Tin Leaching from Common Plastic Tubing and a Very Inert Tubing that I Found

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Dr. Jim

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I wish you luck with your tank - and its great to see an experiment. I would like to hear your thoughts on the following though:

1. you only sent 1 sample - and given the variability I've seen with ICP tests - I'm not sure you can trust the differences between brands. (I know - it would be prohibitively expensive to send multiple ICP tests)
2. as you said - the lengths were different - which would mean that the 30 inch piece as compared to the 5 foot piece may leech a lot more. Also the diameters were different - its fine - they all have measurable tin - but - it just makes it hard to compare different ones
3. You used RODI - its not RODI in our tanks.
4. I wonder if you put the tubing in water for a week - then rechecked the test - with fresh water - if the tin levels would be significantly lower (i.e. - I would think that the same levels of tin would not be leeching out week after week) - but in any case it would be interesting to think about.
5. I've heard the same theory about PVC leeching tin. (and also that over time this stops)
6. Hopefully you will measure the new Tygon tubing that you got to see if it has the same amount as the one you tested.

In any case - thanks for doing the experiment
Answers in RED

1. you only sent 1 sample - and given the variability I've seen with ICP tests - I'm not sure you can trust the differences between brands. (I know - it would be prohibitively expensive to send multiple ICP tests) I've run over 40 ICP tests since last May. One result in the thousands is good enough to convince me there is tin leaching. The absolute number isn't important and it is highly unlikely the ICP test would be off by the order of thousands.

2. as you said - the lengths were different - which would mean that the 30 inch piece as compared to the 5 foot piece may leech a lot more. Also the diameters were different - its fine - they all have measurable tin - but - it just makes it hard to compare different ones I purposely mentioned that the tubing lengths were different as a way of admitting that direct comparisons between tubing types cannot be made precisely and in hopes that I wouldn't have to explain this. :) My purpose was not to compare one tube to another. I didn't start off with the intention of publishing a scientific paper either. I just happened to have tubing of those lengths and wanted to rinse them so used them as they were for my "soak tests." Regardless of the length of tubing, when results come back in the thousands, that should be a significant indication that those items are leaching tin and should be avoided (at least by me).

3. You used RODI - its not RODI in our tanks. I explained this in my "tin thread" but will repeat it here:
a) By not using saltwater I avoid the possibility of elevated tin coming from the salt, but more importantly,
b) RO/DI is very "reactive water" meaning that it draws compounds (fumes, smoke, metals, etc) more readily than water with TDS's (for lack of a better description) :) (This is why I always advocate using glass aquariums to store RO/DI and for salt mixing tanks). My "soak tests" are performed for a relatively short time (especially when compared to the time tubing, pipes, etc are in our tank). Again, I'm not looking for absolute numbers, I just want to see if the items have tin and want to be more sure that I will "draw" them out (which I will be if I use RO/DI). Better than missing them. True, saltwater will probably be slower at drawing out the tin than RO/DI but eventually it will draw it out. Again, tubing installed in our aquarium systems is exposed for a LONG time while these "soak tests" are very brief. (And yes there is RO/DI in our tanks!.....mixed with salt). :)

4. I wonder if you put the tubing in water for a week - then rechecked the test - with fresh water - if the tin levels would be significantly lower (i.e. - I would think that the same levels of tin would not be leeching out week after week) - but in any case it would be interesting to think about. Not quite sure I understand this... sorry. But, I'm sure the levels would vary if tests were repeated, but if they are 1000 or 3000, it doesn't matter. That item is leaching dangerous levels of tin!

5. I've heard the same theory about PVC leeching tin. (and also that over time this stops) I discussed my thoughts on it "stopping" above. In summary, I'm not so sure it "stops" any time soon! (see explanation in post #16)

6. Hopefully you will measure the new Tygon tubing that you got to see if it has the same amount as the one you tested. My plan is to wait and see if my MT continues to show elevated tin. If it doesn't, like I am hoping and expecting, then there is no need to test it. I suppose this can be considered an indirect way of showing that the Tygon is not leaching tin, although not perfect. Again, my goal is to just solve my tin problem. I'll be glad when I can put all this testing behind me!

