Turf algae using silicates?

[ReeferSpot]

I've been having a serious algae problem but I'm not sure if it is gha or turf algae.
This would be my second time shutting down a tank that started with LIVE rock because of this algae taking over.

Since the start of the tank my No3 has been 5-10ppm and p04 at around 0.03 which leads me to wonder if something else is fueling it. I recently did an icp test that detected 223ug/l of Silicates in my Rodi and about the same in my tank water. I've read online that only diatoms use silicates but this is definitely not diatoms. My tank is going on 8 months. I manually remove it and it grows back within days.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I've been having a serious algae problem but I'm not sure if it is gha or turf algae.
This would be my second time shutting down a tank that started with LIVE rock because of this algae taking over.

Since the start of the tank my No3 has been 5-10ppm and p04 at around 0.03 which leads me to wonder if something else is fueling it. I recently did an icp test that detected 223ug/l of Silicates in my Rodi and about the same in my tank water. I've read online that only diatoms use silicates but this is definitely not diatoms. My tank is going on 8 months. I manually remove it and it grows back within days.

Silicates generally contribute to diatoms but can also create a base for surface and turf algae
Without a picture under white lighting, will be hard to determine what type you have

 

[GarrettT]

Turf algae won't be an issue removing. What are you testing your po4 with? What size is your tank?

 

[ReeferSpot]

Silicates generally contribute to diatoms but can also create a base for surface and turf algae
Without a picture under white lighting, will be hard to determine what type you have

 

[ReeferSpot]

Turf algae won't be an issue removing. What are you testing your po4 with? What size is your tank?

ICP test confirmed my po4 results from my hanna checker. The algae comes off easily in big chunks but it just keeps coming back. I've been feeding every other day for 2 months which had no affect. I'm also growing cheato I'm my sump which grows fast also. There is also lots of the algae growing in my refugium along with the chaeto.

 

[GarrettT]

Assuming it's turf algae, I'd make sure your po4 continues stay at or above 0.03ppm. Po4 tends to fluctuate heavily, so your ICP test may not mean much.

What size is you tank?

 

[ReefChasers]

I would try some flucanazole personally ive seen results in the past worth a shot before you tear it down

 

[ReeferSpot]

Assuming it's turf algae, I'd make sure your po4 continues stay at or above 0.03ppm. Po4 tends to fluctuate heavily, so your ICP test may not mean much.

What size is you tank?

My tank is roughly 50 gallons.

 

[ReefChasers]

Check into scientific research on the "algae feed hypothesis" and turf algae feedback mechanisms


Here is a good one

Feedback mechanisms stabilise degraded turf algal systems at a CO2 seep site

Human activities are rapidly changing the structure and function of coastal marine ecosystems. Large-scale replacement of kelp forests and coral reefs with turf algal mats is resulting in homogenous habitats that have less ecological and human value. ...

www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Suggest to keep pH above 8.1 according to the science but turf algae seems to proliferate with excess co2 in the water and it creates a feedback loop where by turf algae growth further depresses pH and increases co2 its a nasty cycle

 

[ReefChasers]

Can try a tripple threat approach: force pH up with kalkwasser, medium dose of flucanazole (possibly back to back) and 1ml of peroxide per 10 gallons of system per day.

Add pumps to dead zones and get rid of ammonia producing dead spots like overflow and return chamber or else where you find.

Be mindful of nutrient introduction if nutrient export isnt up to snuff. Correct the export mechanisms if you can. (Better to import heavy and export heavy imo but its a balance).

I dont like peroxide and would never use in a commercial system as it is an indiscriminate killer that can do more harm than good at times but it does have a dampening effect on turf algae there is no doubt and a commercial system doesnt necessarily have the same "difficult to clean" issues as a home tank with rocks etc.

If you do all the above plus manual removal i am pretty sure you will reclaim the ground youve lost.

 

[GarrettT]

My tank is roughly 50 gallons.

I was going to suggest a foxface, but that would not work for your size system. Get two tuxedo and two variegated urchins at your LFS (bigger, cheaper, and easier to acclimate). For reference below.

Pincushion Urchin

Pincushion Urchins are captive bred, completely reef safe, and will consume many types of unwanted algae on the rocks. See below for more information.

www.algaebarn.com

Tuxedo Urchin

Tuxedo Urchin (Mespilia sp.) The blue and and red tuxedo urchins (Mespilia globulus and Mespilia cf glubulus respectively) are not only beautiful and easy to care for, but they also serve a key ecological role in their environment by consuming (especially) filamentous algae. Totally reef-safe!

www.algaebarn.com

Continue to manually remove as much as you can. Once majority of the algae is gone, bring 2 or 3 of your urchins back to the LFS, as they will die from not having enough food.

Your pic on the left looks like turf, while the one on the right looks like GHA.

 

[GarrettT]

Can try a tripple threat approach: force pH up with kalkwasser, medium dose of flucanazole (possibly back to back) and 1ml of peroxide per 10 gallons of system per day.

I keep my PH around 8.3, did two rounds fluconazole, dosed h202 and it had no impact on the turf in my system.

 

[vetteguy53081]

It’s wire algae and one you want to pull by hand. Sometimes you may get lucky and are able to press down hard with your thumb then lift and peel off in one sheet
If no, requires scrubbing off with firm toothbrush and dipping in peroxide and returning to the tank
Snails such as ninja star, conch and carribean blue leg hermits will assist with post cleaning

 

[ReefChasers]

I keep my PH around 8.3, did two rounds fluconazole, dosed h202 and it had no impact on the turf in my system.

That's surprising, definitely ph alone isn't a solution once the algae is already set in, but H202 usually wrecks algae.. it's just at what point is it also wrecking the corals and other livestock we care about..

Flucanazole isn't effective on all types usually just 'bryopsis' but I have seen it work on other problem types similar to the ops but it is hard to get a solid ID on algae usually.

 

[shakacuz]

an urchin, 2 pitho crabs, 2 emerald crabs, and a good handful of blue legged hermit crabs and ninja star astrea snails will clear that up!

 

[ReeferSpot]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm going to go at the rocks with a steel brush to get off as much as I can. I would pick up some urchins but I'm not sure if my lfs would take them back after the mission is complete.

 

[shakacuz]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm going to go at the rocks with a steel brush to get off as much as I can. I would pick up some urchins but I'm not sure if my lfs would take them back after the mission is complete.

ask them?

 

[ReeferSpot]

So its been 2 weeks since I took out all of my rock and scrubbed them clean with a steel brush from Home Depot. After scrubbing I lightly sprayed the light facing side of the rocks with hydrogen peroxide. I brushed off about a softball size clump of algae between the rocks and the walls of my sump all together. Bought 5 more ninja star snails which have been keeping the rocks spotless along with my trochus snails. The algae doesn't seem to be growing back either. While I lost some coralline, the steel brush really allowed me to get into the crevices and seemed to uproot the algae unlike pulling it off with my fingers.