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I tested with 2 kits just to confirm? I do not have any major algae issues but I do have green color on the rocks and sand and some very short hair?Algae eats it before it can register, you don't have any, or testing error.
So how do I treat for it if can't test for it, my nitrates though is at 10-15.Many kits cannot read low enough to say you are low enough to restrict algae growth with low phosphate. It needs to be lower than 0.03 ppm (much lower for some species of algae) ,and the error in many kits becomes significant at that level.
So how do I treat for it if can't test for it, my nitrates though is at 10-15.
I did test with the phosphorus Hannah ultra low And that gave me readings somewhere between 0 and 7ppb.Some test methods can detect levels to be sure you are not going too low. The Hanna ULR phosphorus checker, for example.
That said, if fighting the algae is the issue, reducing phosphate may not be the best way to go.
I did test with the phosphorus Hannah ultra low And that gave me readings somewhere between 0 and 7ppb.
So what would be the right course of action?
Started gfo few weeks back but stopped it now because I started to carbon dose with nopox.0 ppb is too low for corals to thrive. 7 ppb is likely fine.
I would not try to lower phosphate more. Are you doing anything to lower phosphate, such as GFO?
Started gfo few weeks back but stopped it now because I started to carbon dose with nopox.
I do have tangs and snails and hermits, but yet i clearly still have a nutrient issue .OK, but I'll just note that reducing nutrients isn't always going to reduce algae before it begins to harm corals. Other methods, such as herbivores, may be more successful. Some green growth on the glass is normal/desirable, IMO.
I do have tangs and snails and hermits, but yet i clearly still have a nutrient issue .
Well, I think many people are under the mistaken assumption that algae necessarily means a nutrient "problem". Algae needs lots of things, including nutrients, but just because algae grows does not mean nutrients are necessarily too high.
That said, if you can carefully use GFO to intercept the phosphate that comes from food metabolism before the algae gets it, you may be able to reduce the algae growth substantially.
What about nopox?
The reason I remove the gfo is because red sea advised me to do do when using nopox. Should I be running both at the same time?Organic carbon dosing, such as NOPOX 9or viengar, etc.), is effective at reducing nitrate and to a lesser extent, phosphate. It is a fine thing to try and see the effect on algae, but I would not assume you will readily eliminate algae until the nutrient levels are quite low.
The reason I remove the gfo is because red sea advised me to do do when using nopox. Should I be running both at the same time?
I'm honestly confused at this point my tank is clearly having some issue and i can't put my finger on it. I can't keep any sps at all they all die within a week or 2. All my parameters are good.What is the reasoning behind considering nopox if you are getting reading of 0-7? I add phosphate (not just from food but adding it directly-no gfo) daily to keep it off zero. Especially lps really benefit from this.