I didn't really expect my methods would be so scrutinized but I guess I shouldn't be surprised. Everyone can take what they want from my findings, and I hope not many reefers will have to go thru what I did with a tin problem. I hope my posts may be of help to others.....or at least something to consider.


I've been very frustrated with this past year with this tin issue and feel like I've been "jinxed" with my system so I just ordered a new tank which is coming next month (Innovative Marine. EXT 100-White). Yesterday I received 60 more pounds of KP rock and a Trigger sump with roller mat but the roller assembly was broken in 2 places! I just hope this is not a bad omen! :) Does anybody know Trigger's phone number? They haven't responded to my email and Premium Aquatics doesn't have their number either. That's scary....a company that doesn't make their number readily available. Wish I knew that before I ordered!
 

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What are you using this tubing for?

Also, I've heard of people with similar concerns using pharmed tubing.
 
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. Now must change all PVC and flexible tube?
I'm not saying that, necessarily! I'm not real convinced that tin at your level would cause problems with your LPS but certainly that has to be considered. I would look to other causes first (and I'm sure you have). But if you have Lowes/H.D. tubing, I would be very leery of that. Not sure if you will want to do soak tests if you have some handy. I would start with the tubing before PVC pipes. I would also recommend another ICP test before jumping to conclusions. Actually, that would be a good time to use the ATi RO/DI tube to do a soak test....5 days is enough, preferably with a pump....but if you get tin it could be from the pump remember. (My Sicce pumps used for my tests were tested and found to be "free" of tin.)

My tests showed much lower levels coming from PVC pipes than tubing, but still significant, especially for my 34 gal cube. Of course there are thousands of reefers using pvc pipe without problems. My friend just set up a 1500+ gal system and has miles of 4" and 6" diam. sched 80 pipe running throughout his basement and first floor. He just ran a Triton ICP and there was no tin! (I need to find out the brand of his pipe!)
 

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Answers in RED

1. you only sent 1 sample - and given the variability I've seen with ICP tests - I'm not sure you can trust the differences between brands. (I know - it would be prohibitively expensive to send multiple ICP tests) I've run over 40 ICP tests since last May. One result in the thousands is good enough to convince me there is tin leaching. The absolute number isn't important and it is highly unlikely the ICP test would be off by the order of thousands.

2. as you said - the lengths were different - which would mean that the 30 inch piece as compared to the 5 foot piece may leech a lot more. Also the diameters were different - its fine - they all have measurable tin - but - it just makes it hard to compare different ones I purposely mentioned that the tubing lengths were different as a way of admitting that direct comparisons between tubing types cannot be made precisely and in hopes that I wouldn't have to explain this. :) My purpose was not to compare one tube to another. I didn't start off with the intention of publishing a scientific paper either. I just happened to have tubing of those lengths and wanted to rinse them so used them as they were for my "soak tests." Regardless of the length of tubing, when results come back in the thousands, that should be a significant indication that those items are leaching tin and should be avoided (at least by me).

3. You used RODI - its not RODI in our tanks. I explained this in my "tin thread" but will repeat it here:
a) By not using saltwater I avoid the possibility of elevated tin coming from the salt, but more importantly,
b) RO/DI is very "reactive water" meaning that it draws compounds (fumes, smoke, metals, etc) more readily than water with TDS's (for lack of a better description) :) (This is why I always advocate using glass aquariums to store RO/DI and for salt mixing tanks). My "soak tests" are performed for a relatively short time (especially when compared to the time tubing, pipes, etc are in our tank). Again, I'm not looking for absolute numbers, I just want to see if the items have tin and want to be more sure that I will "draw" them out (which I will be if I use RO/DI). Better than missing them. True, saltwater will probably be slower at drawing out the tin than RO/DI but eventually it will draw it out. Again, tubing installed in our aquarium systems is exposed for a LONG time while these "soak tests" are very brief. (And yes there is RO/DI in our tanks!.....mixed with salt). :)

4. I wonder if you put the tubing in water for a week - then rechecked the test - with fresh water - if the tin levels would be significantly lower (i.e. - I would think that the same levels of tin would not be leeching out week after week) - but in any case it would be interesting to think about. Not quite sure I understand this... sorry. But, I'm sure the levels would vary if tests were repeated, but if they are 1000 or 3000, it doesn't matter. That item is leaching dangerous levels of tin!

