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Brew12

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9ppm chlorine from your well is somewhat concerning.
cdc seems to think about .5ppm is a "normal" level for city water.
i'm sure someone here knows better though.....

https://www.cdc.gov/safewater/chlorine-residual-testing.html

Oh yea.... chlorine neutralizer. I need that. But still, the ICP reference shows my chlorine lower than that in natural seawater.
Don't worry about the chlorine or needing a neutralizer. An ICP test only reads elemental content. It can't differentiate chlorine from chlorides. It would be shocking if this result was anything other than a salt compound and should be completely harmless.

You’re probably right. But here’s the thing. My husband is a chemist and the quality manager at a large chemical plant. He’s my local expert. He seems to think that the DI is all that’s necessary. It will get rid of stuff we need to get rid of without having to pass water through a membrane. We would also be able to avoid a lot of waste water too.
I'm not sure a DI is even necessary. I would be tempted to run it through nothing more than a carbon filter.
 

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Do you really want to chance anything with your source water? I added another DI cartridge to make sure I run 0 TDS (totaling 7 stages now) and will be switching to the BRS pro resins shortly.

I know you say it may be good enough with just DI, but why chance it? In the end, running the membrane and some carbon filters gives you peace of mind and really isn’t that expensive anyway.
 

MnFish1

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Did an ICP test on my well water. This is what I got. This seems just as good as water from an RO/DO unit! Pay no attention to the pink notifications. I registered this sample as an aquarium test by accident.

6098D48B-3E70-46F0-A67C-F139A4E322C9.jpeg
The ICP test doesnt 'determine' whether its chlorine (i.e. the bad stuff) or chloride ion.
The reason (IMHO) that your water is not 'almost as good as RODI' - is that over time - if you use this water for replacement - all of these things will build up. Whether they would ever get to 'toxic' levels - IDK - but - I wouldn't necessarily say these levels are benign.
 

MnFish1

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Don't worry about the chlorine or needing a neutralizer. An ICP test only reads elemental content. It can't differentiate chlorine from chlorides. It would be shocking if this result was anything other than a salt compound and should be completely harmless.


I'm not sure a DI is even necessary. I would be tempted to run it through nothing more than a carbon filter.

Curious - I dont know whether this will be used for top off water - or how many water changes will be done - but - would you seriously risk it? I think you're right that no chlorine neutralizer is needed (if it was - I would not use this water - I'm not sure certain corals do well with it) - but some wells are chlorinated periodically.

To @BestMomEver before I trusted those numbers - I would have the test run at various times - in various seasons - before you decide what to do - otherwise you will always wonder 'could it be the water' when you have a problem? Ive seen multiple posts (here) saying how different the ICP testing can be depending on the sample
 

Brew12

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Curious - I dont know whether this will be used for top off water - or how many water changes will be done - but - would you seriously risk it? I think you're right that no chlorine neutralizer is needed (if it was - I would not use this water - I'm not sure certain corals do well with it) - but some wells are chlorinated periodically.
Where do you see the risk that is above and beyond a RODI filter? What element are you looking at that you think is worse than what can come out of a RODI filter?
I think people get into a mindset that 0 TDS means the water is good. That is far from the truth. Take chloramines for example, which many cities are switching to instead of using chlorine. It will pass through a RO membrane with no issues. It's non ionic so will not be removed by DI resin. It's non conductive so water containing it will read 0 TDS. Does this mean the water is safe to use? Not at all. I would use the well water sampled above over simple 0 TDS RODI water from a city that uses chloramines.
Then there is the common misperception that 1ppm TDS means that there is 1ppm of contaminants getting through which is also not the case. Most TDS meters are calibrated to the conductivity equivalent of dissolved sodium chloride. For less conductive compounds it may take 50ppm to cause a reading of 1ppm on a TDS meter.
 
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Curious - I dont know whether this will be used for top off water - or how many water changes will be done - but - would you seriously risk it? I think you're right that no chlorine neutralizer is needed (if it was - I would not use this water - I'm not sure certain corals do well with it) - but some wells are chlorinated periodically.

To @BestMomEver before I trusted those numbers - I would have the test run at various times - in various seasons - before you decide what to do - otherwise you will always wonder 'could it be the water' when you have a problem? Ive seen multiple posts (here) saying how different the ICP testing can be depending on the sample
I used the ICP text from Coralvue.... at least I think that’s who it was. I agree on testing at various times, etc. My husband has tested our water at work too. He’s the regional quality control manager for a chemical plant in our area. His testing isn’t as comprehensive as the ICP (not able to test for all the same things) but his conclusion is pretty much the same. Still, I plan on testing from other sources too.... I think there are others besides Coralvue and Triton.

I am still undecided about using my house water for top off in the future. I plan to send off another test when the DI unit is installed. Until then, I will continue to get water from the LFS.
 

Brew12

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I used the ICP text from Coralvue.... at least I think that’s who it was. I agree on testing at various times, etc. My husband has tested our water at work too. He’s the regional quality control manager for a chemical plant in our area. His testing isn’t as comprehensive as the ICP (not able to test for all the same things) but his conclusion is pretty much the same. Still, I plan on testing from other sources too.... I think there are others besides Coralvue and Triton.

