Tideline 38.7 Gallon Peninsula Mixed Reef

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Tanks4theMemories

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Hello, world 😀

I'm in the process of planning and setting up a ~40 gallon peninsula reef tank and thought it might be fun and useful to the community to document the process given the irregular build. I live in a rowhome in Philadelphia and this will be in my office on the second floor, so the main limiting factor for my tank options is weight. I would love to have a UNS R120, and would have bought one, but it's just too heavy. I've had a 25 gallon Waterbox peninsula AIO system set up for two years that this will be replacing, and I've learned a lot with that tank. Before that I was out of the hobby for about 12 years. Back in 2011–2013 I had a few different reef tanks with my dad, but those are all long gone. We had a 75 gallon, a 40 gallon, and a 210 gallon.

After doing some math, I've surmised that 40 gallons is about the max I'd feel comfortable with for the display. I really wanted something that gives me four feet of length to give a tang enough horizontal swimming space, and after some searching I found the Tideline 38.7 gallon tank (see it here on the supplier's website).
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The tank dimensions are 47.3" x 13.8" x 13.8", which is about perfect within my constraints. I purchased a stand in walnut too, which should go well in my office. That all gets in next week, so I'll update the thread once I have it here.

For filtration, I want to get back to a sump instead of having another AIO. I didn't want to go above 10 gallons for the sump for weight, wanted a refugium chamber, and needed it to fit a Reefmat 250. Not finding anything that fit the bill, I bought a kit off eBay for a 10 gallon Aqueon tank and am going to build my own (kit below for reference).

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Because the 10 gallon tank is only 10.5 inches wide, most refugium lights won't work or would look very clunky. The best option seems to be the UNS Mini refugium light screwed into an acrylic lid (like shown below).

UNS Mini Refugium Light - Magnetized


The next issue is the lid itself. Since this is all custom, I'll have to source it. In searching for the best overflow box, I found Modular Marine and am having them build me a custom overflow box using their 800 GPH option to fit the back of the tank. I asked if they could do a custom lid for the sump as well, and that seems doable. Below is the diagram I sent over, so we'll see how it turns out.
10G Sump Lid Diagram.jpg

And here are some rough test fits of everything to make sure my lid spacing was correct:

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For sand, I currently have Caribsea special grade in the Waterbox 25, but it's just too coarse for my liking. I want something that reminds of home (Florida), and am going to try 40lbs of Bahama Oolite. I had it before years ago and recall it does tend to blow around, but I'll make it work. For rock, I went with one 20lb box of Caribsea LifeRock shapes and a 10lb box of LifeRock original. I figure that will give me some options to play with for the aquascape.

I also got a 15W Aqua UV sterilizer, a Maxspect Jump Gyre GF308 for flow (I have an MP10wQD on the Waterbox and have never found the app functionality to be worth anything--I set it once and adjust it using the buttons), a Syncra Silent 2.0 for the return pump, and a few other small items.

For lighting, I'm going to continue using my Kessil a360xe that I have on the Waterbox, but will either (1) sell it eventually and get three 47" Quanta Helix lights (two white and one blue), or (2) add a second Kessil a360xe for full coverage. Given the shallow tank depth, the Kessils feel like total overkill so I'm open to suggestions.

I think that covers most of the plan for now. As things come in and the build progresses, I'll continue to update the thread. Excited to see where this goes.

Best,
Alex
 
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Hi Alex, very well put together thread, and well thought out tank. Love the look of a penisula/bookshelf tank and look forward to following your build.
 
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The tank and stand got in today. Because I had to source it through DFW Aquariums, there was really no home delivery option. It was sent to the fish store about 30 minutes from me and I went and picked it up. There was no way this would fit in my sedan, so I rented a U-Haul van and it worked out pretty well.

Everything looks great at this point aside from two minor scratches on the top outer rim of the tank and the stand not being built for a peninsula. The scratches should be fixable, and will be covered by the lid regardless. The stand will take some work to make usable. There were no pictures of this stand online that showed the back side, and I knew it was a gamble. I reached out to Planet Aquariums to ask what plywood they’re using and what the stain is. Hopefully I can just swap the back top and bottom boards for a full size board and stain it to match the color. Alternatively I could do the same thing and paint it, although I’m not sure what color would look best. If anyone has suggestions, I’d love to hear them.

The next step after fixing the back of the stand is waiting on the shipment from Modular Marine to arrive. Once that gets here, I can drill the back glass to install the overflow and return bulkheads, and then it’s ready to move into the office and start setting up.
 
Following!
 
following along! where did you purchase the stand?
 
following along! where did you purchase the stand?
Thanks! The overflow should get here later this week, so hoping this gets moving soon. I sourced the stand and tank through DFW Aquariums and ordered it through a local aquarium retailer. It was a pretty straightforward process.
 