5. I've heard the same theory about PVC leeching tin. (and also that over time this stops) I discussed my thoughts on it "stopping" above. In summary, I'm not so sure it "stops" any time soon! (see explanation in post #16)

6. Hopefully you will measure the new Tygon tubing that you got to see if it has the same amount as the one you tested. My plan is to wait and see if my MT continues to show elevated tin. If it doesn't, like I am hoping and expecting, then there is no need to test it. I suppose this can be considered an indirect way of showing that the Tygon is not leaching tin, although not perfect. Again, my goal is to just solve my tin problem. I'll be glad when I can put all this testing behind me!

I didn't really expect my methods would be so scrutinized but I guess I shouldn't be surprised. Everyone can take what they want from my findings, and I hope not many reefers will have to go thru what I did with a tin problem. I hope my posts may be of help to others.....or at least something to consider.

I've been very frustrated with this past year with this tin issue and feel like I've been "jinxed" with my system so I just ordered a new tank which is coming next month (Innovative Marine. EXT 100-White). Yesterday I received 60 more pounds of KP rock and a Trigger sump with roller mat but the roller assembly was broken in 2 places! I just hope this is not a bad omen! :) Does anybody know Trigger's phone number? They haven't responded to my email and Premium Aquatics doesn't have their number either. That's scary....a company that doesn't make their number readily available. Wish I knew that before I ordered!
I wasn't trying to imply you did anything 'wrong'. I was making a comment to try to help you out with your tank - and the 7 or 8 other people who are now terrified that they have to re-do all of their plumbing. (Since nearly everyone uses tubing or PVC in their tanks - at least in some place).

As far as the question that you didnt understand - I meant this type of experiment:

1. Take your usual piece of tubing
2. Put it in plain water for a week
3. Replace with clean water - and see if the tin levels drop considerably. I.e is it a temporary thing with new tubing - or does it keep leaching.

I might be incorrect - but I do not think plastic tubing 'breaks down' unless there are actual things pitting it (like sand or something) - i.e. I would not think necessarily - that just water running through a tube would continue to leach the same amount of tin that you are finding after a short period of time. (i.e. I read your explanation above about PVC).

Lastly - I love it when people post data - and said that at the outset. It would just be nice to know if it persists - and in reality - whether tin is that big of an issue. The reason I say this - is there are I would guess hundreds of posts here - where the people have written in - and made comments such as 'I sent in a routine ICP test - and the tin was sky high' but my tank is fine - what does this mean? etc. I know @Randy Holmes-Farley has done quite a few discussions about this maybe he will chime in... It would also be nice to see in some kind of controlled experiment (not done by us - but in general) - what levels of tin are actually toxic to corals, etc.

Again - thanks for your hard work - and its interesting because its not something most people would think about!
 

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What are you using this tubing for?

Also, I've heard of people with similar concerns using pharmed tubing.
I use it (and have used it) for years - it goes from my pump about 3 feet back to the output in my RedSea reefer 750 XL
 
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What are you using this tubing for?

Also, I've heard of people with similar concerns using pharmed tubing.
I wasn't aware of Pharmed tubing. I just took a quick look and see it is made by the same company that makes the Tygon. But it seems like that tubing is used more for doser tubing (and may be very soft?). I'm using mine for the pump return.

When I spoke to the Saint Gobain tech, they didn't mention Pharmed but highly recommended the Tygon 2475 so that's what I went with.
 
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On tubing life


The pharmed

Yeah....looks like that is intended more for doser pumps. And the 3/4" is $15 per foot (vs $11/ft for the one I have), but again, probably not the best for a return pump. It stated:
  • Durometer hardness (shore A): 64 ,,,,,,,,,which is relatively soft and flimsy
But good to know for when I need to replace doser tubing! Thanks!
 