I am still undecided about using my house water for top off in the future. I plan to send off another test when the DI unit is installed. Until then, I will continue to get water from the LFS.
I would use the well water and do periodic testing (like ICP). If the tests show rising levels of an undesirable element that you know is from your well water you may want to try using a RODI system.
 

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Where do you see the risk that is above and beyond a RODI filter? What element are you looking at that you think is worse than what can come out of a RODI filter?
I think people get into a mindset that 0 TDS means the water is good. That is far from the truth. Take chloramines for example, which many cities are switching to instead of using chlorine. It will pass through a RO membrane with no issues. It's non ionic so will not be removed by DI resin. It's non conductive so water containing it will read 0 TDS. Does this mean the water is safe to use? Not at all. I would use the well water sampled above over simple 0 TDS RODI water from a city that uses chloramines.
Then there is the common misperception that 1ppm TDS means that there is 1ppm of contaminants getting through which is also not the case. Most TDS meters are calibrated to the conductivity equivalent of dissolved sodium chloride. For less conductive compounds it may take 50ppm to cause a reading of 1ppm on a TDS meter.

I have no particular disagreement with you - but I do have a question - if the TDS is 0 - what is the chance that there is 50 ppm of a less conductive 'mineral' (not chloramine). If a TDS of 0 is meaningless -why do we measure it? As to chloramine - that's why we use carbon?

BTW - above you're discussing reasons why some chemicals 'may' get through an RODI system. To me that doesn't translate into its ok to use water with the elements mentioned. In any case it was just my opinion - to avoid multiple ICP tests - etc. And My main point was I wouldn't base anything especially from a well based on only one sample:). To me the use of an RODI system 'up front' takes away any change of problems from the start.
 

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I have no particular disagreement with you - but I do have a question - if the TDS is 0 - what is the chance that there is 50 ppm of a less conductive 'mineral' (not chloramine). If a TDS of 0 is meaningless -why do we measure it? As to chloramine - that's why we use carbon?
I'd say it is a higher possibility than you may think. There are many elements and compounds that can dissolve in water that are non conductive. How likely it is depends on the source water. And TDS isn't meaningless, it is only often misunderstood. If you have a TDS reading it lets you know you need to change your DI resin.
And yes, we do use carbon for chloramine although if you know your utility adds chloramine you should use at least 2 carbon filters imo. Unfortunately, we really don't have any way of knowing when our carbon filters go bad.
BTW - above you're discussing reasons why some chemicals 'may' get through an RODI system. To me that doesn't translate into its ok to use water with the elements mentioned. In any case it was just my opinion - to avoid multiple ICP tests - etc. And My main point was I wouldn't base anything especially from a well based on only one sample:). To me the use of an RODI system 'up front' takes away any change of problems from the start.
I have nothing against RODI system, and use it and regularly change the carbon and resin. I have seen my cities water reports and know I need them. In this case, the OP has access to a water testing professional and is also willing to do ICP tests. To me, this is a better practice (without a RODI filter) than what I do hoping my RODI system works but not backing it up by more than an occasional ICP test.
In most cases I would absolutely recommend a RODI filter but most people aren't able/willing to do this type of testing.
 

MnFish1

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And yes, we do use carbon for chloramine although if you know your utility adds chloramine you should use at least 2 carbon filters imo. Unfortunately, we really don't have any way of knowing when our carbon filters go bad.

I was not aware of the need to use 2 - do you know is there a chloramine test?
 

Brew12

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I was not aware of the need to use 2 - do you know is there a chloramine test?
I know there is a way to check but I don't remember what it is. It involves testing for chlorine and ammonia after running through a carbon block but I'd have to research to see exactly how to do it. I recommend looking at your local utilities website and see if they post their water quality reports there. Otherwise you can call and ask if they add it.
 

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I know there is a way to check but I don't remember what it is. It involves testing for chlorine and ammonia after running through a carbon block but I'd have to research to see exactly how to do it. I recommend looking at your local utilities website and see if they post their water quality reports there. Otherwise you can call and ask if they add it.
I know that they do - but I only use 1 carbon on my RO/DI system - so I wondered if I should test it after going through the RO unit
 

Brew12

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I know that they do - but I only use 1 carbon on my RO/DI system - so I wondered if I should test it after going through the RO unit
Test your RODI for free and total chlorine along with ammonia. That should give you a pretty good idea of when your carbon is exhausted.
 

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There actually is a way to measure whether the carbon in a water filtration system is exhausted in a general sense, which is T.O.C. (total organic carbon) testing, but unfortunately that's not very practical for a hobbyist reef keeper.

However, there is some comfort for those on municipal systems; generally speaking the only troublesome component that must be removed and that doesn't appreciably alter the conductivity of the water is chloramine. For other things that would be of concern to us, such as triazine herbicides, the local water authority tests and monitors. Granted, you're stuck with whatever the EPA's MCL (maximum contaminant level) is for that particular compound, but since for the most part those are in the parts-per-billion range, you're probably good.

A well might be different, and will greatly depend on the aquifer that the well is drawing from.
 

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Good report card overall. Water IMO can never be pure but of Good quality
 

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