Tips for Upgrading Tank

kittenbritches

The Cat's Pajamas
View Badges
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Messages
1,547
Reaction score
5,686
Location
Rocky Mountains
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I'm sure it's been asked a million times before, and I'm *assuming* it will be the same as when I had to tear down and replace my leaking 40B a week ago. BUT!! Are there things I should consider that might not be on my radar as I upgrade this week?

I'm switching from my HOB build to a sump, (Red Sea Reefer 250), and obviously gaining a few gallons in the process. I've already ordered all of my gear and upgrades and they'll be trickling in this week, so I'm mostly looking for advice on making the process as smooth as I can for myself and my stock.

When you upgraded, was there something you wish you had thought about beforehand or something you'd do differently if you were upgrading today? Or was there something you did that was super smart and now you can impart some of your wisdom? :)
 

Staghorn

Original Reef Gangster
View Badges
Joined
Feb 12, 2013
Messages
876
Reaction score
1,592
Location
West Palm Beach FL
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Make sure you have an air stone or some power heads circulating the water, use heaters to make sure the livestock doesn’t get a temp shock. Try to match your parameters in the new water including temperature as closely as possible. Have a plan for the scape. It’s a nightmare trying to scape a tank in a time crunch. Have plenty of glue and or epoxy in hand. If you have any algae take advantage and scrub off as much as possible before returning to the new tank hydrogen peroxide works great to kill algae. Empty and clean equipment holding water, sump reactors etc. , bacteria dies super fast when oxygen is depleted and can produce hydrogen sulfide among other things that can cause issues. Be that person, call a few friends to help, I’m sure they’ve called you when the needed help moving or to pick them up from jail at 3:00 am(?). Good luck. Don’t call me.
 

Lost in the Sauce

BANGERANG!!!!
View Badges
Joined
Feb 10, 2021
Messages
18,889
Reaction score
91,536
Location
Southern California
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
If possible, I would move the FROM tank first and have the new tank fully set up and ready before you begin the livestock transfer. This can be done a few days in advance of the move. Leak testing and figuring out you don't have a fitting in the middle of a transfer can cause a lot of stress.


Always have way more water on hand, than you think you will use.

Be prepared to run carbon for a week after the change over to suck up anything the Corals release into the water.
 

Goaway

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 17, 2020
Messages
16,179
Reaction score
55,488
Location
Illinios
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Keep all your tank water that you can. You do not want 100% fresh. Use all your old filter media. Rinse sand clean. Clean up rocks if you feel like it , dispose of dirty water.

Unless you are running 2 systems.
 

DaddyFish

“5 percenter”
View Badges
Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
1,238
Reaction score
1,717
Location
Dallas NC
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
If you have some 1-gallon buckets that fit inside 5-gal buckets, use them like a double-boiler setup to hold your fish with minimal temperature loss while waiting. If not, preset heaters from Petco/PetSmart in 5-gal buckets is great temporary livestock housing.
 

LRT

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 20, 2020
Messages
10,196
Reaction score
42,134
Location
mesa arizona
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
If your comfortable that you have great, healthy water quality and not going to be bringing mistakes over to new system than by all means use your water from current system it will make the transition alot smoother with less variables to control.
Having said that.
Match your new water parameters to old tank water params as close as humanly possible..
Watch those parameters closely with daily monitoring. If your dosing, expect daily dosing to continue Day 1 like your tank never missed a beat. Extremely important. Your trying to create and extension of your current cycled tank and you want that extension to match as closely as possible.
When I say params especially watch your Nitrates and Phosphates and don't let bottom out. Depending on amount of phosphates you have in system dont be surprised if alot of your phosphates get sucked out of water column onto new surfaces first cpl months. Id seriously expect this and be prepared for it.
UV sterilizer is your best friend here. Id seriously suggest you invest in one for this move.
Good luck
 

LRT

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 20, 2020
Messages
10,196
Reaction score
42,134
Location
mesa arizona
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Just thought I'd add.
If your not entirely comfortable your water quality is supremely healthy and your not going to be bring over any nasties like algae or anything of the sort. By all means use your water from system.
But if you have any doubts I'd suggest using new water. Just because your current system is able to handle these nasties doesn't necessarily mean your new one will have what it takes to combat nasties especially on new surfaces.
New water column does wonders for nutrient control and battling algae in new system. Flip side to that though. Like I said just watch your nutrient levels and ensure they don't bottom out.
This is where UV is especially your best friend with brand new water column.
 

