klondike4001
Community Member
Intensity(s)?These are all grown from frags, 100% under LED (ReefBreeders Photons).
Need more proof??
Schedule?
Height off the water?
Tank depth?
Number of fixtures to cover your footprint?
LEDs and Acropora...Please shed some light on this topic (urrghhhh...)
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Schedule?
Height off the water?
Tank depth?
Number of fixtures to cover your footprint?
lakeviewink
Well-Known Member
I. Blues max at 80%, I think, whites max 25 or 30%, it been a while since I looked so I'm not positive.
2.9am -11pm blues/ 11am-6pm whites(I think)
3. 8"
4. 27"
5. 2x Photon 24's. I just added 2 AI vegas to fill in the edges a bit.
To reiterate what has been said already, there are so many different combinations of spectrum, optics, etc but IME warm whites are important and uv also. Be careful to keep your uv intensity on the low side
lakeviewink
Well-Known Member
Thank you very much for your input! I just purchased a Photon 48 and would really appreciate knowing what % you do max out your white channel. I had set mine at 35%. Your results speak for themselves. Would you mind verifying your max white channel % and how many hours you have it at that percentage? Much appreciated!
klondike4001
Community Member
Thanks for the quick response!
lakeviewink
Well-Known Member
It maxes at 30% for 1.5 hrs. With and hour before and hour after at 25%. The rest of the time is ramping
gablett
Community Member
Seen this tan in person a couple times. Looks fantastic. Your the reason I gave LEDs a shot, just couldnt get them to work for me. After my crash a lot of the corals in my tank now came from his tank. Erik is a class act and a great person to talk with.
lakeviewink
Well-Known Member
Thanks a lot Gardner! It was your tank that inspired me to get into Acropora addiction! Touché
bklynreef
Active Member
People with leds need to realize there are two things that really put a wrench in to the system everytime they play around with it.
Blasting the leds when the corals arent adjusted at all to that type of light.
Playing around with different spectrums and not allowing the corals to adjust to a single mode.
These two are crucial and id say 100% of led failures in bleaching and browning if all parameters are spot on is the fault of the user. I shpuld know, I was the statistic. The leds were so new and no one really knew how to use them properly. Well 3 years later and I learned to respect these lights and to treat them ever so gently when doung anything.
Now I just set them at 20K and leave them at a low intensity until the corals feel acclimated to the new light sourse. All new coral go in to my frag tank for 4 weeks on an acclimatization mode until they get to 100% then I know they will be ready for the main tank. The frag tank had gen 1 radiins which is why I can get it to 100%. My main tank has pros which is much stronger which I keep at under 75% and I have a 36 in deep tank. Also I recently reaquascaped my tank and lowered all the live rock and corals because the pros were so strong and I needed that spread as well. This helps with the shadowing of not just the corals but live rock shadows. The flat landscape im noticing is healthier also since flow is streaming across it easier without large live rock pieces blocking the flow. On another note I worry and I was mislead also a while back when I read sanjay yoshi was blasting his leds at 100% so I figured hey what do I know, well I did find out the hard way. Bleached corals. It should have mentioned not to try this at. home at your own risk lol. Seriously though theres too much misinformation and sometimes its coming from the experts or were just misinterpreting it all.
Blasting the leds when the corals arent adjusted at all to that type of light.
Playing around with different spectrums and not allowing the corals to adjust to a single mode.
These two are crucial and id say 100% of led failures in bleaching and browning if all parameters are spot on is the fault of the user. I shpuld know, I was the statistic. The leds were so new and no one really knew how to use them properly. Well 3 years later and I learned to respect these lights and to treat them ever so gently when doung anything.
