Thinking about switching to a canister filter.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ordie23
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I’ve never drilled a tank before but maybe it would be a good idea to get a cheap 2.5 or 5 gal Petco tank to practice drilling first?
I like going with a 10g tank (5/32” thick glass), or a 20g tank (3/16” thick glass) for the purposes of testing!

The 2.5g and 5g are <=1/8” thick glass typically, this is so thin and fragile that it can actually be more of a challenge to drill through cleanly in many cases!
 
I like going with a 10g tank (5/32” thick glass), or a 20g tank (3/16” thick glass) for the purposes of testing!

The 2.5g and 5g are <=1/8” thick glass typically, this is so thin and fragile that it can actually be more of a challenge to drill through cleanly in many cases!
I didn’t even think of that. Good call!
 
I didn’t even think of that. Good call!
Then, if you drill up by the top rim; you can install a bulkhead/overflow on it!

Then, you can use it for a frag tank or remote refugium!
 
Ok since the majority say no to the canister. Has anyone have any information about the AquaReady HF-M complete filtration system?
 
to me, going from a hob to a canister is not much of an upgrade, its just another form of mechanical filtration, but neither filter exports nutrients or dissolved organics. Having a skimmer plus a mechanical filter is an upgrade, even though skimmers fall into the 'mechanical' filtration category, they do export organics from the system.
 
to me, going from a hob to a canister is not much of an upgrade, its just another form of mechanical filtration, but neither filter exports nutrients or dissolved organics. Having a skimmer plus a mechanical filter is an upgrade, even though skimmers fall into the 'mechanical' filtration category, they do export organics from the system.
Thank you for the information and advice. Do you know anything about the aquaready hob filter/skimmer?
 
I’ve never drilled a tank before but maybe it would be a good idea to get a cheap 2.5 or 5 gal Petco tank to practice drilling first?
The thicker the glass the less likely you will crack it while drilling. I would try and purchase some panes of glass that are the same thickness of the tank you want to drill and test drill those first.
 
Thank you for the information and advice. Do you know anything about the aquaready hob filter/skimmer?
is that one unit together? I've used the aquaready (aquamax) hob 1.5 for about 5 years, then accidentally threw the impeller in garbage while I cleaned the unit, so I bought an aquaready bullet 3.0, which I've been using for the past 5 months. I've also used aquaready reactors in the past, personally, I think its a great brand, I never had any trouble with their units, they last years without issue, I would recommend this brand any time. Good luck
 
Thank you for the information and advice. Do you know anything about the aquaready hob filter/skimmer?
is that one unit together? I've used the aquaready (aquamax) hob 1.5 for about 5 years, then accidentally threw the impeller in garbage while I cleaned the unit, so I bought an aquaready bullet 3.0, which I've been using for the past 5 months. I've also used aquaready reactors in the past, personally, I think its a great brand, I never had any trouble with their units, they last years without issue, I would recommend this brand any time. Good luck
Yes it is the big hob unit thats the filter and protien skimmer together.
 
no experience with that particular machine, sorry.
 
The thicker the glass the less likely you will crack it while drilling. I would try and purchase some panes of glass that are the same thickness of the tank you want to drill and test drill those first.
I’ve found it a bit tricky to get float glass in 3/16” and thicker from local stores, most-everything thicker seems to be tempered! (Likely for liability reasons)

I had four ~18”x18”x3/16” thick float glass sump baffles made by a local glasscutter early this year; he charged me $120!!

Since then, free junk aquariums have been my go-to for annealed project glass!
 
Unless you want to use a notoriously unreliable hang on overflow; yes!

My thought would be getting a second 40b (or something bigger!) from your local petsmart/petco using online price matching to get it for 1/2 of typical shelf price… then, drill the new tank for an overflow!

Then, you can tank transfer to the new tank, and build out your current 40b as the sump!
I could be spreading bad info but I’ve read the current petco tanks are tempered and not drillable. Unless someone can chime in with recent experience seems like petco tanks are a roll of the dice for drilling.
 
