Water chemistry question.

[Brian Lijewski]

Ok suggestions on a ro

 

[Brian Lijewski]

I will be using store bought water for make up and changes. I working out a way to remove 5 to 10 gallons of water per day either dose with muratic acid and return to the tank when levels are safe. Any input would be appreciated. Thank you for all your help

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I will be using store bought water for make up and changes. I working out a way to remove 5 to 10 gallons of water per day either dose with muratic acid and return to the tank when levels are safe. Any input would be appreciated. Thank you for all your help

That's a fine plan. Take some out, add an acid, aerate well to bring the pH back up, then add it back. You can drop the alk of the old water to only 1-2 dKH if you want, but I would not go to zero or less as the pH will stay very low even with aeration.

 

[loknar28]

I have had my 240 Wide up for roughly 10 years now. I am on the towns treated water supply however it's source is alkaline. I would really avoid introducing additives at all if I were you. Like all things reef, whatever is causing your problem needs to be compensated for in a stable and sustainable way. Just do regular water changes. I do a large one about once a month and in my experience your best bet for the long run is a RODI system. AirWaterIce makes a great one for the price and they do stand behind it. I also agree with the earlier post that your best bet is to find sea salt which has low alkalinity. I use Instant Ocean which is just basic salt and while I have a mix of livestock, I have many LPS and SPS colonies. Remember that even though your tank is an artificially enclosed space it still relies on the same biological processes to bring balance to the system.
My formula has been to automate as much as possible and let nature do the rest.