uv sterilizer

[45ZoaGarden]

Isn’t that what we just said? Lol

I have read other sources that say the opposite as far as flow rates. I have read more than 2 others state the flow rate for disease is slower than the flow rate for algea control. Longer Exposure time is essential for disease control.
What say you?

 

[45ZoaGarden]

It is important to have a flow rate that will turn over the pond or aquarium at least once every 2 to 3 hours for green algae control, once every 1 to 1.5 times per hour for disease prevention (Level One Sterilization)

I have read other sources that say the opposite as far as flow rates. I have read more than 2 others state the flow rate for disease is slower than the flow rate for algea control. Longer Exposure time is essential for disease control.
What say you?

You contradicted your own statement. Confusing yourself? ;Hilarious

 

[jose hernandez]

ok so which is more important bigger uv or flow?

 

[45ZoaGarden]

They’re both equally important imo. Too little a sterilizer with proper flow and it is ineffective. To much flow in an appropriate size sterilizer and it is ineffective.

ok so which is more important bigger uv or flow?

 

[Thaxxx]

LOL Yes I know. I am confused now
But..... On a happier note.
I do know home air conditioning takes humidity out of the air..
I'm just messing with ya.

 

[jose hernandez]

i have the sicce 1.5 its rated for 358gph so not sure if its enough thats why i asked for help

 

[45ZoaGarden]

i have the sicce 1.5 its rated for 358gph so not sure if its enough thats why i asked for help

That is a hair small. It will work but you might want a pump with another 1-200 gph

 

[jose hernandez]

ok

 

[ca1ore]

ok so which is more important bigger uv or flow?

In order to sterilize you must limit flow rate .... but you also need a big enough unit such that the total flow per hour is system appropriate at that flow rate. Let’s say you want to push the full volume of a 300 gallon system through the UV every hour but are limited to 10 gallons per minute per watt, you’d need at least a 60 watt sterilizer.

 

[jose hernandez]

so the 57 is not sufficent?

 

[45ZoaGarden]

so the 57 is not sufficent?

It is sufficient. An 80w would be better though.

 

[14 foot reef]

Look at page 9 here ........ All though, I believe this to be very liberal numbers. They say this is ideal turn over rate kills for lamp at end life of 14 months. I would say these numbers are max at new life. Also, I would never run the UV lamp 14 months. The reasons for my stating this is I'd rather be safe than sorry on kill rate for bacteria, viral & protozoan strains. It's so much easier to control than to attempt to delete once you have an issue. I run their UV200 sl - its 200 watts and I run it on a vectra L-1 that is controllable. If I'm wanting to concentrate on water clarity i run it wide open, if I'm adding new fish or suspect the slightest problems, I dial the Vectra L-1 down to 50%. I change my bulb at 8 months, even the my bulb cost is around $400.00 per bulb. That is way cheaper than loosing my entire system to brook or velvet. Just my .02 cents

Page 9

https://www.aquaultraviolet.com/drupal/sites/default/files/instructions/Instructions-Classic-and-Twist-Series-06-25-2015.pdf

If you can find some Old Old documentation from Steve at Emporer Aquatics (before Pentair) you will see his #'s and philosophy to be in line with what I have mentioned above.

 

[45ZoaGarden]

Look at page 9 here ........ All though, I believe this to be very liberal numbers. They say this is ideal turn over rate kills for lamp at end life of 14 months. I would say these numbers are max at new life. Also, I would never run the UV lamp 14 months. The reasons for my stating this is I'd rather be safe than sorry on kill rate for bacteria, viral & protozoan strains. It's so much easier to control than to attempt to delete once you have an issue. I run their UV200 sl - its 200 watts and I run it on a vectra L-1 that is controllable. If I'm wanting to concentrate on water clarity i run it wide open, if I'm adding new fish or suspect the slightest problems, I dial the Vectra L-1 down to 50%. I change my bulb at 8 months, even the my bulb cost is around $400.00 per bulb. That is way cheaper than loosing my entire system to brook or velvet. Just my .02 cents

Page 9

https://www.aquaultraviolet.com/drupal/sites/default/files/instructions/Instructions-Classic-and-Twist-Series-06-25-2015.pdf

If you can find some Old Old documentation from Steve at Emporer Aquatics (before Pentair) you will see his #'s and philosophy to be in line with what I have mentioned above.

That’s an expensive light bulb ;Hilarious

 

[14 foot reef]

That’s an expensive light bulb ;Hilarious

Yes the one downfall of the quality and dependability of Aqua Ultraviolet !!!! It's all relevant though. Protecting your investment.

 

[45ZoaGarden]

Yes the one downfall of the quality and dependability of Aqua Ultraviolet !!!! It's all relevant though. Protecting your investment.

Yup. I spent $3k+ so I could monitor my tank while I’m away from home. It only takes one equipment failure to kill the tank. I’d rather spend the money and have insurance just in case.

 

[saltwaterpicaso]

I have had uv for about 5 years and have always had slower flow the more contact time it has the more that is destroyed period. Nothing is going to make it out alive. I have my output right next to my skimmer intake

 

[saltwaterpicaso]

The one thing I hated about my aquauv was the crystal sleeve is very very brittle and the wiper leaked over time. I still have the unit just don't use it the jebao has been great.

 

[zoasaholic]

I don't measure uv flow rate,but i adjust uv flow the same flow output as gfo or carbon reactor output

 

[jose hernandez]

mines doesnt have the wiper

 

[jose hernandez]

really dont know what to do spent alot of $$$$$ on this build