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Yeah....looks like that is intended more for doser pumps. And the 3/4" is $15 per foot (vs $11/ft for the one I have), but again, probably not the best for a return pump. It stated:
  • Durometer hardness (shore A): 64 ,,,,,,,,,which is relatively soft and flimsy
But good to know for when I need to replace doser tubing! Thanks!
It looks as though on a pump tygon has a shorter lifespan than the pharmed although they don't mention the 2475 and who knows if this is accurate although it appears legit lol. This study was using a 3 roller pump, I guess the tygon just wore down faster but man under 100 hours lol, it's too bad because based on my super fast assessment your suggestion is the ultimate not gonna leach anything tubing although I wonder if between these 2 we're so far superior to the home depot stuff that it doesn't matter, I get that feeling lol, need to look into this more!
 
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I wasn't trying to imply you did anything 'wrong'. I was making a comment to try to help you out with your tank - and the 7 or 8 other people who are now terrified that they have to re-do all of their plumbing. (Since nearly everyone uses tubing or PVC in their tanks - at least in some place).

As far as the question that you didnt understand - I meant this type of experiment:

1. Take your usual piece of tubing
2. Put it in plain water for a week
3. Replace with clean water - and see if the tin levels drop considerably. I.e is it a temporary thing with new tubing - or does it keep leaching.

I might be incorrect - but I do not think plastic tubing 'breaks down' unless there are actual things pitting it (like sand or something) - i.e. I would not think necessarily - that just water running through a tube would continue to leach the same amount of tin that you are finding after a short period of time. (i.e. I read your explanation above about PVC).

Lastly - I love it when people post data - and said that at the outset. It would just be nice to know if it persists - and in reality - whether tin is that big of an issue. The reason I say this - is there are I would guess hundreds of posts here - where the people have written in - and made comments such as 'I sent in a routine ICP test - and the tin was sky high' but my tank is fine - what does this mean? etc. I know @Randy Holmes-Farley has done quite a few discussions about this maybe he will chime in... It would also be nice to see in some kind of controlled experiment (not done by us - but in general) - what levels of tin are actually toxic to corals, etc.

Again - thanks for your hard work - and its interesting because its not something most people would think about!
Thanks for clarifying that. I see what you are saying now....thanks.

The green tubing I mentioned above was used for about 9 months before testing (and gave a result around 1400). That same tubing was tested 2 other times (with elevated tin each time). The other tubes mentioned in this thread were new and recently purchased. Most all of the "positive tin results" from my 40+ ICP tests over the past 7 months were all on items that had been in my aquarium for about 5 - 10 months. Again, I wasn't concerned about a controlled experiment, I just needed to test them before putting them on my tank. But I understand what you are saying. Thank you.

I'm convinced that just water running thru tubing can allow leaching. No doubt about it.

There is certainly a lot of controversy about the harmful effects of tin. We've been thru that on my original "tin thread" so I didn't really want to start that up again. Everyone has experiences and opinions. For me, there is no doubt in my mind that tin has caused problems with my SPS frags.

Thanks for helping!
 
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I use it (and have used it) for years - it goes from my pump about 3 feet back to the output in my RedSea reefer 750 XL
So you are using that exact one?

PharMed® BPT Biocompatible Tubing​

....but for your main pump return? What diameter? Is it a little flimsy?

Thanks!
 

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So you are using that exact one?

PharMed® BPT Biocompatible Tubing​

....but for your main pump return? What diameter? Is it a little flimsy?

Thanks!
Sorry - I meant I'm just using plain plastic tubing - nothing special - but I haven't checked an ICP test.
 

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OK so if we're being super paranoid fanatics about leaching, I just read that pharmed can leach mineral oil and some other stuff. Again I'm sure it's less than the cheap stuff and likely has no effect on our aquariums but here are the top 3 I've found that are least likely to leach. From the Masterflex tubing application guide

Biopharm plus: "No leachable additives or plasticizers to impart taste or contamination"
- I think this is just platinum cured silicon.

