Wee Mad Arthur’s 24G Upgrade

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Wee Mad Arthur

Wee Mad Arthur

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Replaced the Jebao crossflow with an AI Nero 5. Just couldn’t get a flow pattern that I / corals were happy with using the Jebao on this tank. Only put the Nero in the tank this morning so not done much fiddling but I’m already happier with the flow.

3965DDEC-8E79-4841-920A-8E445E402EE1.jpeg
 
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Added a guard to the Nero as I’ve seen a few reports of fish being sucked in and i still intend to add fish. Also swapped the Fluval output to a spray bar as the stock output kept forcing itself into a position where it pointed upwards no matter what I did. I know people are fussy about equipment in the tank but I‘m not using a sump and it doesn’t really bother me. I did have the flow coming from one end of the tank but it wasn’t working out so I swapped it to the back which is much better.

Just got the jump guard to sort now and then think about fish. Won’t be able to get fish any time soon anyway as no one is shipping right now.

E3E23A52-EC55-45AA-A49E-37F2C9CA9092.jpeg

F099BA74-A54F-46B0-8C44-BCE95530DFF5.jpeg
 
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Put the D-D jump guard together. Took 2 of us to do the netting, very fiddly! I bought a whole bunch of the cutouts but when it came to it it just wasn’t feasible due to how much I have on the back so I made the decision to just make it a rectangle. There’s only really back right that a fish could jump from so I’ll have to give that some thought, everywhere else there is equipment in the way.

3312B14F-EB93-4FD6-84E8-2F2946FEC153.jpeg
 
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Now running Von Erik Veloso’s Pirates of the Caribbean Lighting profile that he remade for the Prime 16HD
Nero 5 is running random mode 30% to 50%
 

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Put the D-D jump guard together. Took 2 of us to do the netting, very fiddly! I bought a whole bunch of the cutouts but when it came to it it just wasn’t feasible due to how much I have on the back so I made the decision to just make it a rectangle. There’s only really back right that a fish could jump from so I’ll have to give that some thought, everywhere else there is equipment in the way.

3312B14F-EB93-4FD6-84E8-2F2946FEC153.jpeg
Dude this is looking awsome, I bought this exact same tank and have been considering different lighting options. Keen to watch you progress, best of luck
 
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Dude this is looking awsome, I bought this exact same tank and have been considering different lighting options. Keen to watch you progress, best of luck

I’ve replied in your lighting thread :)
Be sure to start your own build thread, it‘s a good way to keep track of what you’ve done and you can look back at your own progression. If you don’t mind some advice having looked at your other threads, budget friendly isn’t always budget friendly long term. I’ve bought various ”budget friendly” equipment only to end up replacing it later on for various reasons. Try and resist the urge to buy equipment before you’re completely sure it’s what you want. I know you’re dying to get stuck in but researching equipment can save you money in the long run.
 

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I’ve replied in your lighting thread :)
Be sure to start your own build thread, it‘s a good way to keep track of what you’ve done and you can look back at your own progression. If you don’t mind some advice having looked at your other threads, budget friendly isn’t always budget friendly long term. I’ve bought various ”budget friendly” equipment only to end up replacing it later on for various reasons. Try and resist the urge to buy equipment before you’re completely sure it’s what you want. I know you’re dying to get stuck in but researching equipment can save you money in the long run.

Cheer's man, I just saw. Yeh, when I say budget I mean that I don't want to spend more than I need to to try this out as I haven't done it before, but equally don't want to not spend enough to have the chance of decent results and then give up because I skimped out on a few hundred quid.

I've done a fair bit of research so far, watched the BRS 52 weeks and 5 minute guide to reefing, and following people on yourtube such as inappropriate reefer and reefdork who have some great ideas. Not planning to set up the tank for a few months yet (probs June time) so hopefully should have settled on a setup by then. Currently only the tank is purchased.

