Building an Alanle style dual stage CO2 regulator
- Thread starter Water Dog
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reefinnewb
Active Member
Thank you!Gorgeous build bro…. Nice job!
GarrettT
Well-Known Member
After the 1.25 turn, my metering valve was secured, but I did notice that with little pressure, I am still able to manipulate the valve a little to the right or left. Is this normal on a stem compression type fitting? I just didn't know how fixed it needed to be.
OP
OP
It’s fine as long as you completed your 1 - 1/4 turns (for 1/4” fittings) or a 3/4 turn (for 1/8” fittings). With the proper amount of turns, the tube is locked in and the ferrule is compressed against the mating surface to provide an airtight seal.
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malacoda
Valuable Member
Since the info and pics in this thread inspired me to put one together as well, thought I'd add a few pics of my rig to the mix...
In order to knock the cost down a bit ... AND to shorten the timeframe of my search for parts ... I was perfectly happy going with a brass set up rather than SS. (The metering valve is nickle-plated brass.)
Heck, I didn't even bother to polish it. It will be in my stand and I have no desire to show it off to visitors. So, I don't mind a few scuffs ... or tarnishing ... the least bit. Function and reliability are my only goal.
Here's the component list — in order from CO2 tank connection to outlet tube, in case it will help others to price out and source parts of their own (prices rounded up/down to nearest $1):
Filled CO2 tank (no empty to trade-in): $123
TOTAL: $397
If you're a patient, thrifty shopper, I'm sure some more $ can be shaved off a similar set up. I was trying to get it assembled in a 6-8 week time frame to have ready for when my Ca reactor arrives and was comfortable with this price for what I've put together, in the time I put it together.
In order to knock the cost down a bit ... AND to shorten the timeframe of my search for parts ... I was perfectly happy going with a brass set up rather than SS. (The metering valve is nickle-plated brass.)
Heck, I didn't even bother to polish it. It will be in my stand and I have no desire to show it off to visitors. So, I don't mind a few scuffs ... or tarnishing ... the least bit. Function and reliability are my only goal.
Here's the component list — in order from CO2 tank connection to outlet tube, in case it will help others to price out and source parts of their own (prices rounded up/down to nearest $1):
- CGA-320 nipple, nut & nylon washer set for CO2 tank connection (the reg. came with a CGA-520 for oxygen tank) — ebay, $14
- 1/4" female NPT x 1/4" male NPT adapter (to add a little extra horizontal length so gauge will not interfere with CO2 tank valve) — Grainger, $3
- Matheson dual-stage regulator model 3121-540 — ebay, $105
- 2" long hex nipple 1/4" MNPT x 1/4" FNPT — Grainger, $14
- 90 deg. reducing elbow 1/4" FNPT x 1/8" MNPT — Amazon, $5
- Burkert 6011 solenoid valve, 1/8" NPT, with 120VAC coil — used, eBay, $45
- 6' 18 AWG NEMA 5-15P to C13 Standard Power Cord (solenoid didn't have a power cord, so had to wire on a new one) — SFCable.com, $12
- Tube end adapter, 1/8" MPT x 1/4" tube size — Grainger, $7
- Swagelok B-4MG medium flow metering valve — used, eBay, $48
- front ferrules for the metering valve connections (didn't want to reuse the old ones) — qty 2, Grainger, $3 total
- back ferrules — qty 2, Grainger, $2 total
- tube end adapter, 1/4" MPT x 1/4" tube size — Grainger, $7
- female tub fitting connector, 1/4" tube fitting x 1/4" FNPT (ferrule set and ferrule nut not included) — eBay, $5
- front ferrule — qty 1, Grainger, $1.50
- back ferrule — qty 1, Grainger, $1
- ferrule nut — Grainger, $1.50
Filled CO2 tank (no empty to trade-in): $123
TOTAL: $397
If you're a patient, thrifty shopper, I'm sure some more $ can be shaved off a similar set up. I was trying to get it assembled in a 6-8 week time frame to have ready for when my Ca reactor arrives and was comfortable with this price for what I've put together, in the time I put it together.
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OP
OP
Nice photos and write up! Thanks for adding to this DIY thread. Everyone’s photos and build experiences are invaluable for the next person looking to build their own regulator.
GarrettT
Well-Known Member
During the 2nd stage leak test, I'm losing about 0.5 PSI every 9hrs. Is that acceptable? I'm unable to find the exact location as water/soap test won't bubble, likely due to the minimal amount.
I remember reading somewhere that a 1/8+/- difference over a 6 hour period was good, but wanted to check and see what y'all thought.
I remember reading somewhere that a 1/8+/- difference over a 6 hour period was good, but wanted to check and see what y'all thought.
OP
OP
I think that should be acceptable. Could be the internal diaphragm stretching out when you are closing it to isolate the CO2 on the working pressure side.
bettatail
Community Member
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bettatail
Community Member
Matheson 3810! this regulator is over $1000 when it is new, it is a rare find now a day and you are lucky.
it is fine the handle can be turned out, it is only the retaining washer inside the retaining nut has been damage, it doesn't affect the function of the regulator, just becareful not to turn out the handle then misplace it.
it is fine the handle can be turned out, it is only the retaining washer inside the retaining nut has been damage, it doesn't affect the function of the regulator, just becareful not to turn out the handle then misplace it.
bettatail
Community Member
by the way, check the regulator see if the working pressure hold, some times a handle been forcefully turned loose because the user wants to turn it off but it is not(working pressure keep creeping up), due to internal valve leaking problem.
I did open several matheson 3810 to fix the internal leak problem before, none of them have internal parts damage because of all stainless steel internal structure/parts, the leak problem was from internal valve assembly became loose from the valve seat, probably due to external vibration.
I did open several matheson 3810 to fix the internal leak problem before, none of them have internal parts damage because of all stainless steel internal structure/parts, the leak problem was from internal valve assembly became loose from the valve seat, probably due to external vibration.
GarrettT
Well-Known Member
I believe you might be right. The 2nd stage wouldn't hold pressure. After the 3rd attempt, I decided to remove the 60psi gauge, as I had a spare. The original thread looked slightly deformed (only the gauge not the regulator). It held pressure for 6 hours and lost about 2 psi. However, when I woke, the pressure was at 0 psi. I went to retest and it will no longer hold. This sound like an internal valve issue? How difficult is it to open and disassemble to access the internal structure?
biecacka
Valuable Member
I have always been envious of these beautiful regulators. Instead I just have some regular one that cost <$100 or so. I wish I knew how to acquire the parts for one of these as they work so much better at the end of the co2 tank. Albeit, I haven’t had issues with mine, but it would be nice to have a shiny easy to use one as well!!
corey
corey
OP
OP
eBay is your friend!
bettatail
Community Member
a 4 inch jaw heavy duty bench vise and a wrench big enough for the regulator body cap(front and back hex part), most of the regulators can be opened.
the internal structure is really simple, for stainless steel double stage regulators, valve seat and diaphragm seal leaks are the main cause for internal malfunction.
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