What should I expect from a new reef tank?

[arkodios]

After a lot of internal discussion, I’ve settled on using a Waterbox 20 Cube to make a small Ocellaris Clownfish reef tank. I don’t think I’ll be getting any other fish in there but maybe a Blood Red Fire Shrimp and I do want a Bubble Tip Anemone. Workers at my LFS said a 20 cube should be more than enough but I am hearing a lot of conflicting information. Regardless, my tank will probably not have a protein skimmer (at least for now) but I will use RO/DI water eventually. I’m planning on either purely using dry rock or maybe mostly dry rock with a few pounds of live rock since it’s so expensive and I have time. I’m planning on building my aquarium in ‘stages,’ with the first stage just being the basic setup with no fish, corals, or anemone— just the tank, 3-4” of aragonite sand, rock, and saltwater. The second stage will bring the heater, a test kit, and a light, where if conditions are right, I may add the fish. Third stage will be the purchase of an RO/DI system where I will slowly transition the tank into RO/DI water so I can introduce anemone and corals. The reason for these stages is simply I do not have a lot of money as I am already maintaining other tanks. Anyways, once I set up the tank, what should I expect? Meaning, I know many people have an ‘ugly phase.’ What’s the best way to make it go by smoothly, or even speed it up, if I don’t have anything living in the tank? How should I introduce corals and anemone? How can I be sure my tank is ready for the addition of fish? How should I set up my aquascape to best suit the fish and anemone? These are my main questions but if there is any other information I should be aware of feel free to say it.

 

[Obsessed with fish]

Hitch-hikers

 

[Wasabiroot]

I think you have a solid plan. Here are some things to consider:
-Rodi isn't an absolute necessity, but it definitely gives peace of mind. I'd highly recommend it as a sooner rather than later addition.
-Anemones are light loving creatures. Idk what the waterbox comes with but you may have to factor a lighting upgrade down the line. There are cheaper leds you can use that will be more than sufficient like the blackboxes or even T5.
-Nothing will happen as fast as you'd like it to. Patience will be key to success, even more so than freshwater.
-Anemones are less tolerant of pollutants than fish. It's possible to go skimmer less, but I would formulate a plan of nutrient export before you get the anemone.

Other than that, welcome and good luck! Once you have the tank, set up a build thread so we can see your progress and answer any questions you may have!

 

[davidcalgary29]

even speed it up,

Don't do this! You'll hear this a lot, but it bears repeating: you're going to have to be really, really patient. You'll gain nothing by rushing through the process, and you can absolutely ruin a great setup by trying to speed to the end goal.

I think you should consider buying an existing setup. There are usually tons of small Nemo Tanks for sale, everywhere, from people who have simply decided that it's not worth their time or interest. You can save a mint on overall costs and you'll come with a pre-cycled build. In addition, you won't have to worry about importing diseases if you're buying everything all at once. You may not get a Waterbox, but you'll likely find something equally nice -- for a much better price.

 

[Supa]

I would say get rodi water before starting or buy some premade salt water to start with from your LFS and auto top off to help with stable parameters anemones like stability as does everything else. Expect some ups and downs and be patient, enjoy your tank along the way

 

[Wasabiroot]

I would say get rodi water before starting or buy some premade salt water to start with from your LFS and auto top off to help with stable parameters anemones like stability as does everything else. Expect some ups and downs and be patient, enjoy your tank along the way

Good point. ATO are a huge quality of life improvement, even if to not have to worry about evaporation.

 

[FLReefer101]

If you have patience run the system with no lights and no inhabitants for four to six months with some type of bacteria. Add some clowns to the system to kick in the bacteria. After 4-6 months start your lights at less than half power for about four hours a day. Every month increase an hour until you reach your desired hours. I’ve done this twice starting systems and had zero ugly stage. Just my experience though and everyone’s is different.

 

[arkodios]

I think you have a solid plan. Here are some things to consider:
-Rodi isn't an absolute necessity, but it definitely gives peace of mind. I'd highly recommend it as a sooner rather than later addition.
-Anemones are light loving creatures. Idk what the waterbox comes with but you may have to factor a lighting upgrade down the line. There are cheaper leds you can use that will be more than sufficient like the blackboxes or even T5.
-Nothing will happen as fast as you'd like it to. Patience will be key to success, even more so than freshwater.
-Anemones are less tolerant of pollutants than fish. It's possible to go skimmer less, but I would formulate a plan of nutrient export before you get the anemone.

Other than that, welcome and good luck! Once you have the tank, set up a build thread so we can see your progress and answer any questions you may have!

