UV Sterilizer for Redsea Max Nano?

Pikemartin83

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
55
Reaction score
10
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Good evening! I'm looking to add a sterilizer for my max, specifically the 8 watt Hanger Ultraviolet. Any other suggestions that would work well with the max nano? I dont want to add a sump.

Im a little concerned that adding it will make it difficult in keeping all chambers at the optimum water level.

Thanks

Chris
 

reefsaver

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 31, 2021
Messages
365
Reaction score
298
Location
The Milkyway
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Add the sump, you won't regret it. The way I see it, every liter of water you add just means more stability.
Even if you left the sump equipment free other than a return pump, it's going to help your system.
The sump and added water volume will be more than enough to help control algae and be very versatile in what equipment you can add to your reef.
I have an All In One Waterbox25G Peninsula, and I've been contemplating drilling it for a while and adding a sump.
It would just give me so many more options, and add stability.
A sump for me would be a perfect way to have an efficient nitrate and phosphate removal system. I could culture natural pest algae in the sump or house some Chaeto and a Fuge light to suck all the nutrients out of my system.
 
OP
OP
Pikemartin83

Pikemartin83

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
55
Reaction score
10
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thanks for the suggestion but I really don’t want to go with a sump. I want to leave the setup stock as much as possible. Anyone else?
 

Blue Spot Octopus

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 30, 2016
Messages
3,315
Reaction score
1,395
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Have the IM Lagoon 25 no rear chamber, so I had to add a sump, so $200 for the sump, $150 dollars for the skimmer, $100 dollars for the fancy matching ATO chamber and I look at videos of normal IM Lagoon 25 with rear chamber, don't go with a sump. Save your money get Tropic Marine All in One, get on a strict schedule woo water changes, and change your media and filter floss.

I like what Reefsaver stated use your sump for a fuge style sump versus a mechanical type sump. So you definitely have two good ways to go. KISS
 

reefsaver

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 31, 2021
Messages
365
Reaction score
298
Location
The Milkyway
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hi @Pikemartin83 , were you ever able to find a suitable solution for UV on the Max Nano?
My best suggestion would be the Fluval In-Line Clarifier UVC.
Although after seeing this quote in a thread I'm a little lost. I don't think it'll actually do much or enough.
JPSika08,

You have a 150-watt HO Emperor you plan to use on a 300-gallon total water volume tank. Emperor suggests for killing marine protists (ich), you would need an exposure of 180,000 µWsec/cm2 running at 840 GPH to do that.

According to research by the University of Florida:

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa164

"Use of ultraviolet (UV) sterilization to kill theronts has been suggested, based on research involving Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (freshwater "ich"). The recommended UV dose for Ichthyophthirius theronts is 100,000 µWsec/cm2 (Hoffman 1974). However, UV doses required for Cryptocaryon irritans are anecdotal or extrapolated, and range from 280,000 µWsec/cm2 (industry numbers) to 800,000 µWsec/cm2(Colorni and Burgess 1997)."

So the extrapolated saltwater ich exposure needed to kill it with UV is anywhere from 280,000 to 800,000 µWsec/cm2. I've run with 336,000 µWsec/cm2 because I pulled that from a chart I saw many years ago for an exposure level to kill marine ich.

So to adjust Emperor's GPH from the 840 GPH needed for 180,000 µWsec/cm2 exposure to almost double the exposure suggested at 336,000 µWsec/cm2:

336,000 µWsec/cm2 ÷ 180,000 µWsec/cm2 = 1.87
840 GPH ÷ 1.87 = ~450 GPH

Running your UV at 450 GPH will effectively kill marine ich protists going through your 150-watt UV unit. The problem is most recommend at least a 3x turnover per hour for UV to be effective. Basically, the 450 GPH will kill any ich that goes through your UV, but if you don't have it turn over the tank volume at least 3x/hour, you're not killing enough of them to make a true impact to the population. For 3x turnover of your 300-gallon system, you need at least 900 GPH. So effectively, believe it or not, your unit is actually half the size it needs to be for your system as you're only running 450 GPH through it.

Again, these aren't hard rules of thumb. The 3x turnover is not a hard rule, just a suggested rule. The 280,000 µWsec/cm2 - 800,000 µWsec/cm2 extrapolated marine ich exposure value is not a hard line either, especially since it's just extrapolated from a freshwater ich exposure dose.

I just wanted to do the calculation for you to let you know where you stand and to give you comparison to suggested industry rules-of-thumb. Your own application and your intended purpose will help you decide what you really need to do. Just trying to help out a fellow hobbyist.
 

reefsaver

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 31, 2021
Messages
365
Reaction score
298
Location
The Milkyway
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
i would get at least a 15 watt or not bother
After looking around, that "Emperor" brand looks pretty high end. This is the smallest unit I could find at 18W.
I would probably go larger and add a timer though just for the repurpose ability.
1654160581034.png
 

YOYOYOReefer

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 9, 2021
Messages
1,337
Reaction score
917
Location
bloomington il
Rating - 0%
0   0   0

15 Watt Advantage UV Sterilizer with Hanger Spout - Aqua Ultraviolet​


right here in the classifieds on this site there are several posted
 
Back
Top