The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

[Wrasser]

*edit* I meant crypic sixline wrasse aka pink-streaked wrasse

 

[erk]

Can you keep a pygmy possum wrasse with fairy wrasses? I haven't tried because I'm afraid my exquisite fairy would dominate it. Also, what wrasses should I avoid housing with my exquisite fairy wrasse? I kinda wanted to get a red head solorensis, but am also afraid of aggression. Any input would be great.

 

[evolved]

Thank you for the kind words.

I figured you must have meant Pink Streaked; otherwise I had no idea what species you may have been getting at.

Anyhow, in terms of an shear number of wrasses; no - I don't think there's much of a problem there.

In terms of incompatibility, the only small risk area is with rhomboidalis and lineatus. It usually works fine, but not always. I've done it without much issue, but definitely saw the potential for it not to go so well. Order of addition on these, or the others for that matter, doesn't matter much.

The real issue I see here is with so many pairs. More than likely, you'll experience most, if not all, of the females eventually transitioning to male as well. Especially with so much going on in the tank; the initial males will not be able to assert the dominance needed over the conspecific females which is required to keep them female amongst asserting his territory with the other males. (wow, I think I need a diagram for that statement)

I don't bother much with pairs/trios of Cirrhilabrus/Paracheilius anymore. Even when I've had spawning pairs/trios, the females eventually transition with maturity anyway.

Consider less pairs, more species diversity.

 

[evolved]

Can you keep a pygmy possum wrasse with fairy wrasses? I haven't tried because I'm afraid my exquisite fairy would dominate it. Also, what wrasses should I avoid housing with my exquisite fairy wrasse? I kinda wanted to get a red head solorensis, but am also afraid of aggression. Any input would be great.

Yes you can.
Solorensis can be ornery; it's certainly a bit of risk. Using an acclimation box upon introduction can help a lot, though.

 

[erk]

Yes you can.
Solorensis can be ornery; it's certainly a bit of risk. Using an acclimation box upon introduction can help a lot, though.

Thanks, definitely great to hear that it can be done. I'll keep an eye out for a nice looking one now that I know it will work. I need to get a better type of acclimation box. Is there one you recommend, evolved?

 

[nelsonre]

Hello just looking for advise regarding taking care of a Red Head Solon fairy wrasse make. It's a nice fish for a reef tank? Any special care? I really like that fish. Any comment will be very appreciated

 

[kschweer]

Looking for a little advice as to what other wrasses I may be able to add with my mystery wrasse. I was looking at a flame pair but concerned that they are too passive to be with the mystery. Any advice and suggestions of a nice wrasse or 2 I may be able to add would be greatly appreciated.

 

[evolved]

Thanks, definitely great to hear that it can be done. I'll keep an eye out for a nice looking one now that I know it will work. I need to get a better type of acclimation box. Is there one you recommend, evolved?

Elite Aquatics: Social Acclimation Box

Hello just looking for advise regarding taking care of a Red Head Solon fairy wrasse make. It's a nice fish for a reef tank? Any special care? I really like that fish. Any comment will be very appreciated

Like all reef safe wrasses: requires peaceful tankmates, a COMPLETELY covered tank, and multiple feedings per day.
All About Reef Safe Wrasses

Looking for a little advice as to what other wrasses I may be able to add with my mystery wrasse. I was looking at a flame pair but concerned that they are too passive to be with the mystery. Any advice and suggestions of a nice wrasse or 2 I may be able to add would be greatly appreciated.

Unfortunately, I wouldn't advise any be mixed with one of the Psueudocheilinus genus (mystery).

 

[Wrasser]

Thank you for the kind words.

I figured you must have meant Pink Streaked; otherwise I had no idea what species you may have been getting at.

Anyhow, in terms of an shear number of wrasses; no - I don't think there's much of a problem there.

In terms of incompatibility, the only small risk area is with rhomboidalis and lineatus. It usually works fine, but not always. I've done it without much issue, but definitely saw the potential for it not to go so well. Order of addition on these, or the others for that matter, doesn't matter much.

The real issue I see here is with so many pairs. More than likely, you'll experience most, if not all, of the females eventually transitioning to male as well. Especially with so much going on in the tank; the initial males will not be able to assert the dominance needed over the conspecific females which is required to keep them female amongst asserting his territory with the other males. (wow, I think I need a diagram for that statement)

I don't bother much with pairs/trios of Cirrhilabrus/Paracheilius anymore. Even when I've had spawning pairs/trios, the females eventually transition with maturity anyway.

Consider less pairs, more species diversity.

That makes a lot of sense about keeping pairs. It's not such a bad thing because you can enjoy more diversity rather than just half a dozen pairs. What wrasses in particular do you find have much brighter colors when a female is present?