LRT

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 20, 2020
Messages
10,196
Reaction score
42,134
Location
mesa arizona
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Make sure you have an air stone or some power heads circulating the water, use heaters to make sure the livestock doesn’t get a temp shock. Try to match your parameters in the new water including temperature as closely as possible. Have a plan for the scape. It’s a nightmare trying to scape a tank in a time crunch. Have plenty of glue and or epoxy in hand. If you have any algae take advantage and scrub off as much as possible before returning to the new tank hydrogen peroxide works great to kill algae. Empty and clean equipment holding water, sump reactors etc. , bacteria dies super fast when oxygen is depleted and can produce hydrogen sulfide among other things that can cause issues. Be that person, call a few friends to help, I’m sure they’ve called you when the needed help moving or to pick them up from jail at 3:00 am(?). Good luck. Don’t call me.
Great advice.
Most definetely take this as full advantage to thoroughly clean up all rock and sand. And then clean it again haha. Seriously though.
 

LRT

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 20, 2020
Messages
10,196
Reaction score
42,134
Location
mesa arizona
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I'm sure it's been asked a million times before, and I'm *assuming* it will be the same as when I had to tear down and replace my leaking 40B a week ago. BUT!! Are there things I should consider that might not be on my radar as I upgrade this week?

I'm switching from my HOB build to a sump, (Red Sea Reefer 250), and obviously gaining a few gallons in the process. I've already ordered all of my gear and upgrades and they'll be trickling in this week, so I'm mostly looking for advice on making the process as smooth as I can for myself and my stock.

When you upgraded, was there something you wish you had thought about beforehand or something you'd do differently if you were upgrading today? Or was there something you did that was super smart and now you can impart some of your wisdom? :)
Can I ask what your current nutrient levels are and age of current tank?
I feel like this is going to totally dictate how your going to want to tackle this upgrade.
 
OP
OP
kittenbritches

kittenbritches

The Cat's Pajamas
View Badges
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Messages
1,547
Reaction score
5,686
Location
Rocky Mountains
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Can I ask what your current nutrient levels are and age of current tank?
I feel like this is going to totally dictate how your going to want to tackle this upgrade.
It's a young tank -- 68 days. Starting to see a bit of diatoms on sand and rock, but not much.

Current parameters (tested last night):

Temp: 78° F
SG: 1.025
pH: 8.0
KH: 9.5
NH3: 0ppm
N03: 15ppm
PO4: 0.03ppm
Ca: 500ppm
Mg: 1320ppm
 
OP
OP
kittenbritches

kittenbritches

The Cat's Pajamas
View Badges
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Messages
1,547
Reaction score
5,686
Location
Rocky Mountains
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
To all y'all suggesting a UV sterilizer, do you have any brand recommendations? An argument for plumbed separately vs in-sump (if that's even a thing -- I'm still trying to research and educate myself)?
 
Last edited:

LRT

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 20, 2020
Messages
10,196
Reaction score
42,134
Location
mesa arizona
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
It's a young tank -- 68 days. Starting to see a bit of diatoms on sand and rock, but not much.

Current parameters (tested last night):

Temp: 78° F
SG: 1.025
pH: 8.0
KH: 9.5
NH3: 0ppm
N03: 15ppm
PO4: 0.03ppm
Ca: 500ppm
Mg: 1320ppm
Ok your still going through the break in phase so should be ok swapping full system with water and all. Be especially diligent watching params and nutrient levels im sure you will need to keep them dialed in new system.
Definetely remove all nasties that you possibly can before swap.
I dont have a Jeboa UV but the prices seem super reasonable compared to all the others. I think I seen a 55 watt for 60 dollars.
Wish I could tell you my UV was hard plumbed and fancy but its not. Im using a second hand 40 watt pentair I got from lfs. Its literally zip tied to side of my sump with pump in sump recirculating sump water atm.
 

Wyvern

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 6, 2021
Messages
370
Reaction score
367
Location
Pinellas FL
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Ok your still going through the break in phase so should be ok swapping full system with water and all. Be especially diligent watching params and nutrient levels im sure you will need to keep them dialed in new system.
Definetely remove all nasties that you possibly can before swap.
I dont have a Jeboa UV but the prices seem super reasonable compared to all the others. I think I seen a 55 watt for 60 dollars.
Wish I could tell you my UV was hard plumbed and fancy but its not. Im using a second hand 40 watt pentair I got from lfs. Its literally zip tied to side of my sump with pump in sump recirculating sump water atm.
I was thinking about that myself, I have a 24W green killing machine in sump, so instead of tweaking my return for max performance, you can just do that in-sump, makes servicing easier too since the return pump can stay online.

I could also easily plumb it into one of my returns since I split it.
 
Back
Top