Thinking these corals placed differently could do better

[Nordy]

Hi,
Pictured below is what I am working with. Temp stable at 78, 1.025sg, Ca @ 380, Mg @ 1280, Alk 10.8 dkh, Ph 8.
2nd picture is a pink Stylophora and being SPS, it should be in another discussion, but I’ve done well with them years ago, and no where near as challenging as an Acro to me. Tomorrow I’ll move these 4 corals with your ideas if that’s what they need. If you got ideas and need more data to work with, please ask. I can also get more pictures to help form a more complete picture. The pink stylophora I believe is receiving too much light. It is 6-7 inches below the top of the waterline, directly under an LED. I also think it could use more flow, it’s in the center of a 6 foot long tank in front of the overflow. 3rd picture is a Crimson tears Chalice. I read a chalice will form a cup shape with little flow. Where it currently is placed has moderate flow and it is in the lower third of the tank. My thought is it could benefit from greater flow, but unsure if more or less light is needed. 4th picture is a KO burning Favia. I feel this coral is getting moderate flow, but a little to much light, pretty close to middle of water column. 5th picture, is a Platycakes Platygyra. Hoping I’ll achieve its full growth and color potential someday! It sits in the bottom 1/3rd of the tank. In that picture the front is receiving more light, the back is illuminated less by my LED’s due to aqua scape cover and the coral flesh looks better in the back part of the frag under attinic lighting. Flow is light for the Platygyra. Thinking less light, and maybe a slight increase in flow would help. I do aminos almost every night, and reef Bizzard once or twice a week, usually a half hour after giving aminos.
Lots of pieces missing I know, so if something pertinent helps paint the whole picture, please ask, and thank you for your help.
Scott

 

[Reefing_addiction]

Have you ever checked you PAR?

What kind of lights?

The chalice looks like it has tissue recession?

What are your nitrates and phosphates?

 

[Nordy]

Have you ever checked you PAR?

What kind of lights?

The chalice looks like it has tissue recession?

What are your nitrates and phosphates?

I don’t know the PAR values, I use LED’s and they are on for 12 hours. I run a program with the lights that is close to a Red Sea program that is 15,000k. The peak intensity after ramping up is 80% blue spectrum, and 53% white light. ICP test 6 weeks ago had Phos at .031. My Salifert tests give me zero for Nitrate all but one time when I cycled the tank using Red Sea Reef mature program. 2nd week after starting that program I had 50ppm Nitrate, and it cycled back to zero shortly after.

 

[Reefing_addiction]

I don’t know the PAR values, I use LED’s and they are on for 12 hours. I run a program with the lights that is close to a Red Sea program that is 15,000k. The peak intensity after ramping up is 80% blue spectrum, and 53% white light. ICP test 6 weeks ago had Phos at .031. My Salifert tests give me zero for Nitrate all but one time when I cycled the tank using Red Sea Reef mature program. 2nd week after starting that program I had 50ppm Nitrate, and it cycled back to zero shortly after.

What lights are they?

How old is the tank?

how often are you feeding the tank?

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

High light kills corals quickly, slow fading-away death is caused by low light. I would turn the lights up, but it might be worth it to rent a par meter from your LFS

 

[Reefing_addiction]

Not enough nutrients can also cause corals to fade away or die quickly

To low of light can kill some corals quickly to

Just like to much flow or not enough flow…

It is all dependent on the coral

 

[Nordy]

What lights are they?

How old is the tank?

how often are you feeding the tank?

The lights are part of the reefer 750 g2 controlled on the ReefBeat app. They are the ReefLED 160S, Spaced apart to the recommendations. I given frozen food 3 times daily to the fish. Almost every night I use aminos with my skimmer off for 30 minutes. Once a week after I turn skimmer back on from dosing aminos, I’ll use a coral food powder normally. The tank began cycling after the first week in July this year. I also use seachem phyto or seachem zoo plankton right after lights turn off for the night. First two months I had a lot of copepods seeded in refugium and DT, along with daily use of ocean magic from Algaebarn.

 

[Nordy]

High light kills corals quickly, slow fading-away death is caused by low light. I would turn the lights up, but it might be worth it to rent a par meter from your LFS

I’ll bump up the light intensity a little today and observe for a few days if anything noticeable happens, and then maybe bump up the lights a hair more by this weekend. I’m curious about the pink Stylophora receiving too much light. There’s little polyp extension. I have a rainbow Stylophora, and it is thriving, has greater flow, placed a little lower in the tank than my new pink Stylo. What are your thoughts to the pink Stylo. I hate moving a coral, but will relocate if I know it’s going to help.

 

[Chubbycat]

in my opinion, I will recommend rent a par meeter at Liberty reef, you can contact them through facebook 55$ for 5 days, very good price. Buy Hanna checker or reputation test kits to measure Alk, Ca and Mg, nitrate and phosphate. That sounds a lot to testing but it will help u understand the water parameter. by the way when you test the Nitrate and phosphate, you will know to cut off feeding amino and other corals food

 

[Nordy]

in my opinion, I will recommend rent a par meeter at Liberty reef, you can contact them through facebook 55$ for 5 days, very good price. Buy Hanna checker or reputation test kits to measure Alk, Ca and Mg, nitrate and phosphate. That sounds a lot to testing but it will help u understand the water parameter. by the way when you test the Nitrate and phosphate, you will know to cut off feeding amino and other corals food

Sounds good, I have 1 Hanna checker, but would benefit from the entire set. I always get zero readings from my Salifert test for N and P and that can’t be accurate. Must be an exceptional CUC, and a stellar macro and mangrove nutrient export in my refugium. A PAR Meter sounds good too, I used to know a guy that had one and did my 1st tank years back.