I agree with the importance of Kalk. I saturate my ATO with Kalk (managed via an Osmolator.) The Kalk does a good job of countering the pH depressing effect of the CaRx - especially at night. My diurnal pH ranges from 8.0 ~ 8.2 (with reactor running at ~6.50.) Without the Kalk I beleive it would be more like 7.8 ~ 8.0.Over the years I've switched from a CA reactor, to dripping kalk (a few years later when I got back into the hobby), then a Kalk reactor, then 2-part on dosing pumps....got great results with all but I have to say, I got tired of all the mixing and dosing and decided to go back to a CA reactor a few years ago (Korallin 1502, milwaukee regulator).....one of the best maintenance decisions I made for my tank, took about 2 week to get it dialed in right, but other than refilling it, I haven't had to touch it since I set it up. My pH did drop a bit due to excess CO2 (from 8.1-8.3 to 7.8-8.2) but it didn't seem to have any negative effects on the tank.
Great point CJO - I thought about adding MAG (Dolomite) to the CaRx, but decided against it. I've read that Dolomite dissolves at varying (lower) pH than Ca media and as this was my first attempt with a CaRx, I wanted to eliminate as many variables as possible to speed the learning curve. Instead, I add BRS MAG monthly.I've been running a calc reactor on my tank for about 2 years now and haven't had any issues with alk spikes. Also, you can add magnesium flakes to your media so that you don't have to dose as much, if any, mag.
CJ
I think it might depends on your definition of "noob". If your new to marine tanks, I think I would gain some experience before tackling a CaRx (2-part dosing is much simpler.) I'm 20 years in the hobby and still learning everyday.Would this be ideal on a new tank? I'm a noob with dosing
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