Gear I have am considering so far (open to further suggestions);
Lighting - AI Prime/RedSea Reef LED/Evergrow TI 5020V2, T5 hybrid setup (Based on the advice of yourself and others, I think it's worth spending a bit of extra money here rather than upgrading later date).
Filtration - HOB, Seachem Tidal 55 (quiet internal self priming pump with surface skimmer and should be easy to clean)
Protein skimmer - Hoping to not need one as going for mainly corals and small bio load, if one is needed then bubble magus QQ1 HOB is planned.
Heater - I have heard good things about Eheim
Rock and Sand - Most likely Marco rock with redsea sand
ATO - Tunze Osmolator Nano or D-D H2Ocean

I'll def be do a build and progression thread on here and ultimate reef when I start,
 
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Cheer's man, I just saw. Yeh, when I say budget I mean that I don't want to spend more than I need to to try this out as I haven't done it before, but equally don't want to not spend enough to have the chance of decent results and then give up because I skimped out on a few hundred quid.

I've done a fair bit of research so far, watched the BRS 52 weeks and 5 minute guide to reefing, and following people on yourtube such as inappropriate reefer and reefdork who have some great ideas. Not planning to set up the tank for a few months yet (probs June time) so hopefully should have settled on a setup by then. Currently only the tank is purchased.

Gear I have am considering so far (open to further suggestions);
Lighting - AI Prime/RedSea Reef LED/Evergrow TI 5020V2, T5 hybrid setup (Based on the advice of yourself and others, I think it's worth spending a bit of extra money here rather than upgrading later date).
Filtration - HOB, Seachem Tidal 55 (quiet internal self priming pump with surface skimmer and should be easy to clean)
Protein skimmer - Hoping to not need one as going for mainly corals and small bio load, if one is needed then bubble magus QQ1 HOB is planned.
Heater - I have heard good things about Eheim
Rock and Sand - Most likely Marco rock with redsea sand
ATO - Tunze Osmolator Nano or D-D H2Ocean

I'll def be do a build and progression thread on here and ultimate reef when I start,

I almost bought a RedSea Reef LED 50 but there’s a fair few stories out their of them no connecting, not turning on, power supply over heating. I decided to go with the Prime instead. When looking at equipment it’s always worth google to see what issues they have.

Personally I think a canister gives more filtration options than a HOB due to the available space inside. These modern Fluval canisters are a doddle to clean. If you haven’t already then watch a few videos of their new 07 range. People don’t like canisters because of cleaning them, especially the sponges but it takes me a few minutes max each water change just to wash them out in the old tank water. Given the size of a canister they’re quite versatile when it comes to different media options.

I don’t run a skimmer, I used to on my old smaller tank but it rarely skimmed anything out. From what I understand on nano tanks, a weekly water change is probably going to do more than a skimmer would. I see people saying to use them for gas exchange / oxygenation but if you’ve got a pump or some outlet pointed at the waters surface and are open top then that’s happening anyway.

I don’t think there is a best heater, you google a heater and you’ll find someone somewhere had issues with it. Having said that I’ve had multiple issues with digital heaters and old style glass ones. I use a titanium one these days (alongside a controller).

I’m not familiar with all the different artificial rock types now, I was lucky enough to to buy some old fashioned real rock from my LFS. Bare in mind with sand that you’re supposed to clean it on a regular basis which can be hard depending on what you do with your rock work. This is my first bare bottom tank and I’m really pleased I decided to try it.

I can recommend the autoaqua smart ato if you’ve not looked at it already. Be aware that without a sump you may need to protect the sensor (On ato’s with a digital one) from waves or micro bubbles.

Don‘t forget other things you’ll need like salt, some sort of salinity tester, test kits, buckets, algae scraper, net and most importantly a turkey baster. Oh and rodi water. Do you make your own or buy it? Those who normally buy it are probably wishing they made it now with everywhere shut.
 

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I almost bought a RedSea Reef LED 50 but there’s a fair few stories out their of them no connecting, not turning on, power supply over heating. I decided to go with the Prime instead. When looking at equipment it’s always worth google to see what issues they have.