Now I just set them at 20K and leave them at a low intensity until the corals feel acclimated to the new light sourse. All new coral go in to my frag tank for 4 weeks on an acclimatization mode until they get to 100% then I know they will be ready for the main tank. The frag tank had gen 1 radiins which is why I can get it to 100%. My main tank has pros which is much stronger which I keep at under 75% and I have a 36 in deep tank. Also I recently reaquascaped my tank and lowered all the live rock and corals because the pros were so strong and I needed that spread as well. This helps with the shadowing of not just the corals but live rock shadows. The flat landscape im noticing is healthier also since flow is streaming across it easier without large live rock pieces blocking the flow. On another note I worry and I was mislead also a while back when I read sanjay yoshi was blasting his leds at 100% so I figured hey what do I know, well I did find out the hard way. Bleached corals. It should have mentioned not to try this at. home at your own risk lol. Seriously though theres too much misinformation and sometimes its coming from the experts or were just misinterpreting it all.
kstone2274
Active Member
Those are some beautiful pieces
Eckolancer
LED GURU
I've been using LEDs for almost 9 years now. For the first 7 I used DIY had great results. Now I will say that with DIY I would get color shifts that you are used to seeing with T5s. The last 1 and 1/2 years has been kessils. I noticed with kessils colors shifted back to T5 colorations. Now for growth speed I'm sure you know that stability is key here. Here is a pic of my sps tank before I sold some major colonies. All of them were bought as little 1/2 - 3" frags.
Last edited:
Eckolancer
LED GURU
Here is lighting schedule and intensity set by apex. Spectrum is deep blue 0% mid blue 20% low blue 40% low white 60% mid white 80% high white 100%. I have played with using the high white but fine that corals brown out a little but grow faster.
Harold Green
Well-Known Member
It's pretty obvious that no two led fixtures are the same. I set up my 210 last year with a mix of diy and ebay led's. For want of a par meter I'll say they had a total of 500 watts of light. Over the next eight months I saw little growth. Orange montis were declining and pulling back from the skeletons. I added another 500 watts of led's reducing the whites down to around 20% but leaving the blues at nearly 100%. Over the next three months montis have not only stopped declining but have more than doubled in size. Acro's are encrusting at a very fast rate although I haven't seen much branch growth yet. Just being completely honest. Mushrooms are a no go, even in the shade they are receiving too much light. Zoo's seem to do well on the sand bed except for those that are green or brown that I have to place in shadier locations. Brain corals remain open and are feeding and growing well. At this point I'm concentrating on keeping the water quality up and providing food to the tank daily. Colors look as good as they were on most frags when I received them with just a couple of exceptions. Green caps lost their green while green acros look fine. Since the caps lost their green during the less led phase I'm hopping the color will eventually return as they deal with the higher par. I think many of us are aware that it takes from several months to a year or more to run in a new tank to the level where it's successful. I'm afraid that using led's are at that stage now and it's going to be a trial and error to get it where you get the growth of other lighting systems. I'm encouraged by several lfs that run only led's on all their tanks now. For now I'll stick with my cheap led's but would consider changing them out for more advanced ones in the future if they prove to be worth the change.
Mmsetta
Active Member
I have the exact same lights over my 75. I think I'm frying my pociliapora's. I have my Toatronics about 6" up. Unfortunately that's where they have to stay due to a canopy. I haven't added acros yet. Where would you suggest I place my first Acro in this setup? Low, med, high?
Harold Green
Well-Known Member
I'd start them at the top with the whites turned way down but that's a guess. Try one cheap acro first and see how it fares.I have two pociliapora's and they look great but they both sit on the sand bed.
Harold Green
Well-Known Member
Acolotto that's pretty much the accepted practice and I agree with you but it really depends on how intense your lighting is. If the new frags were grown under mh or high intensity led's the sand bed may be too dim if your tank lights aren't that bright. So I would say it depends on the lighting you have, and the experience you have with other corals in the tank. Right now I have a nice acro growing on the sand bed that's doing so well I may leave it there for quite a while. At the same time I placed several new frags at the top of rockwork because I knew they could handle the amount of light I have and they have been growing and encrusting without me having to relocate them repeatedly. Now I'd like to ask for anyones experience with bleaching from led lighting with the whites turned way down. In other words do corals bleach under high levels of blue as easily as high levels of white.
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