Tygon: "Plasticizer- and oil-free to ensure accurate results from analytical tests; does not yield taste into fluids"

PTFE tubing: "Inert fluoropolymer will not leach into or absorb out of fluid being pumped" with "the best chemical resistance of any pump tubing"

I guess chemical resistance and leaching are not the same, I suppose I thought that something that was not resistant would potentially leach. Guessing these definitions are like related but not the same. Anyway now if I could find which has the longest lifespan on a pump, guessing not tygon. I have read that while pharmed can leach, it does have an extremely long lifespan on a pump, the longest of the commonly sold high end pharma tubing, as @MnFish1 attested to.

Reference here http://www.davis.com/assets/literature/1759_MflexTubingAppsGuide_brochure.pdf

@Randy Holmes-Farley Any thoughts these and leaching/lifespan on a pump? Would you be at all concerned with any of these and specifically does platinum cured silicon pose any issue? Platinum curing sounds scary to me lol.
 
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OK so if we're being super paranoid fanatics about leaching, I just read that pharmed can leach mineral oil and some other stuff. Again I'm sure it's less than the cheap stuff and likely has no effect on our aquariums but here are the top 3 I've found that are least likely to leach. From the Masterflex tubing application guide

Biopharm plus: "No leachable additives or plasticizers to impart taste or contamination"
- I think this is just platinum cured silicon.

Tygon: "Plasticizer- and oil-free to ensure accurate results from analytical tests; does not yield taste into fluids"

PTFE tubing: "Inert fluoropolymer will not leach into or absorb out of fluid being pumped" with "the best chemical resistance of any pump tubing"

I guess chemical resistance and leaching are not the same, I suppose I thought that something that was not resistant would potentially leach. Guessing these definitions are like related but not the same. Anyway now if I could find which has the longest lifespan on a pump, guessing not tygon. I have read that while pharmed can leach, it does have an extremely long lifespan on a pump, the longest of the commonly sold high end pharma tubing, as @MnFish1 attested to.

Reference here http://www.davis.com/assets/literature/1759_MflexTubingAppsGuide_brochure.pdf

@Randy Holmes-Farley Any thoughts these and leaching/lifespan on a pump? Would you be at all concerned with any of these and specifically does platinum cured silicon pose any issue? Platinum curing sounds scary to me lol.
I mentioned "chemical resistance" earlier. I believe that this is not what we are after. I think this term just means the tubing will not be affected by particular chemicals (and it makes me wonder if these tubes are impregnated with even more unwanted chemicals to allow that protection.

There are over 30 "models" of TYGON and they all perform differently. Again, my "research" and correspondence with the "TYGON technical support" has shown that the TYGON 2475 is the one best suited for aquarium use if the main concern is to not have any chemicals (and specifically tin) leach.

And again, I have been referring to tubing for use with circulation pumps, not tubing for peristaltic pumps which would be different. (The thread recently got turned to the direction of peristaltic tubing....which is fine.....but let's keep the different types of tubing in mind when posting.)

Thank you all for contributing!
 
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.....and let's not bother Randy with another discussion about "whether tin can be toxic to corals." We've been thru that! :)
 
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.....and let's not bother Randy with another discussion about "whether tin can be toxic to corals." We've been thru that! :)
Sorry to focus on peristaltic tubing and leaching not related specifically to tin, those 3 types can be used for anything though not just peristaltic and don't leach anything so it seemed relevant. I am curious about the platinum curing but will asking randy that elsewhere so as not to hijack, my bad!
 
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Sorry to focus on peristaltic tubing and leaching not related specifically to tin, those 3 types can be used for anything though not just peristaltic and don't leach anything so it seemed relevant. I am curious about the platinum curing but will asking randy that elsewhere so as not to hijack, my bad!
No problem posting that here! I just want people to understand that different tubing usages are being discussed. (I may not have initially made it clear that the tubing I tested was being used for water circulation pumps.)
All is good! Thanks for participating! :)
 

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