Water Chemistry Question

MarkS · Feb 11, 2019

Hi, I posted this in the Water Chemistry section, but few replies. Expert help would be appreciated, I want my tank, corals to do,well. TY

My Tank is a Red Sea Reefer 350. I have had my tank cycling for the past 6 months and added fish about 2 months ago and some small basic frags about 4 - 6 weeks ago. Using RO water.

I think (well I know) I overdosed my main minerals trying to ramp up too quickly. I wanted to get good growth on my frags.

Listed below are my parameters, can an Expert or S4asoned Reefer offer the best next steps please.

1: Ammonia, Nitrate and Nitrites are all stable at 0.0. Using API Mater & Salter water test kits.

2: Phosphates are now under control after a spike and stabilised for the past 3 weeks.

3: PH has been stable at about 8.0 for the past 4 - 6 weeks. Thinking of getting proper PH 8.2?

Below tests are using Red Sea Pro test kits.

4: Calcium has been at 500+ for the past 6 weeks.

5: Magnesium has consistently testing at 1,600 (I did read in a post here that Red Sea Pro Kits always show this)?

6: KH has been testing at 14.0 for the past 6 weeks.

7: Salinity is between 2.3 - 2.6 trying to get a better constant base at 2.5 but the weather is so dang hot I am getting quite a bit of evaporation and topping up regularly. Is 2.5bor 2.6 best, looking at mixed coral.

I have been doing fortnightly 15 - 20% water changes, last change yesterday, last testing today.

Advice on the best steps next to take will be most welcome

Also what system do you recommend to track, manage your parameters, using pen and paper at present?

James M · Feb 11, 2019

You definitely need a ATO those are huge salinity swings and isn’t going to be good for anything.

Hybrid Ken · Feb 11, 2019

The best thing I can think is to first not chase any numbers.....just stabilize first. I see way to many people chase a number like pH and toss things into a tank to get it not knowing that it will also change other things or what else may be affected. I agree on getting an ATO going and stabilize the salinity asap. once you solve that problem some of the others may solve themselves or become easier to manage. Be sure all adjustment/changes are gradual. Getting stable first is the most important thing in my book. Need a good foundation to build on.

DSC reef · Feb 11, 2019

I agree with the above. Also, you got some good advice on the other thread as well.

Ron Reefman · Feb 11, 2019

MarkS said:
My Tank is a Red Sea Reefer 350. I have had my tank cycling for the past 6 months and added fish about 2 months ago and some small basic frags about 4 - 6 weeks ago. Using RO water.

I think (well I know) I overdosed my main minerals trying to ramp up too quickly. I wanted to get good growth on my frags.
What do you mean by 'minerals' that you dosed? BTW, most additives to make corals grow better or faster are snake oil and useless IMHO. I don't add anything but food, Ca, alk occasionally Mg and rarely iron (helps my macroalgae grow).

Listed below are my parameters, can an Expert or Seasoned Reefer offer the best next steps please.

1: Ammonia, Nitrate and Nitrites are all stable at 0.0. Using API Mater & Salter water test kits.

2: Phosphates are now under control after a spike and stabilized for the past 3 weeks.

3: PH has been stable at about 8.0 for the past 4 - 6 weeks. Thinking of getting proper PH 8.2?
Please do not try to chase pH!!! The pH in the tank is determined by the CO2 in the water. The water either gets or gives up CO2 to the air in your house. Adding anything to raise the pH is very, very temporary (as in minutes or hours).

Below tests are using Red Sea Pro test kits.

4: Calcium has been at 500+ for the past 6 weeks.
Kind of high but OK. I keep mine between 400 and 425.

5: Magnesium has consistently testing at 1,600 (I did read in a post here that Red Sea Pro Kits always show this)?
Kind of high but high Mg isn't an issue.

6: KH has been testing at 14.0 for the past 6 weeks.
Is this 14.0 dKH? If so, it's too high but not serious. Let it come down to the 7-9 range.

7: Salinity is between 2.3 - 2.6 trying to get a better constant base at 2.5 but the weather is so dang hot I am getting quite a bit of evaporation and topping up regularly. Is 2.5bor 2.6 best, looking at mixed coral.
I don't even know what measurement this is? Are you just giving us the last digits of a Specific Gravity reading: 1.023 to 1.026? If that is what you are telling us, then that's OK. Otherwise, what is the unit of measurement you are using?

I have been doing fortnightly 15 - 20% water changes, last change yesterday, last testing today.

Advice on the best steps next to take will be most welcome

Also what system do you recommend to track, manage your parameters, using pen and paper at present?

Do you have a skimmer? Are you using any mechanical filtration like floss or filter socks? In fact, do you have a sump or refugium? None of these are required, but in time, they could help.

Please don't try to rush your coral, it won't work. It's like trying to make your child get bigger faster than normal... it doesn't end well. That's why the old saying exists:
NOTHING GOOD HAPPENS QUICKLY IN A REEF TANK!

Retro Reefer · Feb 11, 2019

My advice would be to first stop doing so many water changes, 15-20% nightly is way overboard and your tank will never stabilize.. 10% weekly or every few weeks is sufficient.

Forget about PH no need to monitor or adjust.

Get a grip on your salinity.. buy a good refractometer and calibration solution then get your tank to 1.026 specific gravity or 35 ppt. Until you adjust your salinity there is no use tracking calcium, magnesium or alkalinity as they will very depending on amount of salt in your water.

Once you set your salinity shoot for around 400-450 cal, 1300-1350 Mg and 8-9 dkh.. all your numbers are to high on these and I would guess it’s because of incorrect salinity and the frequency of your water changes.

nothing good happens quickly in this hobby, let your tank stabilize and then gently nudge it in the direction you want it to go.. a ATO will keep your salinity stable and you can dose 2 part or drip Kalkwasser to keep calcium, Mg and Alk in line