Viparspectra 165watt, Anyone using these?

DaddyFish

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Can anyone give me an idea on how loud the fans are on the 165w model? I’ve got an AI Prime 16HD right now and running at 100% it’s quite intrusively loud. I’ve tried running lower % which reduces fan noise but then my zoas start stretching. My tank is 60cm long x 40cm x 40cm and I can’t help but feel the Viparspectra would give much better coverage end to end.
I have one installed in my basement garage over a 90. Will video it and post up shortly.
(Don't judge this new tank. I have not decided it's future yet.)

This video was shot with both channels at 100 for maximum fan speed/noise.
I would characterize the noise level at roughly half of what the 10-year old refrigerator makes on the other side of the room, and just a bit louder than the Seachem Tidal-100 HOB you see.

Link to YouTube version here

 
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Bigdaddy05

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Can anyone give me an idea on how loud the fans are on the 165w model? I’ve got an AI Prime 16HD right now and running at 100% it’s quite intrusively loud. I’ve tried running lower % which reduces fan noise but then my zoas start stretching. My tank is 60cm long x 40cm x 40cm and I can’t help but feel the Viparspectra would give much better coverage end to end.
I don't hear my fans at all!! Iv actually taken the light down to check they were on
 

Wee Mad Arthur

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Thanks, can’t watch/listen to the video I’m afraid as I’m on an iPad and embedded forum videos don’t work on apple products. For future reference only YouTube ones work.

If they’re quiet enough that you had to check they were on that would be great. I just need to be sure it’s worth swapping out my more costly prime 16hd for one of these. My mrs was only commenting a few days ago about how many things I’ve bought and then not used or changed out!
 

dtruitt

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Can anyone give me an idea on how loud the fans are on the 165w model? I’ve got an AI Prime 16HD right now and running at 100% it’s quite intrusively loud. I’ve tried running lower % which reduces fan noise but then my zoas start stretching. My tank is 60cm long x 40cm x 40cm and I can’t help but feel the Viparspectra would give much better coverage end to end.

Fans are loud on both models. Upgrading the fans is very easy though, if you get a pack of 3M butt connectors and some decent 80mm computer fans.
 

Oscar Rivera

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I love my viparspectras I've also had hydra twentysixs qnd went right back to the viparspectras!!
20201013_153631.jpg
20201010_102422.jpg
 

Wee Mad Arthur

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Added YouTube link above.

That’s brilliant, thank you. Thanks for taking the time to do that. Even with your 3 fans on the go it sounds quieter than my prime, part of the issue with the fan noise on the prime is that the fan is constantly speeding up and slowing down depending on the internal temperature. Am I correct in thinking that the fans on the Viparspectra run at a constant speed?
 

DaddyFish

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That’s brilliant, thank you. Thanks for taking the time to do that. Even with your 3 fans on the go it sounds quieter than my prime, part of the issue with the fan noise on the prime is that the fan is constantly speeding up and slowing down depending on the internal temperature. Am I correct in thinking that the fans on the Viparspectra run at a constant speed?
They are variable, but they don't have a "resonant speed" that causes additional noise or vibration. The video was shot at 100/100 power setting so the fans are running full speed.
 

Wee Mad Arthur

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They are variable, but they don't have a "resonant speed" that causes additional noise or vibration. The video was shot at 100/100 power setting so the fans are running full speed.

In that case I don’t think I’d need to worry about noise. The 165w only has 2 fans and looking at what other people are running I wouldn’t need anywhere near 100% on either channel for my relatively shallow softy tank.
 

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anthonygf

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I would get the 300 for your tank, I had one on my 46 bowfront and was great.

Specifications:

  • Dimensions: 31.5 x 8.5 x 2.4 inches. Item Weight: 15.5 lbs
  • One light is ideal for 32x24” coverage
  • Max Coverage at 12" height: 40x24”.
  • Core Coverage at 12" height: 32x24”
I did not know that post was 3 years old. How did this happen when I clicked on a new alert?
 

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Hey guys, I've been following this thread for a while trying to gauge how to monitor the settings on my light. I have the Viparspectra 300 watt over a 40 Breeder, and my main concerns are GHA and coralline growth.

Coralline grows deep purple in the shaded areas of my rock, but is very slow to grow or bleaches in the higher areas and areas with direct light. Makes me think the light is stronger than I think, but the settings are only at 50% blue, 15% white, 12" above the waterline.

Also having a real hard time with GHA. Tank is 6 months old. Thoughts on the settings?
 
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Nicholas Dushynsky

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Hey guys, I've been following this thread for a while trying to gauge how to monitor the settings on my light. I have the Viparspectra 300 watt over a 40 Breeder, and my main concerns are GHA and coralline growth.

Coralline grows deep purple in the shaded areas of my rock, but is very slow to grow or bleaches in the higher areas and areas with direct light. Makes me think the light is stronger than I think, but the settings are only at 50% blue, 15% white, 12" above the waterline.

Also having a real hard time with GHA. Tank is 6 months old. Thoughts on the settings?
Hi , GHA is probably caused by neutrients being to high. I'm going to take a guess and say you used dry rock when starting the tank. If so then it could be phosphates leaching from the rock work what are your nitrates and phosphates?

