What is this?

biggie4jets

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Hello everyone,

wondering what algae this is? Can’t get rid of it for months! Any suggestions?!

thanks so much!

015BD1DE-FDF3-4B06-89F6-A28978248EBA.jpeg F9D31639-2D33-49DB-A011-83342CBEB4C2.jpeg
 

vetteguy53081

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Its Cyano Bacteria
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.


After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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Recently just turned off lights for a few days and within a week it came back. Did water changes, comes back, used gfo (noticed an improvement) but didn’t want to keep relying on it.
What are your parameters? What test kits are you using?
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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Its Cyano Bacteria
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.


After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
@vetteguy53081 I had no idea your real name was Yuliya Ivanova!
 
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biggie4jets

biggie4jets

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What are your parameters? What test kits are you using?
I use Hanna checkers for everything and the last 2 times I tested phosphates with my phosphorus checker it was blinking 200 (which means it was over the reader limit) I just bought another test kit and some calibration solution to check if it’s out of whack.
My nitrates were .41 about a week ago.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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I use Hanna checkers for everything and the last 2 times I tested phosphates with my phosphorus checker it was blinking 200 (which means it was over the reader limit) I just bought another test kit and some calibration solution to check if it’s out of whack.
My nitrates were .41 about a week ago.
If your phos is so high, why did you remove the GFO? Seems like you thought it was working.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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How would have I gotten that though? Tanks not new by any means
Google and the search feature on R2R are your friends... (HINT- there are at least 2 sticky threads about dinos on this forum alone)

For anyone to really answer your question, we need ALL your current parameters, to start, and probably additional info along the way.
 

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