Personally I think a canister gives more filtration options than a HOB due to the available space inside. These modern Fluval canisters are a doddle to clean. If you haven’t already then watch a few videos of their new 07 range. People don’t like canisters because of cleaning them, especially the sponges but it takes me a few minutes max each water change just to wash them out in the old tank water. Given the size of a canister they’re quite versatile when it comes to different media options.

I don’t run a skimmer, I used to on my old smaller tank but it rarely skimmed anything out. From what I understand on nano tanks, a weekly water change is probably going to do more than a skimmer would. I see people saying to use them for gas exchange / oxygenation but if you’ve got a pump or some outlet pointed at the waters surface and are open top then that’s happening anyway.

I don’t think there is a best heater, you google a heater and you’ll find someone somewhere had issues with it. Having said that I’ve had multiple issues with digital heaters and old style glass ones. I use a titanium one these days (alongside a controller).

I’m not familiar with all the different artificial rock types now, I was lucky enough to to buy some old fashioned real rock from my LFS. Bare in mind with sand that you’re supposed to clean it on a regular basis which can be hard depending on what you do with your rock work. This is my first bare bottom tank and I’m really pleased I decided to try it.

I can recommend the autoaqua smart ato if you’ve not looked at it already. Be aware that without a sump you may need to protect the sensor (On ato’s with a digital one) from waves or micro bubbles.

Don‘t forget other things you’ll need like salt, some sort of salinity tester, test kits, buckets, algae scraper, net and most importantly a turkey baster. Oh and rodi water. Do you make your own or buy it? Those who normally buy it are probably wishing they made it now with everywhere shut.

I had thought about a canister originally but was put off because of lots of reports saying that without perfect maintenance that they can cause big issues. I am quite happy to do the weekly maintenance, but I do travel for work on a bi monthly basis for 2 to 3 weeks so ideally need a set up that will run itself as much as possible during that time. Do you think that a canister would be OK without a clean for that period? I know this isn't ideal length of time for any setup, but I feel like a HOB which self primes etc is easier to explain to someone how to clean than a canister with less chance of something going wrong.

With your canister what media do you have? I am guessing Carbon, GFO and some kind of bio block for extra bio filter? Also how do you skim the surface with it?

How do you protect your ATO sensor? I hadn't considered waves etc, thanks for that.

And yeh all the side bits, I'll be making the RO water from the start, getting in from an LFS just seems to much of a pain so getting a system from the beginning seems cheaper in the long run.
 

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I almost bought a RedSea Reef LED 50 but there’s a fair few stories out their of them no connecting, not turning on, power supply over heating. I decided to go with the Prime instead. When looking at equipment it’s always worth google to see what issues they have.

Personally I think a canister gives more filtration options than a HOB due to the available space inside. These modern Fluval canisters are a doddle to clean. If you haven’t already then watch a few videos of their new 07 range. People don’t like canisters because of cleaning them, especially the sponges but it takes me a few minutes max each water change just to wash them out in the old tank water. Given the size of a canister they’re quite versatile when it comes to different media options.

I don’t run a skimmer, I used to on my old smaller tank but it rarely skimmed anything out. From what I understand on nano tanks, a weekly water change is probably going to do more than a skimmer would. I see people saying to use them for gas exchange / oxygenation but if you’ve got a pump or some outlet pointed at the waters surface and are open top then that’s happening anyway.

I don’t think there is a best heater, you google a heater and you’ll find someone somewhere had issues with it. Having said that I’ve had multiple issues with digital heaters and old style glass ones. I use a titanium one these days (alongside a controller).

I’m not familiar with all the different artificial rock types now, I was lucky enough to to buy some old fashioned real rock from my LFS. Bare in mind with sand that you’re supposed to clean it on a regular basis which can be hard depending on what you do with your rock work. This is my first bare bottom tank and I’m really pleased I decided to try it.

I can recommend the autoaqua smart ato if you’ve not looked at it already. Be aware that without a sump you may need to protect the sensor (On ato’s with a digital one) from waves or micro bubbles.