Hmm okay so I’m thinking I’ll modify the list and get an RO/DI unit before I get anything living so nothing alive has to come in contact with tap water. I’m planning on using an AquaIllumination Prime 16HD. It’s very possible I will use a protein skimmer but the Waterbox 20 just has really limited space and I’ve heard a lot of people don’t use protein skimmers on smaller tanks because the main and most effective form of nutrient export is just water changes. Not sure if this counts but in my freshwater tanks I use 100 micron filter floss pads after the sponge and it traps a lot of small organic waste particles. I replace it every 2 or so weeks.

As for patience, after learning freshwater tanks, I can be patient. It’s just I know a lot of stages in aquariums can be helped move by faster if you provide optimal conditions. Meaning, when it comes to tank cycling, I can do things to the tank I wouldn’t even consider doing if I had live animals, such as raising the tank to 30C/86F, not doing water changes, ‘overfeeding,’ etc… This usually gives me a cycle in 2 weeks as opposed to 3-6 that seems to be the standard. I just don’t really understand what the ugly phase even is to begin with, just that new tanks get ugly for a certain period of time, I believe as the bacteria establishes and diatoms are present (?). If this is true, then maybe by providing more optimal conditions for whatever bacteria is necessary to grow, it would establish itself more thoroughly. That’s the way I’m thinking about this, not really rushing it and getting an imbalanced tank.

 

[Supa]

If you have patience run the system with no lights and no inhabitants for four to six months with some type of bacteria. Add some clowns to the system to kick in the bacteria. After 4-6 months start your lights at less than half power for about four hours a day. Every month increase an hour until you reach your desired hours. I’ve done this twice starting systems and had zero ugly stage. Just my experience though and everyone’s is different.

By zero ugly stages…. You avoided diatoms and GHA?

 

[arkodios]

I would say get rodi water before starting or buy some premade salt water to start with from your LFS and auto top off to help with stable parameters anemones like stability as does everything else. Expect some ups and downs and be patient, enjoy your tank along the way

I do want an auto top off system but to be honest I just don’t really understand how they work. On a sump I kind of understand but since in the Waterbox 20 the sump is integrated in the back, how could I fit an ATO with the small space?

 

[arkodios]

If you have patience run the system with no lights and no inhabitants for four to six months with some type of bacteria. Add some clowns to the system to kick in the bacteria. After 4-6 months start your lights at less than half power for about four hours a day. Every month increase an hour until you reach your desired hours. I’ve done this twice starting systems and had zero ugly stage. Just my experience though and everyone’s is different.

That’s something I will keep in mind. I have time. Would I have to do water changes during this time? If so, at what frequency/volume percent?

 

[Supa]

I do want an auto top off system but to be honest I just don’t really understand how they work. On a sump I kind of understand but since in the Waterbox 20 the sump is integrated in the back, how could I fit an ATO with the small space?

I’m not very sure with the smaller tanks…. I have seen people use ATO with AIO tanks…… I would have to loook into which would be best. I think the way to go is optical sensor. Don’t quote me though I would have to research a little more as to how to execute a good setup. But basically it’s just going to help you keep salinity in check as the water evaporates.

 

[jmichaelh7]

Get an RODI or you will* run into issues eventually

Auto top off is a game changer. Get those two

 

[Wasabiroot]

Hmm okay so I’m thinking I’ll modify the list and get an RO/DI unit before I get anything living so nothing alive has to come in contact with tap water. I’m planning on using an AquaIllumination Prime 16HD. It’s very possible I will use a protein skimmer but the Waterbox 20 just has really limited space and I’ve heard a lot of people don’t use protein skimmers on smaller tanks because the main and most effective form of nutrient export is just water changes. Not sure if this counts but in my freshwater tanks I use 100 micron filter floss pads after the sponge and it traps a lot of small organic waste particles. I replace it every 2 or so weeks.

As for patience, after learning freshwater tanks, I can be patient. It’s just I know a lot of stages in aquariums can be helped move by faster if you provide optimal conditions. Meaning, when it comes to tank cycling, I can do things to the tank I wouldn’t even consider doing if I had live animals, such as raising the tank to 30C/86F, not doing water changes, ‘overfeeding,’ etc… This usually gives me a cycle in 2 weeks as opposed to 3-6 that seems to be the standard. I just don’t really understand what the ugly phase even is to begin with, just that new tanks get ugly for a certain period of time, I believe as the bacteria establishes and diatoms are present (?). If this is true, then maybe by providing more optimal conditions for whatever bacteria is necessary to grow, it would establish itself more thoroughly. That’s the way I’m thinking about this, not really rushing it and getting an imbalanced tank.

