Tyler's 220 gallon in wall build thread!

[Daniel@R2R]

Yikes! Glad you caught that!

 

[TK_KW]

Yikes! Glad you caught that!

No doubt. Makes me slightly paranoid now . I should add another Co2 and smoke into that room maybe.

 

[Blutspitze]

Very scary for sure! Glad that you caught the issue before a bigger problem.

 

[TK_KW]

@HotRocks

I have purple queens still showing signs of internal as still stringy white poop, as there still being picky and only eating cyclops. All other fish in same batch look great and normal colour poop. Ive continued medicated mysis for them this whole time. I'm trasfering this batch of fish into my display. But would you keep the purple queens in QT until resolved? Or trasfer and continue feeding medicated cyclops in display?

Problem is tomorrow I have to get next batch of fish out of copper and into sterile tank, which is currently houseing the purple queens and others I'm starting to transfer.

I could just leave purple queens in QT. And just run them through entire process again, with the fish I'm trasfering out of copper.

What do you think I should do?

Edit: #reefsquad, just looking for best solution

Thanks

 

[TK_KW]

Also another question #reefsquad. I have rock soaking in rodi water for last 4 weeks, as I was trying to kill off digitate hydroids. But considering they got into my display regardless my best efforts of scrubbing and dipping coral. I want to add this rock back into my sump.

Is there any problems in doing this? Add back slowly or does it matter?

 

[dwest]

Also another question #reefsquad. I have rock soaking in rodi water for last 4 weeks, as I was trying to kill off digitate hydroids. But considering they got into my display regardless my best efforts of scrubbing and dipping coral. I want to add this rock back into my sump.

Is there any problems in doing this? Add back slowly or does it matter?

If there is chance that there is still decaying organic matter in the rock, I would rinse really well and add a piece at a time slowly. I would be concerned about ammonia. It really depends on the relative amount of rocks you are adding compared to what you already have in your system though. I’d go slow.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Also another question #reefsquad. I have rock soaking in rodi water for last 4 weeks, as I was trying to kill off digitate hydroids. But considering they got into my display regardless my best efforts of scrubbing and dipping coral. I want to add this rock back into my sump.

Is there any problems in doing this? Add back slowly or does it matter?

It really needs to be cured because it's now dead rock. Throw it into Brutes with a powerhead and saltwater and let it stew for a month or so, doing water changes when necessary. Otherwise you'll see a spike in nitrates and phosphates while the death leaches out of the rock. Also a potential of an ammonia spike.

 

[TK_KW]

Hello new friends

 

[TK_KW]

Picked up some rr acro colonies from a local reefing friend. RR pink cadillac and others I can't recall. And a yellow millipora. Is my transport method normal lol? Precious cargo goes in baby seats right?

 

[Blutspitze]

Hooray! Looking forward to seeing everything in the tank!

 

[TK_KW]

Ok, so I'm going back and forth. Like beating a dead horse on my Tangs list. #reefsquad, @scott11106 what Tangs should I avoid, regardless how much people like them. I'm almost certain of a trio of Zebrasoma's but after that I'm pickled.........

 

[NC122606]

Hello new friends

Nice!!!
If you do not mind me asking but what is all in there?

 

[TK_KW]

Nice!!!
If you do not mind me asking but what is all in there?

A bunch of fish that caught flukes......but survivors are some black storm clowns purple dottybacks, royal gramma, nothing to special. Had some Ventralis anthius in this order, super expensive.....but dead ***. I'm now revamping my QT process to include a FW dip on arrival so this doesn't happen again.

 

[scott11106]

I start every thing on the sand bed for a week for observation and acclimation. Then for the corals that don’t stay on or near the bottom I move them to a frag rack and move them up about 4”. After another week 2”, then another week and another 2”.
As the rack gets to the right height I move the corals off and to the spot I want them.

i also start everything in a magnetic frag holder on bottom of tank after 30 days of qt where they where on bottom of qt tank then i move them up. i never change the lighting schedule on main display

 

[TK_KW]

I'm absolutely having a nightmare of a time regeristing any Nitrate or Phosphates. @scott11106 , #reefsquad is it really that detrimental if Nitrates and Phospates are always zero. My phosphates have risen up to .4 time to time. I feel like Phosphates are either high, or zero. And it typically goes back to zero within a couple days. I feed three times a day with auto feeder, and roids and mysis once a week.

Should I get a hanna ULR checker instead of the standard Phospate?

And to note, I've haven't registered Nitrates in my display for couple months now

 

[Billldg]

What is your load on the tank? Also, Any algae issues, whether its in the tank or in the sump?

I dose NeoPhos to keep my phosphates up.

 

[TK_KW]

What is your load on the tank? Also, Any algae issues, whether its in the tank or in the sump?

I dose NeoPhos to keep my phosphates up.

Mild Algea in sump, and mild in display. Tank has 10 fish. That for phosphates, what about Nitrates? And what are the effects if both are always at zero?

 

[Billldg]

Algae itself will suck up nitrates and phosphates, just depends on how much algae you have. They are linked, but usually nitrates will rise if phosphates are at zero because bacteria needs phosphates to help them get rid of nitrates. Not sure how the break down of how and why as I am not a scientist, lol! I also dealt with 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates for a while and when I added a higher par light fixture to the tank Dinos exploded along with cyano which makes me believe that it was always their just waiting for a trigger. At that time though my load on the tank was very light, since them I have added 3 tangs and they alone add alot of nitrates and phosphates to the tank. It may be as simple as feeding more to the tank, but lets see if we can get some people that know more than myself involved.
#reefsquad
@Randy Holmes-Farley

 

[Billldg]

Just thought of something, are you skimming? If so you may need to turn it off and let the tank get a little dirtier.

 

[TK_KW]

Algae itself will suck up nitrates and phosphates, just depends on how much algae you have. They are linked, but usually nitrates will rise if phosphates are at zero because bacteria needs phosphates to help them get rid of nitrates. Not sure how the break down of how and why as I am not a scientist, lol! I also dealt with 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates for a while and when I added a higher par light fixture to the tank Dinos exploded along with cyano which makes me believe that it was always their just waiting for a trigger. At that time though my load on the tank was very light, since them I have added 3 tangs and they alone add alot of nitrates and phosphates to the tank. It may be as simple as feeding more to the tank, but lets see if we can get some people that know more than myself involved.
#reefsquad
@Randy Holmes-Farley

@Billldg @Randy Holmes-Farley

So some photos of tank with blues, and then all lights on. As well as sump. Sump was spotless 10days ago when I scrubbed it. Chateo is growing nicely.

So only at one point on my charts i registered Nitrates at 2.5 for about a week, dropped to 1, then to zero. All withing two weeks.

Phosphates I've read as high as .7 then would drop. Read zero for awhile, then rise again, then drop. I've had it go a weeks at zero, then jump to. 5 for few days. Anytime I had seen it at .5 I ran a bag of gfo to drop it as I was paranoid it was to high?

I haven't changed feeding amounts at all, in months.

My frag tank is always stable, literally. .5 Nitrate and .1 phospates. Never changes. But my display is all over the map with phospates.

Ive tested Phospates every day for last 6 weeks watching it.

Should I just buy a ULR checker and see what its reading in ppb?