torch- hammer-frogspawn recede problem

[volitan85]

Hi everyone. I've been noticing something strange in my Hammer - Torch and frogspawn corals for a while now. ı lost so many of these species. ı had bj disease. and ı took the heads whıch ones are ınfected. so ıts gone. but ı have another problems. I can't keep these creatures alive for a long time. favias,chalices,musrooms, some hammers,ınvertabrates are healthy and growıng well. some of them lost color because of hıgh phosphate.
Only the torch-hammer and frogspawn corals are dying. My other corals are healthy, only their colors are darkening.

Their fleshy parts have receded.

I'm struggling with high phosphate levels. I reduced it from 0.4 to 0.2, and now it's at 0.01. Let me write down the aquarium parameters for you.
my aquarium is 800 liters.

ı am runnıng my tank over 1 year now.

nıtrate:36
ph: 8.2
kh:8.6
mg:1420
ca:580
phosphate:0.01

ı started dosıng aquaforest nıtraphos mınus. ( daily)
ı am usıng rowaphos ın my media reactor


-ı have BK deluxe 250 skımmer runnıng.
-coral box dca 12000 pump ıs circulatıng the tank.
- ı have 2 qps 9 and 1 ew 28 pumps runnıng ınsıde.
- ı have aquawiz runnıng for stable kh.
- Lighting : vertex illumina 260 - runnıng 10 hours

I'm very sorry for the losses I've suffered. I've almost reached the point of giving up the hobby. A coral I bought bloomed beautifully at first, but over time its flesh shrank and it died. Its colors faded.


Friends, I really need your help. If anyone has encountered this tissue retraction problem, I would appreciate your assistance.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

How many of the light fixtures do you have? I'm not familiar with this light so I just googled it, it seems only 90 watts? If you have only one fixture of 90 watts, that would be the problem.

 

[gabriellar]

Your nitrate seems to be on the higher end? My torch/hammers are happier when the nitrate is around 15-20. Also, your calcium looks really high, too. I don't know if high calcium can do any harm in the long term, gonna see if anyone more experienced can answer this question, but the recommended range is usually 400-480.

 

[Shirak]

Your starving them with no phosphates. I would aim for .05 - .1ppm PO4.

Post photos under white lights so we can get a look at things!

 

[volitan85]

How many of the light fixtures do you have? I'm not familiar with this light so I just googled it, it seems only 90 watts? If you have only one fixture of 90 watts, that would be the problem.

hi. thank you for the reply. my vertex light is 360 watts. its the 120 cm long model.

 

[volitan85]

Your starving them with no phosphates. I would aim for .05 - .1ppm PO4.

Post photos under white lights so we can get a look at things!

hi. my phosphate was 0.4 before whıch ıs very hıgh. so ıf they starve, at 0.4 phosphate they shouldnt be. after ı added phosphates lower materıals, its now 0.01. before ıt was 0.4

 

[volitan85]

How many of the light fixtures do you have? I'm not familiar with this light so I just googled it, it seems only 90 watts? If you have only one fixture of 90 watts, that would be the problem.

these are the lights features

xclusive features:
■Fixture's width 12"( 300mm), available lengths 1' (300mm),
■Fixture's height; side 1.25"(32mm) / middle 1.77"(45mm).
■Length of cord from fixture to wall plug; 3 meters.
■Body / Heatsink made out of Anodized extruded Aluminum.
■End caps, split box and other plastic pieces made from PC.
■Clear Cover made out of super clear PC rated for up to 125 deg C.
■White LEDs at 7000Kelvin, Blue at 470nm, Royal Blue at 450nm.
■40W consumption per pad, 16LEDs per pad, 8White, 8Blue and 8Royal blue.
■Expected LEDs life time 60,000 hours at 125 degree core diode temperature (Per Manufacturer).
■One of the highest Lumen maintenance factor available; LM80.
■80W per foot (300mm) / 32 LEDs per foot (300mm) / 2 modules per foot (300mm).
■Available auxiliary modules for fine color tuning available in RED, Green, and UV.
■Available in 90 270 V / 50 60Hz.
■SilenX fans less than 14dBm noise. Automatic, Always ON and always OFF modes available.
■Supplied with Single row wire hanging Kit.
■Optional Mounting Kit available.
■Meanwell drivers 2 year warranty, certified, UL/ CSA /TUV/PSE/EMC/ETL/GS.
■CE, EMC and RoHs Certified.
■2 year manufacture warranty.
■Designed by Vertex Aquaristik "Made in Austria".
Design:
■Thermovap heatsink design, sleek yet most efficient in heat dispersion technology.
■Wireless communication between LEDs & controller. Communication via; IEEE 811.15.4 Sensor Net.
■Airshaft heatexchange design for maximum heat extraction.
■Opticsfree design provides maximum coverage and ample penetration.
■Does not promote irregular growth patterns in SPS corals, due to use of optics.
■Totally modular, all parts are changeable by disconnecting connections, no need for wiring.
■Easy to upgrade and repair due to modular design of the fixture.
■Userfriendly operating program and menus.
■Could be networked to other fixtures.
■Only one cord exits the fixture irrelevant of fixture length.
■Orange / Black, back lid LCD Controller.
■Available PC software for expert mode accessed via Vlink USB stick. Communication via; IEEE 811.15.4 Sensor Net via USB stick.
Technical Data:
■Diodes running at 750 mA, consuming 2.5W, running them below recommended threshold to increase life and decrease degradation factor by a great value.
■Fixture Wattage: (300mm: 80W), (600mm: 160W), (900mm: 240W), (1200mm: 320W), (1500mm: 400W), (1800mm: 480W).
■Diodes approximate core temperature: 105 deg C.
■SilenX fans: 1.08W / 24CFM.
Control:
■LCD controller capable of demo, custom and light studio for advance color composition.
■Fully controllable by LED color group, modules, auxiliary modules and programmed custom groups...
■Programmable, sunrise, sunset, midday scenarios
■Total weather simulation; clouds, rainy day, lightning
■Optional fan shutoff mode via controller.
■Expert color composition, Seamless setting implementation via Vlink.
■Realtime color sampling, watch the light color composed live in front of your aquarium via Vlink.
■Synaptic 29,5306 day moon cycle control via Vlink.
■Multiple lighting scenario custom or preset available via Vlink.
■Could be linked to Vertex Cerebra wirelessly for additional total network management.
Upgrade:
■Energy transfer via piercing contacts into integrated cables, no wiring or soldering modules.
■All diodes & components in network "with each other", "within each module", "between modules" and "modules and the controller" wirelessly.
■Easy to upgrade or replace modules, due to total wireless communication and unique energy distribution, no wiring or soldering modules.
■Auxiliary Modules available in RED, GREEN and UV, to further fine compose your light output as desired.
Special highlights:
■Capable of growing any type of corals, irrelevant of how high their demand of light.
■Equivalent to high Kelvin 400W MH bulb on Eballast.
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■EMC certified, will not affect other electronics or devices in close proximity.
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[Shirak]

