Yasha Goby Sunken Belly / Stringy Poo

keada714

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Having some concern about a Yasha Goby that I bought from the lfs a week ago. Gave it a day to get acclimated and then did a 6 hour prazipro bath and then into a copper power QT tank. Started it at 1.25ppm and raised it to 2.5ppm within a days.

It’s now been sitting in the QT tank for 5 days and I noticed it’s stomach have sunken and have had stringy poop for 3-4d now. I’m having a hard time getting it to eat frozen mysis shrimp. Earlier today, it took to brine shrimp but kept spitting it out. Finally I did see it take one down. This would be the first time I’ve seen it eaten.

I also noticing really erratic behavior when removing the cardboard and observing it. Almost seems like he is attaching the glass.

I’m thinking it’s just starving and a bit stressed out from the cooper power. Should I be treating for internal parasite at this time?


IMG_0663.jpeg

 
Having some concern about a Yasha Goby that I bought from the lfs a week ago. Gave it a day to get acclimated and then did a 6 hour prazipro bath and then into a copper power QT tank. Started it at 1.25ppm and raised it to 2.5ppm within a days.

It’s now been sitting in the QT tank for 5 days and I noticed it’s stomach have sunken and have had stringy poop for 3-4d now. I’m having a hard time getting it to eat frozen mysis shrimp. Earlier today, it took to brine shrimp but kept spitting it out. Finally I did see it take one down. This would be the first time I’ve seen it eaten.

I also noticing really erratic behavior when removing the cardboard and observing it. Almost seems like he is attaching the glass.

I’m thinking it’s just starving and a bit stressed out from the cooper power. Should I be treating for internal parasite at this time?


IMG_0663.jpeg

Stay w=ith brine and reduce mysis for now which causes excess mucus in the stomach lining and may be part of issuer as well as mimicing stringy white feces issue.
Also try small pellets and even flakes. Breathing and activity appears normal
 
I found that some of my fish really didn't like the bare bottom of my quarantine tank. I figured it was acting like a mirror and stressing them out. Since the tank was already full of water, covering the bottom with a very thin layer of sand really helped, and it didn't affect the copper levels much.
 
I found that some of my fish really didn't like the bare bottom of my quarantine tank. I figured it was acting like a mirror and stressing them out. Since the tank was already full of water, covering the bottom with a very thin layer of sand really helped, and it didn't affect the copper levels much.
Fish can indeed react to reflections in the glass. Something that has worked for me with freshwater breeding tanks and more recently with saltwater QT tanks is painting the underside of the bottom of the tank with Rustolium textured spray paint. When looking quickly at the tank, it really looks like a 'thin layer of sand'. There's even a color choice called "Caribbean Sand" 🙂

Rustolium Textured Spray Paint

I hope that helps!
 
I agree, the reflective bottom might be an issue here. You can try a layer of sand, or even lowering the light levels a bit. Make sure the fish has pleny of places to hide.

Mysids are probably too large. I've used single edge razor blades to cut them into smaller pieces. They are a much better food than brine shrimp in terms of calories and fat.

There may be some smaller frozen food items available to you - they used to sell frozen copepods....
 
Thanks!! I really appreciate the response.

The QT protocol I'm following requires 100% water changes every day 3 to keep ammonia down. This would also lead to discarding sand each time, resulting in increasing cost for reef specific sand. I'm researching silica sand would be sufficient and cheap enough at your local pool or Home depot.

With that said, i will probably just paint the bottom. Would painting the side and back glass be needed to further reduce reflection?
 
I have a watchman goby in quarantine right now, has been for 28 days. It has stayed with it's head jammed in the corner of the tank most of the time. I only see it eat if I about drop the food right on it's head. It will eat mysis, but not a bunch, it will eat pellets if I drop them in front of it's face. If I move back from the tank after I drop the food I see it more actively eating, particularly with the pellets as they stay right there in front of it. I put a plate of sand in the tank to go with the PVC, did not seem to matter. I will for sure be painting the bottom of the tank before I use it again. The sand I used dropped copper levels by about .2 or .3 at first, but that only lasted a day, just for reference, at least that is what the Hanna tester reported.
 
Thanks!! I really appreciate the response.

The QT protocol I'm following requires 100% water changes every day 3 to keep ammonia down. This would also lead to discarding sand each time, resulting in increasing cost for reef specific sand. I'm researching silica sand would be sufficient and cheap enough at your local pool or Home depot.

With that said, i will probably just paint the bottom. Would painting the side and back glass be needed to further reduce reflection?

I strongly prefer having an active biofilter in a quarantine tank in order to avoid those massive water changes. Those are rough on the fish, and sometimes, ammonia builds up to dangerous levels )above 0.5 ppm) in less than 3 days.

Silica sand can work, but I worry about using builders grade silica, it could have contaminants in it. For sure, rinse it well before use. Silica or other inert sand from a pet store is safer.
 
Silica sand can work, but I worry about using builders grade silica, it could have contaminants in it. For sure, rinse it well before use. Silica or other inert sand from a pet store is safer.
Swimming pool filter sand is much, much cleaner than play sands or certainly building stands. It's a very popular substrate for freshwater tanks.
 
Unfortunately the Yasha did not make it. Will try one more time using the hybrid TTM.

Sorry to hear.

I would avoid TTM with this species - super stressful for a cryptic species like this.

This could be a candidate for observational quarantine in a small, well established tank with lots of hiding places. 40 days at least.
 
Unfortunately I don’t have a spare eatablish tank.

Is TTM not recommended because of the consistent moving of the fish? Plan was to do it in larger plastic buckets vs clear tanks.
 
Unfortunately I don’t have a spare eatablish tank.

Is TTM not recommended because of the consistent moving of the fish? Plan was to do it in larger plastic buckets vs clear tanks.

Correct - TTM is rough on cryptic fish like these. Besides, even the hybrid method fails to control flukes.
 
Im going to include two prazipro treatments, 24hr before the tank changes. Will try the yasha once more since I already have a candy pistol shrimp waiting for it.
 

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