Zoa Colony Sick Help

vic91218

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Hey guys! I’ve had this little colony for about 8 months, and it was doing great up until about a month ago and has been slowly deteriorating since. Through this past month I’ve tried the multiple Furan dips, coral rx and chemiclean to no avail really. I’m wondering now, do I try to remove the dying polyps off this rock, or do I try to save and remove the healthy zoa’s and put them somewhere else? I’ve never fragged zoa’s and figured I’d ask here first, in case it’s not a good idea.

 
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dyerrm

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And what do you mean by sick? Dying? Are they melting or just not opening? It could be lighting, flow, not enough nutrients of some sort.

what’s your water parameters?

have you tried just a basic iodine dip? All those other dips seem pretty harsh.
 

footgal

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@dyerrm asked all the questions I need to know to help you. From the vid, they appear to just be closed, not actually dying. Sometimes they just close for a little while and open back up like nothing was ever wrong. I’d like to know exactly what treatments you performed and the time frame. For example, H2O2 dip 5 days ago for 2 minutes 1:1 ratio. Zoas often close for several days following treatments so if you’ve dipped them in the last week and they’re just closed (not melting) don’t freak out too much
 
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vic91218

vic91218

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You've mentioned a number of treatments, but you haven't mentioned why you tried those treatments.

Let's start with the basics. Please list your tank parameters. Thanks!

Hi T-J. Thanks for responding guys. I tried these treatments because using this forum, I found that these were recommended treatments for zoa’s that exhibited symptoms that were a lot like mine. I started slowly first with moving them away from my other zoa’s, and moving them up towards more flow and light. I noticed that some polyps that had moved themselves off this initial rock were doing fine and are still as you might can see from the photos. When no improvement was seen, I tried coral rx, checking for any parasites, and progressing through the other treatment options often suggested on the forum over time. Mine looked like they had a fungus or possible pox, and to me still do, as can maybe be seen in the video or photos. All my other corals seem alright?

As to tank details;
Biocube 32 (11 months old)
Steve’s LED’s (introduced Janruary 6th, at 30% acclimation) *The zoa’s had the problem prior to the Lighting change.

Jebao SW-4 and SW-2
In-take media basket with (filter floss, Purigen, phosguard, and chemipure elite)
Green Machine UV sterilizer

I’ve been using the Prodibio BioKit Reef for about 9 weeks every 15 days.

I change the water every two weeks using 4.4g Nutri SeaWater.

My other corals and zoa’s seem fine though I’ve attached photos of the tank. I really appreciate y’all’s help and this forum. I’m pretty new to the hobby.

Tank parameters;
Amonnia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0.25
PH 8.4
Salinity 1.026 or 1.027
Temp 78.4

 

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vic91218

vic91218

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@dyerrm asked all the questions I need to know to help you. From the vid, they appear to just be closed, not actually dying. Sometimes they just close for a little while and open back up like nothing was ever wrong. I’d like to know exactly what treatments you performed and the time frame. For example, H2O2 dip 5 days ago for 2 minutes 1:1 ratio. Zoas often close for several days following treatments so if you’ve dipped them in the last week and they’re just closed (not melting) don’t freak out too much
I appreciate it guys. I tried to answer some of these questions with my post above, but the last treatment I tried was Furan, and I did 20 minute dips three days in a row. The last dip was 7 days ago.
 

footgal

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I appreciate it guys. I tried to answer some of these questions with my post above, but the last treatment I tried was Furan, and I did 20 minute dips three days in a row. The last dip was 7 days ago.
Okay thank you, that really helps. Have you tried an H2O2 dip? From the vids and pics I think I see some greenish coloration which could be algae growth on the polyp due to it being closed for so long. I would try one and see if it opens a week after that.
 

dyerrm

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In addition to what at footgal said. I would also dip in iodine after the h202 and just place back in tank (no need to rinse) your nitrates are at .25? That’s pretty low. Shoot for 5. What about phosphates? Do you broadcast feed your corals anything? Do you dose the tank with anything? Also dosing iodide is great for zoas.
 
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vic91218

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Okay thank you, that really helps. Have you tried an H2O2 dip? From the vids and pics I think I see some greenish coloration which could be algae growth on the polyp due to it being closed for so long. I would try one and see if it opens a week after that.
Ok thank you!
 
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vic91218

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In addition to what at footgal said. I would also dip in iodine after the h202 and just place back in tank (no need to rinse) your nitrates are at .25? That’s pretty low. Shoot for 5. What about phosphates? Do you broadcast feed your corals anything? Do you dose the tank with anything? Also dosing iodide is great for zoas.
Hey thank you again! I need to get a phosphate test kit. :(

To safely raise nitrates, just feed a little more? I feed the fish once every other day. I rarely will use reefeoids but I almost never broadcast feed, and just lightly spot feed instead.

I didn’t really want to get into dosing as I’m not always home, so the Prodibio BioKit Reef system was recommended to me, and I’ve been using it every 15 days, for about 9 weeks. I started with the nano BioKit and worked up to this, but I wonder if this is too much for my biocube 32...
 

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vetteguy53081

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For zoa, they’re both hardy and moody. There are basic requirements for their happiness yet critical.
Moderate light and water flow in which placement plays a role.
Lower third of tank seems best,
The occasional addition of iodine and iodide is important for their growth and ability to develop their zooxanthele food source and coloration.
Too many dips using the wide variety you have will stress them much.
Flow towards them and not at them seems favorable. A diluted iodine dip seems to be their best response as is peroxide.

salinity 1.025
Ph 8.1-8.3
Temp. 77-79
Pho’s < .04
Nitrate < .05
Ammonia < .03

Assure mag and phosphate not elevated.

I had one similar to what you describe and 3 months later:
 

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vic91218

vic91218

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For zoa, they’re both hardy and moody. There are basic requirements for their happiness yet critical.
Moderate light and water flow in which placement plays a role.
Lower third of tank seems best,
The occasional addition of iodine and iodide is important for their growth and ability to develop their zooxanthele food source and coloration.
Too many dips using the wide variety you have will stress them much.
Flow towards them and not at them seems favorable. A diluted iodine dip seems to be their best response as is peroxide.

salinity 1.025
Ph 8.1-8.3
Temp. 77-79
Pho’s < .04
Nitrate < .05
Ammonia < .03

Assure mag and phosphate not elevated.

I had one similar to what you describe and 3 months later:
Man those are beautiful! Thank you for your response.

In regards to the iodine and peroxide dips; I live close to a drugstore but not an LFS. Can I pick these up at the drugstore, and if so... what dilutions would y’all recommend?

Ps.. I do have seachem reef dip, and someone told me that’s basically iodine but I dunno?
 
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DJF

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+1 for iodine dip (if you can remove). Simple 3% (over the counter) iodine at the consistency of ice tea. The softer the coral, the longer you can leave in iodine (anecdotal but seems right).

added note- be very careful dosing iodide to your tank- things can go south quick
 

dyerrm

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Iodide is easily taken up by corals vs iodine which the corals have to convert to iodide. This is why I recommend dosing iodide to the tank. You can got less than the recommended dosage. Iodide is dosed once per a week in my 75 gal tank.


As @vetteguy53081 to many dips to quick can stress your Zoa. I would leave them be until you get both the peroxide and iodine.

it can sometimes take zoas weeks to open back up after dipping. That’s based on personal experience.
 
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