Things are finally starting to move along. The lid, overflow box, and some other stuff came in this week. Turns out I measured the space without adding the control unit to the Reefmat, so I had to cut the lid to size and remove the bulkheads, which was unfortunate but I think it turned out well.

Modularmarine did an incredible job with the custom lid and overflow box. Tomorrow I’ll get the baffles siliconed into the sump, then Saturday we drill the tank to add the overflow and return. Last thing to do is break down the current tank, level the new one, and then sand, rock, and water go in. 3 holes to drill. Pretty nervous about it, but I feel well prepared from all of the YouTube videos and forum posts I've read. Here are some pictures of where things are at.

Despite the narrow dimensions, everything actually fits pretty well inside.

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Painted the bottom white. I think it looks clean with the white lid and black baffles.

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Couldn't find a better spot to mount the UV. I need a stronger mounting solution than the command hooks, so I'll have to figure that out.

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This was my solution to fixing the lid spacing issue. I think it'll work really well and makes very little difference once everything is put together.

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Things are kind of a mess at the moment.

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Lid not fitting once I added the control module on the left side.

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Following your process. I'm looking into doing a similar build! May I ask for a link to the stand you ordered?
 
Looking like an excellent start! Following along.
 
Some updates!

Got the cable management done this weekend and properly mounted the UV Sterilizer with screws.

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Also got the tank drilled and filled with water up to right below the drain holes. I glued the PVC drain line together incorrectly (make sure you keep the union slip cover on the right side before you glue it up!) and decided to switch to soft tubing for the drain lines to make life easier. That gets here Thursday, so we should be totally set up by this weekend. You'll also notice that I switched from baffles in the sump to Lifegard aquamesh. Fair warning to anyone considering one of those baffle kits for a 10 gallon tank in the future. You cannot use a normal sized caulk gun because it won't fit in the tank. I tried and it was impossible to get any clean lines so it looked terrible. I scrapped that 10 gallon tank, bought a new one, painted that white on the bottom, and cut the aquamesh down to size. So far it's working great. I'm running a refugium with no skimmer so I have no need to adjust the water level between chambers and this was so much easier.

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I tried painting the back black too, but it was impossible to get clean lines on the edges and I really like getting the peninsula effect from all sides where it feels like the tank is open. I finished the lid as well, but it didn't turn out great. I didn't expect the mesh to pull the outer rim so much, and it's a tighter fit now. I should have used a center support, but you live and learn. I think I'll eventually pick up a custom lid from Kraken Reef. This whole build has been a big exercise in patience and accepting that you're unlikely to get something perfect the first time you do it.

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Playing with the aquascaping. I think having two islands looks cool.

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Things are coming along! A few updates:
  • The water is cloudy because I added some Aqua Forest Life Source mud. Interesting stuff. To be determined if it makes any difference.
  • Added four jars of Ecopods and 4oz of chaeto from Algae Barn in the sump. Also added a bottle of Dr. Tim's One & Only.
  • The return pump is so much louder than I expected. Going to pick up a Vectra S2 and use the Sicce as a water mixing pump.
  • Dealt with some leaks getting the overflow box set up. Turns out hand tightening is not enough. Gave the bulkheads a half turn with a wrench and it's been dry for two days now.
  • Add the sand first, then the rock. I have no idea why I thought the other way around was better, but it's not.
  • This has been quite the adventure, but we're getting there. Hoping to have the fish transferred over tomorrow, then heading to Reefapalooza NY on Saturday.
Hope everybody has a relaxing weekend.
 
Would you guys do anything to support the drain tubing here? I feel like I should, but can't think of how to do it properly.
 

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Would you guys do anything to support the drain tubing here? I feel like I should, but can't think of how to do it properly.
I've never had a sump, I always have had an AIO, so I'm not much help although I think there are some tubing clips that you can get. So in this situation what you do is you ask @tbrown and @tharbin and usually you will get a great answer.
 
Would you guys do anything to support the drain tubing here? I feel like I should, but can't think of how to do it properly.
Support isn't necessarily necessary for the tubing. My concern would be that there's a significant amount of tension on the overflow wrapping around the corner like that.
 
Very nice setup so far. I love the stand and tank and really nice work designing such a cohesive build in such a small space. I also have a soft spot for Philadelphia rowhouses. My grandparents lived in one for many years before they moved to Cherry Hill.

Like Tim said, support isn't needed for the tubing but I'm a little uncomfortable with two things. The tension going around the corner and the unsupported drain valve. Check if they make a bracket for the valve or if someone has a 3d-printed bracket for it and screw it to the side of the stand. If you can, I would look at going through the end of the stand or notching the stand to reduce the bend on the tubes.

At the very least I think I would add a screw eye or similar to the inside of the end piece and run a tie wrap, snug but not tight, around the area where the return tube crosses over the drain tubes. I don't know how the tubes are attached in the sump but those tubes are under enough tension and they are stiff enough that I wouldn't want to chance them popping free from the sump,
 
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