 

[Wrasser]

Just picked up these beauties off of the DD. And a heads up for anyone interested, Live Aquaria has female/juvinile Labouts for $80 which is a pretty good deal. Man, I really hope Petco doesn't shut down Live Aquaria and the Divers Den when they absorb Fosters & Smith :neutral:

 

[Paul87]

Just picked up these beauties off of the DD. And a heads up for anyone interested, Live Aquaria has female/juvinile Labouts for $80 which is a pretty good deal. Man, I really hope Petco doesn't shut down Live Aquaria and the Divers Den when they absorb Fosters & Smith :neutral:

Very nice scores! What's this about Petco absorbing Drs. Foster and Smith???

 

[ruppertb]

I have a 180 that will eventually have 3 tangs a few anthias and wrasses in it. I'm curious as to how many differnt wrasses and which are the least aggressive of the fairy and flashers that I can house together. The tank is a bb 180 but I have a wrasse den for some sand if needed.

I have read before somewhere to just get 1 male of each species I am interested in so I don't have to worry about females going male. And that the males will still flash at each other. Is this true?

Just curious what species I could get away with having and peacfully co exist. I like flame rhomboids lineatus and lubbocks as well as whip fin, red velvet , linespot, mccoskers, carpenters and blue flashers. Not sure which of these would be a good mix to coexist. Hopefully someone can chime in with a list for me to go with. Thanks in advance

 

[N1Husker]

I have a 180 that will eventually have 3 tangs a few anthias and wrasses in it. I'm curious as to how many differnt wrasses and which are the least aggressive of the fairy and flashers that I can house together. The tank is a bb 180 but I have a wrasse den for some sand if needed.

I have read before somewhere to just get 1 male of each species I am interested in so I don't have to worry about females going male. And that the males will still flash at each other. Is this true?

Just curious what species I could get away with having and peacfully co exist. I like flame rhomboids lineatus and lubbocks as well as whip fin, red velvet , linespot, mccoskers, carpenters and blue flashers. Not sure which of these would be a good mix to coexist. Hopefully someone can chime in with a list for me to go with. Thanks in advance

I had a McCosker's Flasher Wrasse that was the only wrasse in the tank and he flashed all of the time. I can't really answer any of your other questions because I would just be guessing.

 

[N1Husker]

This was my McCoskers.

 

[Wrasser]

I have a 180 that will eventually have 3 tangs a few anthias and wrasses in it. I'm curious as to how many differnt wrasses and which are the least aggressive of the fairy and flashers that I can house together. The tank is a bb 180 but I have a wrasse den for some sand if needed.

I have read before somewhere to just get 1 male of each species I am interested in so I don't have to worry about females going male. And that the males will still flash at each other. Is this true?

Just curious what species I could get away with having and peacfully co exist. I like flame rhomboids lineatus and lubbocks as well as whip fin, red velvet , linespot, mccoskers, carpenters and blue flashers. Not sure which of these would be a good mix to coexist. Hopefully someone can chime in with a list for me to go with. Thanks in advance

The only trouble makers I see in that group are the red velvet and Male whip fins which can be aggressive toward other wrasses. All the others should be able coexist. Good luck!

 

[ruppertb]

Open to suggestions on a good mix. I like all wrasses but my girlfriend doesn't. Every time I have her look at live aquaria she picks ones and then I find them to be incompatable. Lol. Just trying to formulate a list of fairy and flashers that would all be compatable with each other and then have her pick a few that she likes. Seems to be the best way I can think of.

 

[ruppertb]

Also have a question on covering my tank. I have corner overflows that I have gutter guard on so fish can't jump into them. But do to the stand pipes in my plumbing I wouldn't be able to make screen tops to fit on the tank where the corner overflows are. Would it work if I were to use screening to cover the back of my canopy so if the fish were to jump out they would land back into the water or hit to top of my canopy or my leds. Could I drape the screening from the top of my canopy to right above water line to prevent them from landing on the edge of the tank where my canopy sits? I tried to attach a pic but not sure if it will show up

 

[Greenstreet.1]

 

[Greenstreet.1]

This is one of my fav had him going on two years now stating to change

 

[Marshall O]

Also have a question on covering my tank. I have corner overflows that I have gutter guard on so fish can't jump into them. But do to the stand pipes in my plumbing I wouldn't be able to make screen tops to fit on the tank where the corner overflows are. Would it work if I were to use screening to cover the back of my canopy so if the fish were to jump out they would land back into the water or hit to top of my canopy or my leds. Could I drape the screening from the top of my canopy to right above water line to prevent them from landing on the edge of the tank where my canopy sits? I tried to attach a pic but not sure if it will show up

If I understand your question correctly, yes, you can use 1/4" mesh screening to go from your canopy to the edge of your tank. I did it myself on my old 55 gallon tank. I used the screen framing normally used to build mesh tops to give it some weight.