Correct, and I admit I have not done so yet as I don't have access to a microscope as of yet.
Lots of public libraries have them you can check out for free.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Correct, and I admit I have not done so yet as I don't have access to a microscope as of yet.
So I battled prorocentrum dinos and what you wrote in your op was the right way, you need to be patient.Final Update (Hopefully):
Completely got sidetracked and busy with real life projects and forgot to update this. I since completed my last dose on 07/16/23 and can happily report that my system looks 100% better. I ran the system an extra 2 days before I did a 10% water change + dosed Microbacter7 under the "Stable Low Nutrient Systems" dosage and have kept GAC running and as of today, I still have no signs of Dino's. I have slowly ramped my lighting back up to my previous settings MINUS whites and reds/greens to 60%.
Going forward, I will keep a closer eye on Nitrates and Phosphates in addition to continuing to run GAC and reduce my overall lighting schedule to 6-8 Hours daily. Thanks to @vetteguy53081 for his recommendation to dose H202 and all his help and to everyone else who have had valuable input and hope this thread might be of some use to anyone in the future!
I have been slowly ramping back up to my pre dino lighting, but I have reduced and kept whites at 7%. So I'm not totally convinced its lighting causing it. After talking to one of my past old salts, he told me he encountered it once and he does not believe its caused by elevated nitrates and phosphates and his method of getting rid of it was a bunch of waterchanges while siphoning out what he could during said waterchanges.Did you go back to pre Dino lighting and feeding or just stop using h2o2? I’m fighting Dino’s myself and have spent waaaay too much time reading about it.
Here’s what I KNOW about Dino’s:
You’ll get them if your nutrients are zero, except tanks with high, medium or low nutrients get them too.
Blackouts and h2o2 dosing will kill them, until they come back.
Live rock won’t allow Dino’s to grow, until it covers the live rock.
Definitely dose silicate, mb7, phyto and pods because those will DEFINITELY take care of the problem…..sometimes.
Oh and buy a microscope and the biggest UV sterilizer that you can afford because my friends cousin knew a guy who swears it’s the answer.
If you find out anything else let me know.
Edit: forgot to mention that you need to feed heavily. Just take out your sandbed and replace it with pellet food because you don’t want your phosphate to zero out.
Sorry, haven't been active much lately. Dinos have pretty much persisted, just not as horrible as it was. I've since gone back to once a month 15-20% WCs, feeding once to twice a day still and skipping a day here and there on food.@Pyrogens Can you give an update. I’m hoping this all worked out. Your story sounds like mine.
If only it was this easy.I don’t know why Dino’s are such an issue. Just raise phosphate and nitrate and they will disappear
I also wish it was as simple as these remedies, but it's not. I however am glad that this was a solution for your system.And then you grow boatloads off cyano, diatoms, GHA and all kinds of craps. I only have issues with diatoms now. Al the green stuff you get a sea hare for and cyano is easy to kill with cyanoRX.