Don‘t forget other things you’ll need like salt, some sort of salinity tester, test kits, buckets, algae scraper, net and most importantly a turkey baster. Oh and rodi water. Do you make your own or buy it? Those who normally buy it are probably wishing they made it now with everywhere shut.
If you're skimmer isn't pulling anything, then its either too big, you haven't run it long enough for the "break-in" period, or don't you have it at the correct water level.
I'm using the Eshopps Protein Nano 10-35G Skimmer for my 29 and the cup is 2/3 full every 3 days or so.

I run around 80x water flow, a HOB filter, bag of carbon/zeolite, ESV 2-part dose, and I haven't done a water change in 3 months.

After using a canister for years, I know now they are a nitrate factory. Even if you clean it every week, you still have detritus sitting in the bottom for 7 days. That's by design. If you compare the volume of work that it is to disconnect, clean, add new water, clear the air/bubbles with the simple removal of the dirty media of a HOB that I can visually check on it anytime I want, it was easy to get basically 0 nutrients.
 
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If you're skimmer isn't pulling anything, then its either too big, you haven't run it long enough for the "break-in" period, or don't you have it at the correct water level.
I'm using the Eshopps Protein Nano 10-35G Skimmer for my 29 and the cup is 2/3 full every 3 days or so.

I run around 80x water flow, a HOB filter, bag of carbon/zeolite, ESV 2-part dose, and I haven't done a water change in 3 months.

After using a canister for years, I know now they are a nitrate factory. Even if you clean it every week, you still have detritus sitting in the bottom for 7 days. That's by design. If you compare the volume of work that it is to disconnect, clean, add new water, clear the air/bubbles with the simple removal of the dirty media of a HOB that I can visually check on it anytime I want, it was easy to get basically 0 nutrients.

A skimmer cannot remove anything if there’s nothing to remove. My old tank was coral only and currently so is my upgrade so there wasn’t any fish food or fish waste. The skimmer was the one for that specific tank, it sat at fixed height and I ran it for over 6 months before deciding it wasn’t worth bothering with. A skimmer isn’t a necessity, numerous people run without one. It’s quite common on nano tanks not to use one.

I don’t see how detritus sitting in a canister for 7 days is any different to it sitting in the display for 7 days. I siphon any crap out of the display I can see and empty the canister. With my filter I turn it off, lift the flow lever to off and then lift the leaver that disconnects the intake and output. 2 handles release the head unit, the impeller is held in by one clip. The media are in trays with central handles so that it all lifts out in one go. It takes no time at all to clean.

There is no single way to run an aquarium of any kind. There’s a multitude of equipment options, media options, maintenance routines etc. Each of us finds what works for us.
 
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I had thought about a canister originally but was put off because of lots of reports saying that without perfect maintenance that they can cause big issues. I am quite happy to do the weekly maintenance, but I do travel for work on a bi monthly basis for 2 to 3 weeks so ideally need a set up that will run itself as much as possible during that time. Do you think that a canister would be OK without a clean for that period? I know this isn't ideal length of time for any setup, but I feel like a HOB which self primes etc is easier to explain to someone how to clean than a canister with less chance of something going wrong.

With your canister what media do you have? I am guessing Carbon, GFO and some kind of bio block for extra bio filter? Also how do you skim the surface with it?

How do you protect your ATO sensor? I hadn't considered waves etc, thanks for that.

And yeh all the side bits, I'll be making the RO water from the start, getting in from an LFS just seems to much of a pain so getting a system from the beginning seems cheaper in the long run.

I guess it depends on the person you’re trusting to take care of your tank. How long it could go without cleaning would depend on bioload. I haven’t used a HOB filter, just various canisters over the years on different tanks. Probably makes me biased but they‘ve always worked for me. I‘m running the 307 stock. There’s numerous different types of sponge, ceramics and carbon. You’d have to watch a video, there’s a few on YouTube. My waters nice and clear and coupled with the extra spray bar I’ve got plenty of surface agitation. I’m not currently finding any need to surface skim but I know that Fluval do have an add on surface skimmer.