For the coraline algae, it has to compete with the gha for what it needs to grow. Get your tank in balance and it will start growing again. Don't mess with the lighting settings if things have been doing well. If you have only recently worked up to the levels your running go back down to where things were good. But do so slowly.
 

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Hey guys, I've been following this thread for a while trying to gauge how to monitor the settings on my light. I have the Viparspectra 300 watt over a 40 Breeder, and my main concerns are GHA and coralline growth.

Coralline grows deep purple in the shaded areas of my rock, but is very slow to grow or bleaches in the higher areas and areas with direct light. Makes me think the light is stronger than I think, but the settings are only at 50% blue, 15% white, 12" above the waterline.

Also having a real hard time with GHA. Tank is 6 months old. Thoughts on the settings?

A 40B is a very shallow tank for the 300W unit. Running a par meter on a buddy's 180g system with three of the 165W units, they are pretty directional (not much light more than a few inches outside of the lights footprint), and make a ton of light towards even the lower end of the percentage output.

Watts aren't the best unit, but for context I'm running 180W worth of Kessil lighting over a 65G. Same footprint as your tank, much taller. 100% output on the kessils has bleached a couple of acropora lately.

I wouldn't suggest that you run more than 30% on your blue channel, 20% on your white channel, until your tank gets cooking, nutrients stabilize, and everything adjusts to the light.

This should still put you around 80W of light. Over such a shallow tank, assuming Watts are even the most rudimentary guideline, I think this should be adequate that you're not starving your corals of light, so long as you place them well...

I think the amount of time you run your lights, white lights in particular, is the best means to control algae growth. Many nuisance algaes take a long time to start really using light. I've seen estimates that GHA, Dinos, Cyano, etc. Don't fully photosynthesize until lights have been on 2-4 hours. Corals start photosynthesizing almost immediately by comparison.

I run a 6 hour light schedule, and anecdotally I never see any algae in the DT with 0.1ppm phosphate and 10ppm Nitrate.
 

reef_ninja

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Hi , GHA is probably caused by neutrients being to high. I'm going to take a guess and say you used dry rock when starting the tank. If so then it could be phosphates leaching from the rock work what are your nitrates and phosphates?

For the coraline algae, it has to compete with the gha for what it needs to grow. Get your tank in balance and it will start growing again. Don't mess with the lighting settings if things have been doing well. If you have only recently worked up to the levels your running go back down to where things were good. But do so slowly.

Nope, I ordered live rock from KPaquatics.

I have some frags in there, Zoas, an Acan, and some birdsnest, and all are doing great. Recently the zoas and birdsnest are starting to really take off. But I suppose the lighting question is answered, don't wanna steer this thread away.
 

reef_ninja

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A 40B is a very shallow tank for the 300W unit. Running a par meter on a buddy's 180g system with three of the 165W units, they are pretty directional (not much light more than a few inches outside of the lights footprint), and make a ton of light towards even the lower end of the percentage output.

Watts aren't the best unit, but for context I'm running 180W worth of Kessil lighting over a 65G. Same footprint as your tank, much taller. 100% output on the kessils has bleached a couple of acropora lately.

I wouldn't suggest that you run more than 30% on your blue channel, 20% on your white channel, until your tank gets cooking, nutrients stabilize, and everything adjusts to the light.

This should still put you around 80W of light. Over such a shallow tank, assuming Watts are even the most rudimentary guideline, I think this should be adequate that you're not starving your corals of light, so long as you place them well...

I think the amount of time you run your lights, white lights in particular, is the best means to control algae growth. Many nuisance algaes take a long time to start really using light. I've seen estimates that GHA, Dinos, Cyano, etc. Don't fully photosynthesize until lights have been on 2-4 hours. Corals start photosynthesizing almost immediately by comparison.

I run a 6 hour light schedule, and anecdotally I never see any algae in the DT with 0.1ppm phosphate and 10ppm Nitrate.

I only run the blues for 8 hours right now, and the whites 7 hours (30 mins after blues come on, 30 mins before blues go off). I know the whites more or less fuel the algae growth, so I'm trying to run those lower. I just dont like how blue it looks when the white channel is off.
 
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Nicholas Dushynsky

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I only run the blues for 8 hours right now, and the whites 7 hours (30 mins after blues come on, 30 mins before blues go off). I know the whites more or less fuel the algae growth, so I'm trying to run those lower. I just dont like how blue it looks when the white channel is off.
Run the whites lower then. Alot of people run these lights high blue even upto 100% and run whites 1%. I am running mine still with lenses removed at 65 blue (14.30-23.00)
12 white (17.00-21.00) I do have high phosphates now though.
Most recent shot
Screenshot_20201030-221044_Gallery.jpg
 

reef_ninja

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Steer it where you like were all here to learn. It may help other people with the same light/size tank having similar issues.

I took them down to 40/10. Seems odd to run them so low, but they are strong lights. I’ll try to remember to update in a few weeks, see where things are at. I’m also trying to beef up my refugium too to combat the GHA. Thanks for the input guys
 

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