Water change during copper treatment

[jmichaelh7]

If my current tank is 2ppm and I’m doing 5 gallon water change. Does the new 5 gallon water need to be at 2ppm?

 

[TastesLikeChicken]

Yes. What type of copper are you using?

 

[jmichaelh7]

Copper power

 

[jmichaelh7]

Yes. What type of copper are you using?

It needs to be same ppm?

 

[TastesLikeChicken]

Copper Power is 1.5 ml per gallon. So if you take out 5 gallons, you will add 7.5 ml of copper power to the new water. Let it circulate a bit and then check with a Hanna tester and you can fine tune it. Note: 1.5 ml is for a copper level of 2.5.

 

[TastesLikeChicken]

I would recommend you add the new copper power to the new water before you add the new water to the display tank. That way the display tank will always remain at therapeutic levels.

 

[TastesLikeChicken]

It needs to be same ppm?

Yes

 

[Reefahholic]

Yes, therapeutic copper power is best on the higher end IMO at 2.5ppm.

Add it to the new tank, BEFORE the fish go in.

See below:

https://fishotel.com/quarantine-help/


From HumbleFish’s forum:

WARNING: The below recommendations are only applicable to chelated copper (e.g. Copper Power, Coppersafe). They DO NOT APPLY to Cupramine or any other forms of copper.



Forward: After consulting with a public aquarium and our very own @Dierks, below are new recommendations for using chelated copper (e.g. Copper Power, Coppersafe) in two different scenarios. MANY THANKS to @Dierks for doing extensive experimentation in order to confirm the following:



Scenario 1 - Fish being quarantined in a newly setup QT



In this situation, the quarantine tank should be free of pathogens. So, no leftover Ich or Velvet tomonts to worry about from a previous batch of fish.



Recommendation: Take 48 hours to slowly/gradually raise the copper level to 2.0 ppm. After that:

• With Coppersafe, maintain 2.0 ppm for 30 days OR 14 days and then transfer to a new/sterile tank for observation.
• With Copper Power, take a few days to further raise the Cu level to 2.5 ppm. Treat at this concentration for 30 days OR 14 days and then transfer to a new/sterile tank for observation.

Scenario 2 -

1. Fish being placed in a QT that has been used repeatedly, without being sterilized in-between batches of fish
2. Fish with Ich or Velvet
3. Asymptomatic fish coming from a known diseased environment

In this situation, we must assume the QT already contains latent Ich or Velvet tomonts. Or the risk of reinfection is high by not raising the copper level quickly enough.



Recommendation: If applicable, run carbon for 24 hours to remove any residuals from non-copper medications you have previously dosed. Then remove carbon and preset the QT to 2.0 ppm chelated copper. The treatment period (30 or 14 days) is the same as outlined above, including the need to raise Copper Power to 2.5 ppm before the clock begins.



The previous recommendation was to begin treatment at 1.0 ppm.



However, starting out at 2.0 ppm has been deemed relatively safe via experimentation with multiple different species of fish. Or let's put it another way... The risk of being infected (or reinfected) with Ich or Velvet outweighs any risk from releasing a fish straight into 2.0 copper.





Note: It is highly recommended to use the Hanna High Range Copper Colorimeter (HI702) to test your copper level: High Range Copper Colorimeter – Checker® HC HI702

 

[jmichaelh7]

Copper Power is 1.5 ml per gallon. So if you take out 5 gallons, you will add 7.5 ml of copper power to the new water. Let it circulate a bit and then check with a Hanna tester and you can fine tune it. Note: 1.5 ml is for a copper level of 2.5.

Where did you get the information from? 1.5ml per gallon?

Yes, therapeutic copper power is best on the higher end IMO at 2.5ppm.

Add it to the new tank, BEFORE the fish go in.

See below:

https://fishotel.com/quarantine-help/


From HumbleFish’s forum:

WARNING: The below recommendations are only applicable to chelated copper (e.g. Copper Power, Coppersafe). They DO NOT APPLY to Cupramine or any other forms of copper.



Forward: After consulting with a public aquarium and our very own @Dierks, below are new recommendations for using chelated copper (e.g. Copper Power, Coppersafe) in two different scenarios. MANY THANKS to @Dierks for doing extensive experimentation in order to confirm the following:



Scenario 1 - Fish being quarantined in a newly setup QT



In this situation, the quarantine tank should be free of pathogens. So, no leftover Ich or Velvet tomonts to worry about from a previous batch of fish.



Recommendation: Take 48 hours to slowly/gradually raise the copper level to 2.0 ppm. After that:

• With Coppersafe, maintain 2.0 ppm for 30 days OR 14 days and then transfer to a new/sterile tank for observation.
• With Copper Power, take a few days to further raise the Cu level to 2.5 ppm. Treat at this concentration for 30 days OR 14 days and then transfer to a new/sterile tank for observation.

Scenario 2 -

1. Fish being placed in a QT that has been used repeatedly, without being sterilized in-between batches of fish
2. Fish with Ich or Velvet
3. Asymptomatic fish coming from a known diseased environment

In this situation, we must assume the QT already contains latent Ich or Velvet tomonts. Or the risk of reinfection is high by not raising the copper level quickly enough.



Recommendation: If applicable, run carbon for 24 hours to remove any residuals from non-copper medications you have previously dosed. Then remove carbon and preset the QT to 2.0 ppm chelated copper. The treatment period (30 or 14 days) is the same as outlined above, including the need to raise Copper Power to 2.5 ppm before the clock begins.



The previous recommendation was to begin treatment at 1.0 ppm.



However, starting out at 2.0 ppm has been deemed relatively safe via experimentation with multiple different species of fish. Or let's put it another way... The risk of being infected (or reinfected) with Ich or Velvet outweighs any risk from releasing a fish straight into 2.0 copper.





