White stuff on zoanthid

dtruitt

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Sorry the image is blurry, my auto focus was focusing on microbubbles attached to the dipping container.
20200912_184448.jpg

I've done an iodine dip with no results on this polyp, and I just did a revive dip. I brushed a lot of the white stuff off. Doesnt look like nudis or spiders to me, and since it brushed off I wouldn't figure it to be pox. What might it be?

I've got furan-2 and bayer. Im thinking bayer next since I've seen a lot of isopods on this polyp.
 
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dtruitt

dtruitt

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The furan 2 can’t hurt. Seems like that’s most everyone’s go to. Let me know how it works!

F2 treatment certainly didn't make things worse.

I think Im going to do a FW+Peroxide dip and another F2 dip this evening to attack on all fronts as gently as possible.
 
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dtruitt

dtruitt

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I did 2 more rounds of F2 on consecutive days, and now I've been doing daily iodine dips at 40 drops / gallon for 15 minutes a pop. Polyp is still closed, but doesn't have the white nodules anymore. Baby polyp died. Advice appreciated.
 

vetteguy53081

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Try peroxide first which is milder
 
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dtruitt

dtruitt

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Try peroxide first which is milder

At what concentration? Everything I see online says "add peroxide until the zoanthids bubble."

I'm wondering how long I should allow the polyps to rest after 3 days of F2, 3 days of rest, then 3 or 4 consecutive days of heavy iodine dips. I don't want to wait too long and let the zoas perish due to whatever infection / condition is afflicting them, but I don't want to stress them to death, either.
 

vetteguy53081

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At what concentration? Everything I see online says "add peroxide until the zoanthids bubble."

I'm wondering how long I should allow the polyps to rest after 3 days of F2, 3 days of rest, then 3 or 4 consecutive days of heavy iodine dips. I don't want to wait too long and let the zoas perish due to whatever infection / condition is afflicting them, but I don't want to stress them to death, either.
Yes- Full concentration as it is made up mailnly of water
 

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