I could be spreading bad info but I’ve read the current petco tanks are tempered and not drillable. Unless someone can chime in with recent experience seems like petco tanks are a roll of the dice for drilling.
I don’t have a local petco to check, so this may be true!

— One should always double check manufacturer’s specifications on a given tank before attempting to modify it!
 
I have a 90 gallon with fish, soft corals, a couple SPS and a few LPS. My tank uses an HOB skimmer, and a Oase' canister filter, and works just fine. THe Oase' is designed with a prefilter that you would need to clean weekly, it is VERY easy access. Then clean the main filter monthly. So far at least (almost 2 years) this works great for me. I store the canister under the tank stand, so out of sight. The return bar I have set just below the surface so it doesn't really make much noise, but helps with surface agitation. I have a UV sterilizer that runs from the canister, inline to the return. I know a lot of people on here are not fans of canisters, and with good reason. THey can become nitrate factories if you don't keep up with them, and human nature is to do just that . I guess that is why Oase' came up with the prefilter. It really does make a difference.
 
I could be spreading bad info but I’ve read the current petco tanks are tempered and not drillable. Unless someone can chime in with recent experience seems like petco tanks are a roll of the dice for drilling.
Aqeon's can be a mixed bag, so to speak. If they are running low on non tempered glass they will substitute tempered in it's place. Seapora seems to be more consistent with what is and is not tempered. Marineland would be another safer bet. (but always check to be sure)

 
I have a 90 gallon with fish, soft corals, a couple SPS and a few LPS. My tank uses an HOB skimmer, and a Oase' canister filter, and works just fine. THe Oase' is designed with a prefilter that you would need to clean weekly, it is VERY easy access. Then clean the main filter monthly. So far at least (almost 2 years) this works great for me. I store the canister under the tank stand, so out of sight. The return bar I have set just below the surface so it doesn't really make much noise, but helps with surface agitation. I have a UV sterilizer that runs from the canister, inline to the return. I know a lot of people on here are not fans of canisters, and with good reason. THey can become nitrate factories if you don't keep up with them, and human nature is to do just that . I guess that is why Oase' came up with the prefilter. It really does make a difference.
Here is a current photo
20250709_152118_2E01BF19-C5F2-4031-B75B-7BCE8790F486.png
 
I have a 90 gallon with fish, soft corals, a couple SPS and a few LPS. My tank uses an HOB skimmer, and a Oase' canister filter, and works just fine. THe Oase' is designed with a prefilter that you would need to clean weekly, it is VERY easy access. Then clean the main filter monthly. So far at least (almost 2 years) this works great for me. I store the canister under the tank stand, so out of sight. The return bar I have set just below the surface so it doesn't really make much noise, but helps with surface agitation. I have a UV sterilizer that runs from the canister, inline to the return. I know a lot of people on here are not fans of canisters, and with good reason. THey can become nitrate factories if you don't keep up with them, and human nature is to do just that . I guess that is why Oase' came up with the prefilter. It really does make a difference.
I was looking at the JBJ reaction pro 2 with the uv sterilizer built in.
 
I was looking at the JBJ reaction pro 2 with the uv sterilizer built in.
I don’t know anything about that one, but with a canister filter, it will totally depend on your maintenance schedule. Canister filters really are nitrate factories! The ONLY way to prevent that is to be very prudent about cleaning it. That is why most people don’t believe they belong in a reef system. If the one you want has a pre-filter like the Oase’, and you stay on top it, you will be fine! The biggest thing about canisters is they are a pain in the butt to clean, so people get rather lax about it over time. Also, I replaced most of the filter media in mine with ceramic bio balls and rock rubble.
 
I was looking at the JBJ reaction pro 2 with the uv sterilizer built in.
A canister filter is a canister filter. The JBJ just has an added bonus of built in UV. Keep in mind that teh bulb will need replacing and hope that they dont discontinue the line.
I have 3 FX6's filled with LR rubble. Once a year rinse to "clean",....usually just bits of sand at the bottom of the canister. 20 minutes max per canister.....
 

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