hi. my phosphate was 0.4 before whıch ıs very hıgh. so ıf they starve, at 0.4 phosphate they shouldnt be. after ı added phosphates lower materıals, its now 0.01. before ıt was 0.4

.4 is on the high side but not detrimental and it won't cause color loss on lps. Dropping to .01 from .4 can cause a lot of stress. You mention the others are darkening? So maybe a light issue. Have you ever checked par level?

Photos of the corals in white light would help.

Was mentioned above but Ca at 580? Ca test kits are not super accurate but that is pretty high and while not likely to cause an issue with the corals may indicate salinity is off. What are you using for salinity measurement and how are you calibrating?

Also might help to know what you are dosing and feeding.

 

[volitan85]

Your starving them with no phosphates. I would aim for .05 - .1ppm PO4.

Post photos under white lights so we can get a look at things!

 

[volitan85]

0.4 biraz yüksek ama zararlı değil ve LPS'de renk kaybına neden olmaz. 0.4'ten 0.01'e düşürmek çok fazla strese neden olabilir. Diğerlerinin karardığından bahsettiniz, bu yüzden belki de ışıkla ilgili bir sorun var. PAR seviyesini hiç kontrol ettiniz mi?

Mercanların beyaz ışık altında çekilmiş fotoğrafları yardımcı olurdu.

Yukarıda da belirtildiği gibi, 580'de Ca değeri ne anlama geliyor? Ca test kitleri çok doğru sonuç vermez, ancak bu oldukça yüksek bir değer ve mercanlarda sorun yaratması olası olmasa da tuzluluk oranının düşük olduğunu gösterebilir. Tuzluluk ölçümü için ne kullanıyorsunuz ve nasıl kalibre ediyorsunuz?

Ayrıca hangi dozda ve hangi besinleri verdiğinizi bilmek de faydalı olabilir.

Hello. ı dıdnt check par level so ı dont have any ınfo on that. ı am testıng wıth hanna marıne master. for salınıty test ı use mılvaukee ma 887. and my salinity is 1024. ı calibrate ıt wıth distilled water.

 

[Sniklefritz]

Do you dip your corals? Could be a pest. Are you sure your fish don't nip at them? I also agree bringing phosphates down from .4 to .01 is a fairly dramatic decrease, especially if it was done in a short amount of time, it could do more harm than help.

Hammers are a fairly "easy" coral, so if they're dying, you must have something pretty badly off.

Personally I would do a 40-50%+ water change with a good quality salt like Tropic Marin or another salt that you know has good parameters once a week, and double check the salinity with another refractometer. Or take a water sample down to your LFS and have them test to be SURE, your testing kits/devices are correct. Only time I've ever had where my CA and Alk were that far out of balance was when my Mag was super low around 1050ppm. Never hurts to double check.

Also see if someone close to you or your LFS has a par meter you could rent or borrow to be sure you're in the correct PAR range. Our eyes are a terrible judge of how much light a coral should get. There are a couple on amazon that are not very expensive and have been tested against ones like the Apogee and found to be within 5-10% of them, which for me is close enough.

Either way, good luck and hope you get it figured out!!