Note: It is highly recommended to use the Hanna High Range Copper Colorimeter (HI702) to test your copper level: High Range Copper Colorimeter – Checker® HC HI702

if I’m at 1.5 I pull 5 gallons out and replace with 2.5ppm . Retest after in the qt then raise to 2.5ppm from where it is now right ?
Then here on out it should always be 2.5

 

[TastesLikeChicken]

If you use the instructions they give you on the back of the bottle and do the math to where you break if down to the amount of copper per gallon it will come out to 1.5 mL per gallon for a copper level of 2.5

Yes, you can do it the way you have mentioned and it should be fine. If you just have a clown in there they are very hardy and copper power is well tolerated even at full dose of 2.5.

 

[jmichaelh7]

If you use the instructions they give you on the back of the bottle and do the math to where you break if down to the amount of copper per gallon it will come out to 1.5 mL per gallon for a copper level of 2.5

Yes, you can do it the way you have mentioned and it should be fine. If you just have a clown in there they are very hardy and copper power is well tolerated even at full dose of 2.5.

I have 13 fish of all kinda Wrasse, angel … my entire livestock pretty much. I just want to make sure I never drop below 2ppm and start the 30 day over you know what I mean ?

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

Hello! Please help me out. I’m new to saltwater and have NEVER used copper as a treatment in FW. I read a reply that for 5 gallon water change you’d add back 1.5ml per gallon so 7.5 ml for a copper reading of 2.5ppm. I’m confused, if the water you’re removing is at 2.5ppm. Wouldn’t adding another 2.5 ppm to new water I.e., 7.5ml increase copper concentrations in the QT aquarium? It’s not like salinity is it? Where you match the SG you’re removing and it’s a balance out? I sound dumb I know but i really need some help here as I’m getting ready to treat a poor clown with ick.

I’m going to let my DT fallow. I also read that the copper will kill beneficial bacteria? I’m going to remove a bag of ceramic filter media from the DT and add it to the new HOB in the QT. Will this kill it? Is it pointless to add it?

Amguard will be my best friend moving forward for the next few week I guess! My fish will stay in this QT for 3 months as the DT fallows.

I need to make sure that the biological filtration isn’t disrupted, I will add live sand after copper (100% water change and adding seachem cuprisorb ) after the treatment and set the tank up a little nicer for them for the next 3 months.

Please, advise! I need it friends!

 

[JayM]

The copper is like salinity. If you pull out 10 gallons of 1.026 saltwater, then add 10 gallons of new 1.026 saltwater - you still have only 1.026 in your display.

Copper won’t kill off all the beneficial bacteria. Just make sure that you don’t move anything from the DT for use in the QT if you can’t live without it. Best practice is to not put anything exposed to copper back in the DT.

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

The copper is like salinity. If you pull out 10 gallons of 1.026 saltwater, then add 10 gallons of new 1.026 saltwater - you still have only 1.026 in your display.

Copper won’t kill off all the beneficial bacteria. Just make sure that you don’t move anything from the DT for use in the QT if you can’t live without it. Best practice is to not put anything exposed to copper back in the DT.

Perfect, I already added matrix to the DT a few days ago before I knew this would happen as a safety measure. So I have ceramics and matrix. I’m going to remove the ceramics and I will not reuse. However, can I continue using it in the QT after changing 100% of the water and adding cuprisorb? And if the copper goes to 0 ppm it would still be fine to use the ceramics moving forward? Thank you again!

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

The copper is like salinity. If you pull out 10 gallons of 1.026 saltwater, then add 10 gallons of new 1.026 saltwater - you still have only 1.026 in your display.

Copper won’t kill off all the beneficial bacteria. Just make sure that you don’t move anything from the DT for use in the QT if you can’t live without it. Best practice is to not put anything exposed to copper back in the DT.

Thank you for the explanation you’re a lifesaver my friend! Thank you truly!

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

The copper is like salinity. If you pull out 10 gallons of 1.026 saltwater, then add 10 gallons of new 1.026 saltwater - you still have only 1.026 in your display.

Copper won’t kill off all the beneficial bacteria. Just make sure that you don’t move anything from the DT for use in the QT if you can’t live without it. Best practice is to not put anything exposed to copper back in the DT.

Sadly I can’t get the copper power into Canada! They seized it today! So, no fallow for me insane they do this

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hello! Please help me out. I’m new to saltwater and have NEVER used copper as a treatment in FW. I read a reply that for 5 gallon water change you’d add back 1.5ml per gallon so 7.5 ml for a copper reading of 2.5ppm. I’m confused, if the water you’re removing is at 2.5ppm. Wouldn’t adding another 2.5 ppm to new water I.e., 7.5ml increase copper concentrations in the QT aquarium? It’s not like salinity is it? Where you match the SG you’re removing and it’s a balance out? I sound dumb I know but i really need some help here as I’m getting ready to treat a poor clown with ick.

I’m going to let my DT fallow. I also read that the copper will kill beneficial bacteria? I’m going to remove a bag of ceramic filter media from the DT and add it to the new HOB in the QT. Will this kill it? Is it pointless to add it?

Amguard will be my best friend moving forward for the next few week I guess! My fish will stay in this QT for 3 months as the DT fallows.

I need to make sure that the biological filtration isn’t disrupted, I will add live sand after copper (100% water change and adding seachem cuprisorb ) after the treatment and set the tank up a little nicer for them for the next 3 months.

Please, advise! I need it friends!

Im not concerned about salinity. Its more important to match the copper level. If your copper as an example os 2.3, remix new water with copper level at 2.3. Salinity can be +/- 1