It's the hundreds of species of microfauna - bacteria, algae, sponges, dinos, cnidarians, etc - all battling for their chance at real estate and capitalizing on the parameters. As time progresses and the environment stabilizes, one wins out and the dominant organism shifts. Eventually through stable parameters coralline starts to encrust.
AI 16 is a great light btw. I think you're fine skipping the skimmer until you have a larger bioload.

 

[Wasabiroot]

Yes. On a tank that small the ato will be a huge quality of life improvement because your salinity swings will be potentially larger. I don't like to preach any equipment as mandatory but for the cost it helps so much on a minor task letting you micromanage less.

 

[FLReefer101]

That’s something I will keep in mind. I have time. Would I have to do water changes during this time? If so, at what frequency/volume percent?

No water change. Just let it run it’s natural course.

By zero ugly stages…. You avoided diatoms and GHA?

I had zero in both my 180gallon and 300 gallon. I’m currently running my 300 gallon with lights on at 50% after 5 1/2 months and have no algae other than coralline starting to grow. I also dosed vibrant throughout the lights out stage. Lights have been on now for about 1 1/2 months running 4 xr15 radions.

 

[Wasabiroot]

I do want an auto top off system but to be honest I just don’t really understand how they work. On a sump I kind of understand but since in the Waterbox 20 the sump is integrated in the back, how could I fit an ATO with the small space?

Most are based on a sensor, but you could even go a more rudimentary route and have it trigger with a float switch.

 

[GHOSTLY]

Unstable parameters diatom and green algae, higher phosphate and nitrate but don't wuit since things look nice around 10 months

 

[Tbg299]

After a lot of internal discussion, I’ve settled on using a Waterbox 20 Cube to make a small Ocellaris Clownfish reef tank. I don’t think I’ll be getting any other fish in there but maybe a Blood Red Fire Shrimp and I do want a Bubble Tip Anemone. Workers at my LFS said a 20 cube should be more than enough but I am hearing a lot of conflicting information. Regardless, my tank will probably not have a protein skimmer (at least for now) but I will use RO/DI water eventually. I’m planning on either purely using dry rock or maybe mostly dry rock with a few pounds of live rock since it’s so expensive and I have time. I’m planning on building my aquarium in ‘stages,’ with the first stage just being the basic setup with no fish, corals, or anemone— just the tank, 3-4” of aragonite sand, rock, and saltwater. The second stage will bring the heater, a test kit, and a light, where if conditions are right, I may add the fish. Third stage will be the purchase of an RO/DI system where I will slowly transition the tank into RO/DI water so I can introduce anemone and corals. The reason for these stages is simply I do not have a lot of money as I am already maintaining other tanks. Anyways, once I set up the tank, what should I expect? Meaning, I know many people have an ‘ugly phase.’ What’s the best way to make it go by smoothly, or even speed it up, if I don’t have anything living in the tank? How should I introduce corals and anemone? How can I be sure my tank is ready for the addition of fish? How should I set up my aquascape to best suit the fish and anemone? These are my main questions but if there is any other information I should be aware of feel free to say it.

Murphy's Law. Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.

 

[gbroadbridge]

After a lot of internal discussion, I’ve settled on using a Waterbox 20 Cube to make a small Ocellaris Clownfish reef tank. I don’t think I’ll be getting any other fish in there but maybe a Blood Red Fire Shrimp and I do want a Bubble Tip Anemone. Workers at my LFS said a 20 cube should be more than enough but I am hearing a lot of conflicting information. Regardless, my tank will probably not have a protein skimmer (at least for now) but I will use RO/DI water eventually. I’m planning on either purely using dry rock or maybe mostly dry rock with a few pounds of live rock since it’s so expensive and I have time. I’m planning on building my aquarium in ‘stages,’ with the first stage just being the basic setup with no fish, corals, or anemone— just the tank, 3-4” of aragonite sand, rock, and saltwater. The second stage will bring the heater, a test kit, and a light, where if conditions are right, I may add the fish. Third stage will be the purchase of an RO/DI system where I will slowly transition the tank into RO/DI water so I can introduce anemone and corals. The reason for these stages is simply I do not have a lot of money as I am already maintaining other tanks. Anyways, once I set up the tank, what should I expect? Meaning, I know many people have an ‘ugly phase.’ What’s the best way to make it go by smoothly, or even speed it up, if I don’t have anything living in the tank? How should I introduce corals and anemone? How can I be sure my tank is ready for the addition of fish? How should I set up my aquascape to best suit the fish and anemone? These are my main questions but if there is any other information I should be aware of feel free to say it.

I would not be putting in a BTA for at least 6 months, maybe even 12.

they need a stable and mature system and there is a pretty steep learning curve.

there is nothing simple about running a successful reef tank and you simply cannot rush it.

go slow and be patient, you are simply not going to get a BTA hosting a clown fish in less than 6 months,