of air, and all air now uses the shorter lower resistance route through the valve, with no CO2 scrubbing.


IMG_9133.jpg
 

Vin's Reef

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It's a great idea but I'm ansty about TOO much moisture going into the scrubber.




What this thread has: A way to implement a CO2 scrubber into your system in the most efficient way possible.

What this thread doesn’t have: Pictures of a clean skimmer. :D

I finally had a chance to shoot some pictures of my skimmer/CO2 scrubber setup, since I had the system out of my sump for some maintenance.

With the rise in popularity of CO2 scrubbers seemingly growing by the day, I decided to make a write up of what I think is the best way to implement these devices. While the reactors are very effective at removing CO2 from the air that passes through them, there are a few considerations that have a heavy influence on how quickly the media is depleted.

Firstly, the media must be protected from drying out. When the media dries out, it is no longer capable of neutralizing CO2. Secondly, the concentration of CO2 entering the scrubber has a huge effect on how long it will be able to function before needing to be replenished.

Protecting the media from drying out traditionally was done by adding a tablespoon or so of water to the bottom of the reactor. The idea is that this water would keep the flow of air relatively humid prior to hitting the media, which would prolong its life. In my experience, this was short lived. The water that was added to the reactor would be quickly depleted and the media would dry out. This is not a huge deal if you are okay with adding new water to the reactor every few days, but this wasn’t really an option for me.

To my knowledge, the only solution for reducing the amount of CO2 pulled into the reactor was to plumb the intake to the outdoor air. The amount of CO2 in the air outside the home should be pretty low to begin with, so it’s questionable as to how much benefit there really even is to have a CO2 scrubber before the skimmer intake in a situation where you are able to easily plumb the intake to the outdoors. The problem specifically for me with plumbing an intake outside is that I have neighbors living relatively closely to my home and I know they use a fair amount of chemicals for insects and grass. I’m not interested in chancing an air intake in that environment

The good news is, I have a solution for both of these issues. Lifereef skimmers are especially great candidates for this implementation because of the way their venture is plumbed. A major downfall to older style pump-drive venturis such as the lifereef is that if it is fed dry air, there is a very probable chance that the venturi will clog with salt creep. Lifereef solves this issue by being plumbed so that the venture pulls air from the skimmer cup. The skimmer cup is humid by nature, so it only makes sense to pull air from this source to keep the venture intake air moist, thus preventing the salt creep clogging. What is great about this relating to a CO2 scrubber is that you can place it inline between the skimmer cup and the venture so that it is fed nothing but humid air. This has completely prevented premature drying of the CO2 media, with significantly prolongs it’s lifespan.

The other major benefit to placing the reactor inline between the skimmer cup and the venturi is that you are basically recycling the air inside the skimmer. This means that the amount of CO2 being introduced to the media will be quite low compared to room air. The setup is extremely efficient as far a longevity of the media is concerned.

Now for the pictures! This is my setup… very simple. A single BRS media reactor filled with soda lime from shopvetmed.com (the best price I can find). Airflow travels from the skimmer cup, through the media reactor and into the venture. Doesn’t get much more simple that that .

This works great with a lifereef skimmer because they require a large pump to begin with, so there is no worries about bogging things down as far as air intake is concerned. I do understand that other skimmers are not set up with this type of plumbing from the skimmer cup, but I have heard of people drilling their cups and adding a hose barb in a similar fashion. I don’t think that air constriction will be a concern with most skimmers since the media isn’t densely packed, and allows for a pretty easy airflow through it.

I hope that this helps you all with implementation of a CO2 scrubber in your aquarium!

bc-46.jpg
bc-47.jpg
 
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Velcro

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It's a great idea but I'm ansty about TOO much moisture going into the scrubber.

Why? You're not going to fill the thing up with water. A few times the bottom centimeter of media got saturated but it doesn't matter. it doesn't get aerosolized and even if it did it's just calcium oxide and sodium hydroxide. I guess there might be a concern for the ethyl Violet color indicator but I never had any issues with coral while running this.
 

Vin's Reef

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Why? You're not going to fill the thing up with water. A few times the bottom centimeter of media got saturated but it doesn't matter. it doesn't get aerosolized and even if it did it's just calcium oxide and sodium hydroxide. I guess there might be a concern for the ethyl Violet color indicator but I never had any issues with coral while running this.
Do you think those filters in the reaction chambers get clogged up and hinder the performance of the soda lime ? I never ever washed them. Just figured the skinner was getting are so what the heck. Btw I took your advise connecting the air intake to the skimmer cup. No results yet but we'll see.

IMG_5923.JPG
 
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Velcro

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Do you think those filters in the reaction chambers get clogged up and hinder the performance of the soda lime ? I never ever washed them. Just figured the skinner was getting are so what the heck. Btw I took your advise connecting the air intake to the skimmer cup. No results yet but we'll see.

IMG_5923.JPG

I didn't use the filters but I don't think it would be an issue
 

TX_Punisher

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Glad I found this thread. I began researching that I thought could be a pH issue is with my handheld and it made her I would see 7.8 during the day tops. At night 7.6. I finally picked up in Apex and got it all dialed in. After a few days my pH at the end of the light cycle would barely hit eight at most. At night dipping down to 7.65 or 7.7 so that Hannah was pretty darn close. I've been wondering why I would get very little growth in my red sea 750 XXL and that this could potentially be one of the culprits.

After reading this thread I ordered the BRS kit and the 5 gallon bucket of soda lime from Med vet for $90. I installed everything on Friday so I've only been running the scrubber for a day. I quick rigged a water bottle full of ro/di after running the auction line to my skimmer cup. It foamed so much I had to remove it. Today apex showed 8.2 but I just performed a water change last night with some rather low ph water so I'll continue to monitor. I'll be interested to see if this helps at night.

Not much room in these Red Sea sump areas so its pretty tight. One observation I have a made after installing the scrubber is my skimmate has gotten much more foamier compared to before where it is very wet.

I'll continue to monitor through Apex and update.
 

TX_Punisher

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Randy,

Can you explain your setup? You have something like a valve in that junction box?
 

Randyp79

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Randy,

Can you explain your setup? You have something like a valve in that junction box?
Yes, two 1/4" feeds from the skimmer cup into a connector I made for the scrubber. This makes certain the air going onto the scrubber is moist and it also recycles air. I have noticed a big improvement on how long my media lasts with this adjustment. Inside the junction box is a 24v 1/2" solenoid I bought off Ebay. It is normally closed and air goes through scrubber. When pH gets above 8.3 the solenoid opens and draws air without passing through the scrubber. So far, this setup is keeping my pH 8.05 - 8.3 and my media is lasting 2-3 weeks.
 

rkpetersen

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Inside the junction box is a 24v 1/2" solenoid I bought off Ebay. It is normally closed and air goes through scrubber. When pH gets above 8.3 the solenoid opens and draws air without passing through the scrubber.

I use a similar setup, but instead of a solenoid valve I use a motorized valve. The problem for me with a solenoid is that it stays energized all the time that it's open or closed (depending on the design). For a valve that will only be in the energized state for a short time, this isn't an issue. But in my setup, the valve may be called on to maintain either state for many hours continuously. Many solenoids get quite warm or even hot in this situation, and although I have no proof, I am concerned about premature valve failure or system electrical issues.

A motorized valve is neat because, when you first supply it with power (plug it in), it turns the ball valve to either open or closed, and then stops using power. When you remove power from the valve (unplug it), it automatically goes back to the other position. It doesn't use energy continuously, and stays cool.
 

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