I thought someone would make something to buy to protect the ATO sensor, it is a common problem but I couldn’t find anything. I ended up taking inspiration from a float based topup I had years ago. I used a sample pot, put some holes in the bottom and siliconed a hose clip on the side that came with a siphon to make sure it stayed put. The sensor sits inside this contraption and is held in place by a stronger magnet on the outside of the tank from a jebao sw2 wavemaker. Not the most visually appealing and I may update it if I find a better option but it does the job.

23967D47-8AF3-4D46-B50D-69F52E29F34D.jpeg


Have you bought an Rodi unit yet? Happy to recommend one.
 

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I guess it depends on the person you’re trusting to take care of your tank. How long it could go without cleaning would depend on bioload. I haven’t used a HOB filter, just various canisters over the years on different tanks. Probably makes me biased but they‘ve always worked for me. I‘m running the 307 stock. There’s numerous different types of sponge, ceramics and carbon. You’d have to watch a video, there’s a few on YouTube. My waters nice and clear and coupled with the extra spray bar I’ve got plenty of surface agitation. I’m not currently finding any need to surface skim but I know that Fluval do have an add on surface skimmer.

I thought someone would make something to buy to protect the ATO sensor, it is a common problem but I couldn’t find anything. I ended up taking inspiration from a float based topup I had years ago. I used a sample pot, put some holes in the bottom and siliconed a hose clip on the side that came with a siphon to make sure it stayed put. The sensor sits inside this contraption and is held in place by a stronger magnet on the outside of the tank from a jebao sw2 wavemaker. Not the most visually appealing and I may update it if I find a better option but it does the job.

23967D47-8AF3-4D46-B50D-69F52E29F34D.jpeg


Have you bought an Rodi unit yet? Happy to recommend one.

Oh right, thats a good solution for the ATO, hmmm will have to think about that.

Not bought anything but the tank yet. What RODI would you recomment?
 
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A skimmer cannot remove anything if there’s nothing to remove. My old tank was coral only and currently so is my upgrade so there wasn’t any fish food or fish waste. The skimmer was the one for that specific tank, it sat at fixed height and I ran it for over 6 months before deciding it wasn’t worth bothering with. A skimmer isn’t a necessity, numerous people run without one. It’s quite common on nano tanks not to use one.

I don’t see how detritus sitting in a canister for 7 days is any different to it sitting in the display for 7 days. I siphon any crap out of the display I can see and empty the canister. With my filter I turn it off, lift the flow lever to off and then lift the leaver that disconnects the intake and output. 2 handles release the head unit, the impeller is held in by one clip. The media are in trays with central handles so that it all lifts out in one go. It takes no time at all to clean.

There is no single way to run an aquarium of any kind. There’s a multitude of equipment options, media options, maintenance routines etc. Each of us finds what works for us.
Nothing to remove? I'm confused. If it's coral-only and you're not introducing protein (aminos, roids, etc), then you don't need filtration at all. Perhaps some carbon to remove any coral produced toxins. But there are thread after thread of coral-only surviving on either water changes or dosing with ATO.

Also, detritus won't sit in your display if you have proper flow eliminating dead spots and a clean up crew.
 
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Nothing to remove? I'm confused. If it's coral-only and you're not introducing protein (aminos, roids, etc), then you don't need filtration at all. Perhaps some carbon to remove any coral produced toxins. But there are thread after thread of coral-only surviving on either water changes or dosing with ATO.

Also, detritus won't sit in your display if you have proper flow eliminating dead spots and a clean up crew.

I’m not going to continue replying to you after this. This is my build thread, not a justification or argument thread. I’ll do things my way and you do things your way.
 
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Just a last update to say there won’t be any more updates as I won’t be participating in this forum anymore. I’ll stick to browsing as a guest.
 

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Huh? Some of us enjoyed your company and are still looking for updates!
 

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